Do you have ADD hubs? If so, the front diff is vacuum controlled so a vacuum leak or failed control valve could allow your front diff to not lock in... (Pretty sure the electrical control in the front diff is what turns your 4wd light on).

Good news is that this is a low cost mod: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/

Bad news is that the manual hubs (which eliminate front drivetrain drag and improve mpgs and reduce wear and tear to front axles and are essential if a daily driver and going w/ the ADD delete) can be a $100 to $150...

 

22re bulletproofness is more myth than fact. 22r was more reliable.

The modern 4 cylinders only almost put out the same power of the 3vze. If you want power/performance equal to what you have now, the 3.0/3.4 is your best bet. With the 22r/re you're sacrificing power for a less congested engine bay, no plenum blocking access to half your engine, one head, and more aftermarket parts/support -- a big reason for that aftermarket though is unhappiness with power generated by the engine in stock form...

 

I have no idea. I just read the page. Would be interested in doing it.

 

I'd recommend Bilstein or Old Man Emu shocks. Bilstein being more rigid, OME allowing more flex. Generally speaking, if primarily road, Bilstein. If primarily offroad, OME. Definitely look at OME's steering stabilizer however. That's a great product onroad or off.

 

Im sitting in my truck smoking a cigerette. How can I tell if I have ADD?

 

Makes total sense. The 3.0 hasent been bad. Not fast but fits my life just fine.

 

Vacuum canister under passenger wheel well towards front? And inside of engine bay looks like this:
-Two vacuum controllers w/ vacuum lines (where dark caps are under lower line out of the vacuum canister).

Essentially, if you have 4wd and don't have the manual hubs, you therefore have the ADD system installed w/ standard, always locked hubs.

EDIT: Good read on hubs: http://4x4abc.com/4WD101/hubs.html

 

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/f...tem-19259.html

He talks about the types of hubs. I have the standard hubs that are always locked.

 

And its best to keep it locked? Like that one link you posted? I should just do away with it?

 

Got the gate to drop.

Had to move a pin to move it to unlock. Took a few minutes to get the paneling off,window down a bit and it dropped. Knocked the window off track a little but got it back on and up.

Works.

Have the metal panel off and just the carpet back on. At least we have a gate now.

Is there a way to just delete the lock all together? Cause with my key I can't unlock any doors anyway so why have the gate locked?

 

And my rad is cracked.

 

Do I have to use the manual hubs? I'm already pulling crap milage. Lol

 

Nice rig man! I've had my yota for 2 years now and I love it.
I plan on doing the ADD delete as well, Aisin sells some great Manuel hubs that I hear are better then the warn ons! Anything to get better MPG's! Sub. To thread!

 

Thanks for the heads up. I'm looking the hubs up now but I see them in different sizes. I've seen a 26 spline and a 30 spline. How do I know what I need?

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_kw=toyota+hubs+aisin

 

Normally IFS are 26 spline and SFA are 30, I believe. Don't quote me on that but I did some research and that what I found.

 

Makes sense. Thanks.

 

No problem buddy! Be sure to post pics and keep us updated on the build!

 

Its gonna be slow. I'm gonna have to put a lot of cash into it and I have no job. Lol

Time to sell some stuff

 

Are there any standard bolts or anything on the yotas? I'm used to metric and have a crap ton of standard stuff I don't need.

Anything I should keep?

 

Pretty much no, metic is the only thing I ever use, keep it off you ever plan on working on anything domestic. I work at a Hyundai dealership and never use standard, on any of the imports that is.