Well, baisicly adjusting the torsions is either loosening them to lower the truck, or tightining them to lift it a little.

If you look at your lower control arms in relation to your frame, they should be parrellel. They shouldn't be at any real angle unless you have a lift.

I personally havnt run those tires but its commonly known around here (quite a few guys use them here) that 33x10.50" tires, on stock rims (rims that are wider and/or stick out farther than stock ruin your clearance) will clear with little if any trimming of the inner fender pinch weld.

You will notice that your truck is a little slower though...

 

i knew it would slow the truck down but seriously that much??? sry my main build is my camaro, i didnt think it would slow it down THAT much though, its already slow as hell, didnt think it would have made that much more difference.

 

If you already think its slow and your putting a 4" bracket lift on, you'll be in the 33-35" tire range, Its gunna be a slug. What motor and trans do you have?

 

v6 5spd,

 

You should be able to throw 42" swampers on there with minor trimming.... Make sure you have the 4.10 gears tho. Your stock cv's will be fine as long as you weld the front diff

 

Here's mine with 33x10.50's. I'd love 35's but I'm replacing my balljoints, tierods and Idler already after about a year of wheeling... 35's would abuse those parts even more.

In the pic you can see the kicker bars that go from the transmission mount to the LCA brackets. Those are the only difference between Stage I and II. Definitely go II though as I've read some bad threads about the brackets bending without them. (AxleIke i think)


Here's another so you can see fitment on level ground:

 

Hi folks, new to your fine forum here but not to forums in general.
I'm also new to Toyota owning, just picked up a 92 4Runner in exceptional condition and I really like it. What I want to do is set it up for some 33X12.5 (or 13.5s) and I'm wondering how much lift (& back space, trimming, etc.) I'll need for on/off road driving (no air time or rock crawling or anything like that). It has a V6/Auto drive train and the usual stock Toyota 'sag' in the rear. (coil springs on both ends) It has running boards which I'll likely remove. I've lifted an old half ton Ford in my younger days and I have a lifted 01 Dodge now so I'm not completely green at doing this, I'm just wondering if you guys can tell me what all I"ll be looking at doing before being able to slap some nice wheels & tires on this thing.

Thanks for any/all tips I can get.

 

See below for some basic information:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#FAQ10

 

thanks for the advice-we are all always shopping....

 

I've always found that, most of the time, the budget tires aren't the best in the end. But, you live and you learn.

And on that note, I would recommend the Nitto Mud Grapplers for a mud tire and shy away from BFG A/T's if you plan on seeing any mud

 

yeah +1 on the bfg a/t in the mud. they are an awesome tire, but i burried myself in some mud that wasnt even deep or that bad. if i wouldve had the bfg m/t it would've been all good.

 

 

I currently have BFG MT KMs, and they are great and all, but way too much road noise for my liking. My trucks is my DD before my trail rig, so when these wear I'll be getting some BFG A/Ts. And luckily we don't have much mud here in southern AZ.

 

I just got a set of the Duratracs after an enjoyable 4 years on my Nittos but I wanted something a little more agressive looking so hopefully these will treat me the same.

 

I thought the point of snow tires was to MAKE your truck stoppable...

 

I'm gonna go with 15x10's wrapped with 33x12.5.
I'm wondering about the backspacing. 3.75" or what?

 

do 8" with 3.75-4" bs look like they were made for each other I have 2 sets of 35 x 12.5 and they have 3.75and only stick out about 1" from fender wells

 

I've got 33-12.50-R15 tires on my stock rims, and they fit just fine. There are rubbing issues at lock, but that is mostly negated by a simple $85 1" body lift from 4Crawler.

 

It is really. I think the topic got a bit off topic. It would be foolish to say that a non winter tire is better than a dedicated winter tire for standard snow and ice conditions, especially when the temperature gets really cold.

The point of my original question was if the ATs will be able to handle those really cold temperatures, or will the rubber get too stiff. I know they can handle up to around -20 celsius, but can they really hold out once it gets to -40?

 

I think it is even more foolish to think that oe is better than another without actually trying them out. As I've already stated, I've had them all. In fact, just picked up some studded snows for my daily driver. Will I do the same for my Tacoma? No. Not necessary.

And having to repeat myself, the AT's are fine at that temp. My folks who live at 7k above sea level see -20 - -50 and are fine on AT's.