Lifting 94 runner
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#9
Those are cut from .5" steel and they expect you to stack up to three of them for a total of 1.5". The 2.5-3" total lift they are talking about comes from cranking the torsion bars after installing the spacers.
I would avoid cranking the torsion bars if you install BJ spacers;
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...l#post51908588
I would avoid cranking the torsion bars if you install BJ spacers;
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...l#post51908588
#10
Sure. You can always turn down the front a bit to match. Im sure your CVS will like that.
Edit: This ad?
http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/4256451315.html
They are not 3" spacers, they just provide 3" worth of lift.
I dont like the fact that they are 3 - 1/2 pieces bolted together. Thats putting too much stress on the bolts holding the spacers on. Should really get one solid chunk or at least weld the pieces together.
Edit: This ad?
http://eugene.craigslist.org/pts/4256451315.html
They are not 3" spacers, they just provide 3" worth of lift.
I dont like the fact that they are 3 - 1/2 pieces bolted together. Thats putting too much stress on the bolts holding the spacers on. Should really get one solid chunk or at least weld the pieces together.
Last edited by rattlewagon; Jan 15, 2014 at 11:16 AM.
#11
If you're dead set on BJ spacers, I have a set of solid aluminum 1.5" spacers laying around that I'll sell ya for $50. I would personally avoid them altogether but it's up to you.
Last edited by BMcEL; Jan 15, 2014 at 11:24 AM.
#14
Not necessarily. Check out the link I posted above. The idea is to keep your tie rods relatively level to the relay rod to avoid bending/breaking the idler arm and accelerated wear on the rest of the steering components. If you install BJ spacers and/or crank the torsion bars too much, you'll have nothing but problems with the steering components and possibly the CV axles.
I found a used bracket lift on Craigslist a few years ago for $200 so I went that route but I also don't do any hardcore rock crawling or need insane amounts of flex. The main reasons I haven't gone SAS are because I like the IFS ride and don't want to cut up my truck.
I found a used bracket lift on Craigslist a few years ago for $200 so I went that route but I also don't do any hardcore rock crawling or need insane amounts of flex. The main reasons I haven't gone SAS are because I like the IFS ride and don't want to cut up my truck.
#15
2" will most likely not level it enough as the older 4Runners typically suffer from butt-sag. I would replace the coils with at least new factory height/length, if not a little taller. Also, make sure you get a panhard bar drop bracket and a brake lspv bracket
Last edited by toyota4x4907; Jan 15, 2014 at 05:17 PM.
#16
Stacking those spacers 3 high looks really unsafe. " YOU CAN STACK THEM UP TO THREE HIGH BETWEEN YOUR UPPER A-ARM AND UPPER BALL JOINT TO GET 2.5-3" OF LIFT ". This guy obviously doesn't know what he's talking about.
First, stacking them instead of having just one solid piece puts too much stress on the bolts, as rattlewagon said.
Second, he says "1 SPACER = ABOUT 1" OF LIFT". I thought they were made out of 1/2" thick steel? Idiot. He doesn't say anything about torsion adjustment. Also, he says he offers diff drops, but doesn't say anything about needing a diff drop. You think he would say "you'll need a diff drop for X amount of lift" or something like that.
Third, I wouldn't buy anything from someone who types in all caps like that.
First, stacking them instead of having just one solid piece puts too much stress on the bolts, as rattlewagon said.
Second, he says "1 SPACER = ABOUT 1" OF LIFT". I thought they were made out of 1/2" thick steel? Idiot. He doesn't say anything about torsion adjustment. Also, he says he offers diff drops, but doesn't say anything about needing a diff drop. You think he would say "you'll need a diff drop for X amount of lift" or something like that.
Third, I wouldn't buy anything from someone who types in all caps like that.
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