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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 11:53 AM
  #141  
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From: Boulder, CO
Originally Posted by 85toy4runner
at 65 mph, I am at 2800rpm . thats with a 5speed , stock factory size 225/75/15 tires with stock 410 gears
Im on 31" and at 65 I'm at 3100k rpm. 5 speed.
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 06:20 PM
  #142  
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At 65 I'm at 2800 with 4.56 gears! But I'm auto
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Old Nov 15, 2013 | 06:25 PM
  #143  
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From: Boulder, CO
Originally Posted by thafluffinato
At 65 I'm at 2800 with 4.56 gears! But I'm auto
So what does that mean for me?
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 06:29 PM
  #144  
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From: sammamish, wa.
The automatic transmission have a different axel gear ratio than the 5 speeds from the factory. I think...

Someone will know for sure
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Old Nov 16, 2013 | 07:04 PM
  #145  
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From what I've seen all the 5 speeds have 4.10 and the autos have 4.56, I'm guess because of the extra gears the manuals have.
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 02:41 PM
  #146  
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From: Boulder, CO
My cel has been coming on more and more.

When it does come on, I do get a lose in power. Idle will drop to about 500 if im at a stop. Don't really notice a lose of power if I'm driving and it comes on. Happens most of the time in 3rd.
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Old Nov 17, 2013 | 03:36 PM
  #147  
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Side note.

Picked up eminems new cd. MMLP2. Its not bad at all to be honest.

Hey...anyone have any off road lights they can let go for cheap? The truck is wired up for them just don't have any. Lol. Previous owner said thy sucked so he took em off.
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Old Nov 20, 2013 | 10:27 AM
  #148  
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Well. Have finally decided what my first purchase is gonna be for the yota. A windshield. Mine is so cracked all over I can't go on the highway for fear of it shattering. It creaked and pops a lot. Lol

Found one at the local yard for 75$.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 08:41 AM
  #149  
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4*4 works. Got a few inches last night and it's still snowing. Took it a and while to actually kick in, but it did. And I think it takes just as long to turn off. Lol

Is there a specific sequence to turn 4*4 off? Or do I just park, put in neutral and put it back in 2h? Cause my light stays on. Idk.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 04:49 PM
  #150  
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From: Boulder, CO
4*4 makes a noise when going above 30 in 4h. Can't really describe it but it sounds like a grinding.

Also, it doesn't help with this slick ˟˟˟˟. I was still sliding all over the place.
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 08:33 PM
  #151  
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From: sammamish, wa.
Have you checked you fluid level in you T-case and front diff as well. I have noticed those 2 items seem to be more neglected than others
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Old Nov 21, 2013 | 08:34 PM
  #152  
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From: Boulder, CO
Originally Posted by thefishguy77
Have you checked you fluid level in you T-case and front diff as well. I have noticed those 2 items seem to be more neglected than others
I....don't know how. Nor do I have the fluid to put back in it. Don't thy have to be drained to check?
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 06:38 AM
  #153  
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No there is a drain hole and a fill hole. FYI always get the fill hole plug out first. It would suck to pop the drain hole just to find out the fill hole plug is stuck. And when you pull the fill hole plug out you should see a little fluid start to ease out if not carefully insert you finger. Watching for sharp metal (ouch). And feel for fluid. If none found you probably found your problem. If the fluid is hammered you probably found you problem. Those are you best case scenarios for a easy to diagnose problem

Good luck
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 06:41 AM
  #154  
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From: Boulder, CO
Originally Posted by thefishguy77
No there is a drain hole and a fill hole. FYI always get the fill hole plug out first. It would suck to pop the drain hole just to find out the fill hole plug is stuck. And when you pull the fill hole plug out you should see a little fluid start to ease out if not carefully insert you finger. Watching for sharp metal (ouch). And feel for fluid. If none found you probably found your problem. If the fluid is hammered you probably found you problem. Those are you best case scenarios for a easy to diagnose problem

Good luck
How would I tell if the fluid is shot?
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 06:49 AM
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If it looks or smells burnt I guess is how I would describe it. Similar to motor oil it starts out pretty and comes out nasty. But even if it toast and low just getting the fluid level up to where it needs to be would be a short term bandaid. The front diff fluid should be cheaper that the t case fluid. I think. Don't quote me on that I just woke up.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 06:51 AM
  #156  
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From: Boulder, CO
Originally Posted by thefishguy77
If it looks or smells burnt I guess is how I would describe it. Similar to motor oil it starts out pretty and comes out nasty. But even if it toast and low just getting the fluid level up to where it needs to be would be a short term bandaid. The front diff fluid should be cheaper that the t case fluid. I think. Don't quote me on that I just woke up.
Im just waking up too. Lol

Thanks for the info. I'll check it today.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 07:11 AM
  #157  
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Any help with 4*4 no engaging or disengaging in a reasonable amount of time?

I just started my truck,i moved it to 2h and its still in 4#4.
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 07:14 AM
  #158  
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From: sammamish, wa.
Try backing it up or driving forward maybe the gears need to disengage. Just an idea. Bty is it an add or manual front end?
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by thefishguy77
Try backing it up or driving forward maybe the gears need to disengage. Just an idea. Bty is it an add or manual front end?
ADD. I'm gonna by some manual hubs soonish. But yea. I just drove to the store and it down disengage. So I'm heeping it in 4h. I gotta cruise the highway today so I'm gonna need it to shut off at some time soon. Lol
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Old Nov 22, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #160  
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It did not disengage. Few typos in the reply.
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