Me and you both.

 

well...i think my bearing seized. it sounds like..hmmm...ummm...metal on metal coming from my drivers side. it makes the noise as the wheel turns. can get to 15mph but thats it.

it hasent moved in 4 days. it got to -10 or some ˟˟˟˟ a few of those days. could it have seized due to the cold and maybe with some heat or something it will un seize??

 

there is some vibration under my feet. it makes the noise as the tire spins. sounds like 2 noises per rotation. gonna have to try to get a video of the noise cause i know it'll help.

the vibration is more under my left foot. cluth in or out does not matter.

4*4 will not engage.

 

im on rock auto now...whats a good brand for the axle? i dont want this thing to crap out soon.

 

i guess i'll just being getting everything.

will be ordering new bearings and cv axles.

 

How are the rubber bushings, are the sway links shot too?

 

sway links are shot. only one side in actually connected.

 

Gutter Gitter Fixed, B4U Runner Agin, Penguin!

Even Goose Grease won't Quiet worn CV's.

 

ok..heres what i'm thinking of ordering. will be ordering tomorrow.


TIMKEN SET47
Wheel Bearing and Race Set; Includes Cup and Cone
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...895&cc=1272327

CARDONE SELECT Part # 665009
http://www.cardone.com/Products/Prod...=665009&p=rock

Both are from rockauto.

Will those bearings work? Mine is a 90 4runner. Hell, I hope thats even the problem. lol. Still need to find the axle socket also. lol

 

No, but it makes a hellava fried potato.

 

Trucks still running. Stutters sometimes. Cel kicks on for a minute and it runs like crap. Usually dies now when it comes on. Drops idle to 3-500 then dies. Starts back up but dies again. Starts and drives.

Shocks are blown. I bottom out on all 4 now. The fronts sound bad. Metal on metal. The top part that holds the shock on is coming off. Both sides .

Radiator has a crack in it. What jb weld would work for a rad? Its plastic up top.

Heat works good so I guess that's a plus. Lol. So does 4*4.

No smoke either.

 

Shutting down could be a number of things,but I'd start with your air and spark sensors/electronics and check w/ a multimeter per the FSM and then move on from there... Vacuum leak is another possibility.

Shocks replace w/ cheap as better than nothing, or save up and go w/ bilsteins or old man emus (former stiffer + on highway, latter softer + for offroad -- both top quality).

JB Weld might work. However, if you have an auto replace radiator in entirety to avoid ruining your tranny w/ pink slush. Champion Cooling's CC50 looks like the best option for our trucks.

If you have a manual, you can get by with your current and/or a cheaper replacement. Replacement ensures you have optimum cooling -- wouldn't hurt to flush your block... And then refill w/ Toyota red and distilled water at 50/50. But any aluminum core and entirely aluminum beats the cheaper plastic options for not a lot of $.

Oh, and remove and flush your factory oil cooler too if you have one of those installed. They have accumulated and hold a lot of crap... And without flushing are likely a point of restriction for both your oil and coolant systems.

 

Have a manual. Will check specs when I get in the truck. Just spent 4$ on a multi meter. Glad I did.

Everything else is pretty much on hold. No funds at the moment. Might have a job at Buckley air base by idk yet.

Thank you for the input.