Thanks man. Got some snap on,matco and Mac tools stuff. Need to gather some cash.

 

Let me know if you got anything good!

 

What are you looking for? Its standard stuff. Box wrenches,1/2" socket wrenches,angel head wrenches,this long ass matco wrenches(which I love but I need metric)

Crafstman,snap on,matco,Mac tools is all that's in my tool box.

 

Pm me and I'll send out my number if you really wanna talk. Cash or trade. Just FYI.

 

Snap on 7/8s angel head wrench

Matco cr11 1/2" drive socket wrench

Mac 13/16 long long long wrench

Mac 11/16 regular length wrench

Craftsman 1/2" drive vl 44809 socket wrench

No sets but a crap ton of singles.

Do have sets of snap on and craftsman sockets but they are standard.

 

ES is fine for end links. I'd stick w/ more flexible OEM rubber for bar to bushing to bracket to frame connection though...

 

Yes, buying a junker 3.4 engine is definitely more affordable route. For ~$2500 you can buy a remanufactured engine, which might be the better route for but YMMV.

 

The 3.0 intake is restrictive. W/ the supra AFM, ensuring a cold air intake (like factory form, not drawing air from engine bay), the ISR delete, etc, you'll find that the 3.0 likes to rev. But if pushing your engine, you'll also want to install either headers or do the crossover delete to reduce heat/wear & tear on the engine and reduce chance of your headgasket or valve issues in #6 & #4 cylinders due to the crossover at the back of the engine bay. Also a good idea to at least do a catback too (most have reported increased mpg -- LC Engineering sells a kit for $400 that's from collector back, excluding cat; I'd recommend replacing from collector through cat with 2.5 pipe however and then joining into the 2.25 LC Engineering heavy gauge stainless mandrel bent exhaust post-cat for long term perfection, but the LC kit is far superior to stock and not much more than you'd pay a shop to do w/ aluminiumized lightweight crush bent exhaust pipe). A high flow metal core cat and/or test pipe is also worth considering, but probably not immediately essential -- about 1/4 of this exhaust gains are in cat, 1/4 in deleting the crossover (don't think much add'l gain in long tube headers over factory headers w/ new downpipes -- LC engineering sells their mandrel Y pipe for their headers by itself for $200 and it looks like a much better option than the crush bent crossover deletes that have been diyed), and 1/2 in the cat back...

 

So the ES are what...stiffer as opposed to OEM? Wander how much a set from a stealership would be. Hmmm.

Side note: just had a huge falling out with my family. At least I have my wife.

 

I'm gonna want this thing to breath amazing. Will also be doing an ADD delete once I can get the manual hubs.

Will also be doing headers and at least a full exhaust from headers back. Is a crossover delete only warrented with headers or could I do it now?

Whas the isr delete?

 

The benefit of manual Aisin hubs is that your front end drivetrain isn't rotating under normal, unlocked use (this saves 1-2 mpgs typically, and also reduces the frequency at which you'll have to replace your front axle boots -- typically every 2-3 years on these trucks w/o manual hubs, about $500 in labor plus $100 in parts for the pair if not DIYing). In inclement weather, you lock in the hubs so that you can activate the 4wd when needed.

You do not have to use manual hubs, but recognize that with the ADD delete your front diff, front driveshaft, and front axles will all be in operation when driving.

 

The 3.0 intake is restrictive. W/ the supra AFM, ensuring a cold air intake (like factory form, not drawing air from engine bay), the ISR delete, etc, you'll find that the 3.0 likes to rev. But if pushing your engine, you'll also want to install either headers or do the crossover delete. Also a good idea to at least do a catback too. A high flow metal core cat and/or test pipe is also worth considering (some have noted that deleting the cat on these trucks affects high speed hp however...).

 

Id like to pull ac as well. Not for the miniscule HP you gain,but because I just never use it...and it doesn't work.

Any advice?

 

Is there a way to stop the head gasket from blowing...or is that why we delete the crossover?

 

Sorry for the family drama.

ES are all polyurethane. They're more durable than OEM rubber -- takes poly longer to decay --, they're also stiffer, and and they also have a tendency to squeak if not lubricated (that's why you see those lubricating shackle bolts for the poly bushings, etc). Poly definitely makes sense in instances where running 35"+ tires that might overstress factory bushings in places like front control arm bushings, but ultimately it's a question of figuring out what's important to you.

Personally, I'd rather have a quieter setup and am fine with the 10-15 year lifespan of the factory rubber bushings...

 

I'm on 31" right now but will be going to 33".

My front driver sway bar end link bushing is what's bad. But its best to replace them all? Hell,my sway bar is rusted to ˟˟˟˟ so I might replace it also.

 

The champion cooling CC50 radiator is probably the best you can buy:

https://www.google.com/search?q=cc+50+radiator

Pricing is probably less than OEM and about $100-150 more than the cheapest you can buy on ebay...

 

Yeah, I'd do both sides on front at least. The rear one is less essential in my opinion (haven't driven a 4runner though so not sure how rear coil ride compares to truck leaf springs), but worth considering too.

I don't think your sway bar needs replaced. I'd say first remove your current end links, and then it's just two bolts on each of the two frame brackets to remove the bar. Get some sandpaper or steel brushes and clean it off. Likely just surface rust... Prime it, paint it, and consider using some of that rubberized undercoating on it to further protect. You'll want the paint to dry and harden a week or so probably before rubber undercoating...

 

I got 2 cans of the 3m stuff for free a while ago. Might need to use it.

 

You can do the crossover delete anytime. I think one down pipe from passenger side header is less likely to burn things up (as headers are known to do), but ideally, I'd like to ceramic coat my custom down pipes -- there's high temp ceramic paint that's better than nothing but not comparable to a true ceramic coat. Just make sure that you insulate and bend fuel and brake lines away where needed around your new down pipe. Also, make sure you tie your passenger exhaust crossover into your drivers side BEFORE the 02 sensor.

Just go to google and type, no quotes: "Site:yotatech.com search words"

It'll give you all the info you need -- both crossover delete and isr mod are covered extensively.

ISR removes some unnecessary bends in the intake and also moves the intake up from the driver side exhaust header which heats up the intake... ISR is the intake silencer removal by the way.