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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 02:40 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by RSR

The champion cooling CC50 radiator is probably the best you can buy:

https://www.google.com/search?q=cc+50+radiator

Pricing is probably less than OEM and about $100-150 more than the cheapest you can buy on ebay...
I dont deal with eBay parts. Never have never will.

That's a lot of cash for a rad. I was thinking of pulling on out of a yard. Pressure test it while I'm there also.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 05:59 PM
  #122  
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I really really really dis like kids. Especially bad kids who have no discipline in their life. Liars,cheats and thief's. I dislike parents who sit on their ass,collect welfare and do nothing to better there lives. I hate Mn who stay with a woman out of need for a place to stay,is bad role models for her kids and does nothing but smoke weed and bitch all day.

Sorry...we need a vent thread.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 06:38 PM
  #123  
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That's mW..I love the jump suit.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:04 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by theerroneouspenguin
Id like to pull ac as well. Not for the miniscule HP you gain,but because I just never use it...and it doesn't work.

Any advice?
I'd leave it on. Worst case, when you go to sell the truck it's there which might hold it's value. If you end up anywhere south of CO, you'd be stoked to have AC...

The lines and whatnot are super expensive. Most likely, you just need to replace the gaskets and evaporator, which is $50-75 in parts including coolant, versus $1000+ if you go to replace the compressor and lines too.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:11 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by theerroneouspenguin
Is there a way to stop the head gasket from blowing...or is that why we delete the crossover?
Originally Posted by theerroneouspenguin
I dont deal with eBay parts. Never have never will.

That's a lot of cash for a rad. I was thinking of pulling on out of a yard. Pressure test it while I'm there also.
Combining replies b/c related.

I find ebay to actually be more transparent than folks selling stuff on Amazon (not amazon itself but resellers on Amazon) and the like. If they screw customers w/ either shoddy products or mis-described products, their ratings tank and most sellers do whatever it takes to make the unhappy customer happy to save their rating...

On radiators, I'd never put a used radiator on my rig. If automatic, for pink slush alone (tendency of coolant and tranny fluid to mix as plastic separators age). And on principle due to even the best cleaned radiator likely introducing contaminates into your engine. Moreover, most wrecks damage the radiator and if the engine went and they junked the rig, the lack of regular maintenance undoubtedly included the radiator too.

To avoid HG issues, you want to keep your truck from overheating and also keep corrosion in your engine to a minimum. The crossover delete helps w/ the former while only running toyota coolant with distilled water and regular flushes will keep your block and radiator from corroding headgaskets and/or coolant system failures (some say cheaper zerex red is the same, your call) -- helping both. To prevent pink sludge and ensure that even in the harshest extremes your coolant system is cooling to the max is why I recommended the CC50.

Last edited by RSR; Nov 10, 2013 at 10:13 PM.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:11 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by RSR

I'd leave it on. Worst case, when you go to sell the truck it's there which might hold it's value. If you end up anywhere south of CO, you'd be stoked to have AC...

The lines and whatnot are super expensive. Most likely, you just need to replace the gaskets and evaporator, which is $50-75 in parts including coolant, versus $1000+ if you go to replace the compressor and lines too.
Sell....my.....truck? Yea,uh huh. Lol

I'm from the south originally and even there i didn't use it. True,it can suck but it's not that bad.
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Old Nov 10, 2013 | 10:15 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by RSR

Combining replies b/c related.

I find ebay to actually be more transparent than folks selling stuff on Amazon (not amazon itself but resellers on Amazon) and the like. If they screw customers w/ either shoddy products or mis-described products, their ratings tank and most sellers do whatever it takes to make the unhappy customer happy to save their rating...

On radiators, I'd never put a used radiator on my rig. If automatic, for pink slush alone (tendency of coolant and tranny fluid to mix as plastic separators age). And on principle due to even the best cleaned radiator likely introducing contaminates into your engine. Moreover, most wrecks damage the radiator and if the engine went and they junked the rig, the lack of regular maintenance undoubtedly included the radiator too.

To avoid HG issues, you want to keep your truck from overheating and also keep corrosion in your engine to a minimum. The crossover delete helps w/ the former while only running toyota coolant with distilled water and regular flushes will keep your block and radiator from corroding headgaskets and/or coolant system failures (some say cheaper zerex red is the same, your call) -- helping both. To prevent pink sludge and ensure that even in the harshest extremes your coolant system is cooling to the max is why I recommended the CC50.
Thank you for that info.

In regards to the actual gaskets...OEM only way to go?

And I'm rethinking a used rad. I just don't have the cash to drop on a new one.

Anyone need in HVAC work? Lol
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #128  
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Mine is a 5 speed also.

Need to at least repatch it or something. My funds are non existent right now. I'll get 60$ on Friday but I need a shock but need it more I think.

Might start to be feeling grinding going into third. Might just be he way I shift but the shift linkage is loose. Very loose I do believe. I think. Lol.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #129  
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Might be having a baby also.
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Old Nov 12, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #130  
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I'm wanting to pull some manual hubs off a yard truck. What all do I need? Like, just the hubs? Or any lines,sensors,etc etc.

Can leaf springs go in an ifs front end? Gonna do some research for that and see what's needed. Hmmm


Might have a union job also. Wifeight have one as well. Should be a good next week or so.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:24 AM
  #131  
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Found a tiny toggle switch under the dash........its not a kill switch. Flipped t and the truck started fine. Its a rats nest under the dash so its gonna be hard to find where it connects to.

I also have an alarm j want to pull. Its a Clifford unit. Its hooked up under the dash by my feet and has another unit under the hood. Can this be removed without screwing something up?
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:27 AM
  #132  
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Hope this uploads.

Edit: it didn't.

Last edited by theerroneouspenguin; Nov 13, 2013 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:30 AM
  #133  
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Here's the switch.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:49 AM
  #134  
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Here's the unit under the dash. Whenever it gets touched or bumped a red light comes on.
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Old Nov 13, 2013 | 11:50 AM
  #135  
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Sorry. Here it is.
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Old Nov 14, 2013 | 12:36 PM
  #136  
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Ohhhhhh snappppppppp. 4*4 works. Guess I didn't have it shifted right or something. But the light does come on. Its green!!!!!!
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 10:51 AM
  #137  
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Found something out today while cruising on the highway...I cruise at 65@3k. Doesn't that mean I have lower gears?
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 11:35 AM
  #138  
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Probably 4.10's thats about what I run at 65

87 4runner 22re 5speed *traded*
93 xtra-cab 22re 5speed
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 11:37 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by dswag
Probably 4.10's thats about what I run at 65

87 4runner 22re 5speed *traded*
93 xtra-cab 22re 5speed
That's what I thought I had. At least that's what the code on the vin tag says. I just didn't know since its had a bit of work done to it and I don't know what was done to it.
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 11:49 AM
  #140  
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at 65 mph, I am at 2800rpm . thats with a 5speed , stock factory size 225/75/15 tires with stock 410 gears
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