Thats alot of fuel. start here
https://www.google.com/#q=yota+tech+...xtra+fuel+tank


I love our site but the little search box kinda blows. I use google and type "yotatech" and then wahtever Im curious about. Works everytime.

Hope that helps with that.

 

Thanks for the info.

Would 33s fit? I'll cut a fender or get it rolled. But I don't want to.lol

 

This thread is all over the place, but these folks made tanks that install in spare tire locations. Same tanks as the Downey ones. Can google to find more info....

But they recently sold their fuel tank part of their business, so call the new guy for info, listed on the website: http://www.nwmp.com/

Also, these auxillary fuel tanks are CARB and DOT compliant I believe... Only issue w/ them is that rather than gravity fed to drain plug of factory tank, some have switched to an auxillary pump into top of factory tank to prevent lien from getting dislodged.

 

I know. Sorry about the random ness. I like other peoples opinions then I make decisions based on that.

Anyway. My 4*4 light doesn't come on. :/

Was informed my front shocks are to long for a 2" lift. I only assume I have a lift. How can I be able to tell 100%?

Will also be getting new sway bar bushings and maybe a new sway bar. Mine is rusted.

Sorry for random. Any suggestions?

 

Id like to pull the luck on the back gate. Mine is stuck locked for some reason. Does have a big dent right at the gate lock so that might be he issue. Lol


I'd like to just pull the lock but still have it latch. Any help?

 

The tip of my key just broke off in my ignition. Grrrr :/

 

Might be getting either the shocks I need or the ignition. I love this truck but ˟˟˟˟ it's a money pit so far.

 

Take off the big access panel on the inside of the gate. Only a couple screws hold it on. Then check out the mechanism inside, may just be that its caved in and keeping it from opening

87 4runner 22re 5speed *traded*
93 xtra-cab 22re 5speed

 

That sounds logical. Just what...beat the dent out? Lol. Then try it?

 

Haha yes thats exactly what I did. Mine is dented pretty bad and I just pulled that plate off and carefully fine tuned it with a 22oz. Estwing waffle head. Works like a champ now

87 4runner 22re 5speed *traded*
93 xtra-cab 22re 5speed

 

Sweet. I'll check it out. I've had it off and Pb blasted some of the mechanism but nothing helped. Lol

And I just so happen to have a 24ounce. Lol

 

Haha well the more metal you're slinging the better the end result. But Idk thats strange man hopefully you can get it figured out.

87 4runner 22re 5speed *traded*
93 xtra-cab 22re 5speed

 

The lock is just...stuck. Like,it barley moves. I fixed a spring that popped out,cleaned what I could. Couldn't move the actuator bars.

I was also trying it before I knew I had to lower the window to unlock? the back??

 

All 4Runners are made in Japan. It's the trucks where the distinction comes into play. Most, but not all, 4wd Trucks were made in Japan. The US 2wd pickup manufacture began a year or two prior to the 4wd US assembly. All next gen Tacomas and now the Tundras are US made as well. T100s are sort of like this gen pickups. US manufacture started in 1996 through 1998 when the Tundra was introduced -- the Tundra also being exclusively US made...

 

It really depends on 1) current state of your engine and 2) the end goals of your engine. You basically spend 1/2 to 3/4 of the 3.4 swap cost on a head gasket replacement, machine shop work, ancillary needed parts, and major timing belt, valves, water pump, etc service if you pay someone else for labor (costs ~cut in half if doing yourself and makes the 3.0 Hg job the more economical route). And with that $ you basically get the same engine as you had w/ all of its limitations. Spending a little more gets you an arguably more reliable engine, but most definitely gets you significant increases in power. You delete a lot of the vacuum components and replace them w/ electrical controllers, so you end up cleaning up the engine bay a little too. It's all about where you want to go. And the 3.4 swap is definitely more economical than modding the 3.0 for power.

Hope this helps.

 

For headlights, you have to remove the grille, which requires a thin, long flat screwdriver. You'll probably want to purchase the grille connectors as they're brittle and prone to breaking w/ advanced age. Covered the Hella H4 swap and the grille connectors part #s over in my H4 conversion thread.

And it definitely looks like you need to relax your torsion bars. Despite you rear being a little flat, it looks like your tbars have been cranked. Can't see in the pics, but it's possible you have mild ball joint spacers, but definitely think it looks more like tbars cranked to max -- not a good idea.

 

You need custom parts and it's probably easiest to buy.

See: http://www.offroadsolutions.com/tech...fe-conversion/
And: http://www.toyonlyswaps.com/Page_4.html

 

You're going to want to replace both your sway bar end link and sway bar bracket to frame bushings. Both of those are failing and brittle due to age. Both allows for greater flex (the frame bushings) and gives more support in cornering (the end link bushings).

 

I'm gonna get the energy suspension bushing kit for the sways.

Found an ignition and key for 30$. Woo hoo.

 

Rad the top link when i first got the truck. Seen a wrecked runner with a 3.4 for 1500$ on cl.