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Intermitting hard starts and bad mpg.

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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 07:35 AM
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Intermitting hard starts and bad mpg.

Ok so I have a 1985 4runner 22re 5speed. I've had it for about 3k miles. It's completely stock with 300k miles other than 30/9.50r15 at tires. Sometimes it would be hard to crank so after reading 4crawlers info, I jumped the fuel pump test and that seemed to fix my problem. I usually got 19.5 mpg. With 235/75r15 street tires on factory wheels. I then put 30/9.50r15 at tires on the factory wheels and started getting 15-16.5 mpg and just figured it was from increase in tire size but I am again having hard start problems. Almost always when cold but also sometimes when hot. It usually takes about 2-3 minutes after starting for it to idle properly. Like it's not running on all cylinders. Once it warms up it runs great. When going uphil under a load in 3rd or 4th gear it will occasionally miss for about a second like you switched off the power and imediately switched it back on. It doesn't seem like it's loosing fuel because it is running fine then instantly jumps like it looses power then imediately goes back to running normally and it doesn't do that in 5th gear. I haven't done anything but replace the clutch and clutch hydraulics and alternator. Would these symptoms suggest I just need to change plugs, wires, cap, and rotor or should I look else where?
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 12:53 PM
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From: sammamish, wa.
If you have not done a full tune up on it yet now is a good time. Also do the fuel filter. It's a pita but most people never change them. Also have you jumper the diagnostic port to check the codes? Intermittent issues can be a pain. Hopefully someone on here has solved this before and it will be quick.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 12:47 PM
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Ok. I replaced the fuel filter plugs wires cap and rotor and it runs much better but is still hard to start when cold. I omhed the cold start injector and time switch and they both are in spec.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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From: sammamish, wa.
Did you check it for codes? That will tell you where to look?

Edit. Link to diagnostic port jumper wire

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...394&styleid=53

Last edited by thefishguy77; Apr 17, 2014 at 02:21 PM.
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Old Apr 17, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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Yea there aren't any codes either.
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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From: sammamish, wa.
Have you ran a can or two of seafoam through it?
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Old Apr 18, 2014 | 07:30 PM
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From: Mobile, Alabama
Originally Posted by thefishguy77
Have you ran a can or two of seafoam through it?
Do this^^ taking the throttle body off and cleaning it wouldn't be a bad idea either.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 12:41 AM
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From: Anderson Missouri
If it is real cold, the Cold Start Injector Time Switch could be bad. It is the brown sensor just under/in front of the thermostat. I don't remember what the temp is for it to kick in. Also your Circuit Opening Relay can get weak and cause a slow start. It is located behind the passenger speaker cover.

I have seen the injector connectors on these get bad. With it idling, try gently tugging and pushing on the connectors and see if that causes any idle changes or misses. My need to use a pair of needle nose pliers or a wooden dowel.

Another issue I see that causes problems is in the injector wiring harness. Two injectors share the same wire. One is a blue wire and one is a yellow wire. Toyota uses a poorly designed crimp to combine the two injectors wiring together. If you look at my 86 runner build below, on the last page or recent post, today I just removed the crimps and soldered the wires together.

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Here is where I removed the crimp on the yellow wire. The blue wire runs two other injectors.
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Here is the two ground wires that all come together. I wasnt sure I could get all 4 soldered together so just cleaned them up and re wrapped them.
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Here is the small little crimps in the harness. A poor design and is just wrapped with electrical tape from the factory.
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Last edited by Terrys87; Apr 19, 2014 at 12:44 AM.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 03:33 AM
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It runs like a champ now. Just the cold start. I need to investigate the circuit opening relay. It will even be hard to start at 75 degrees if the engine has sat. So I'm pretty confident it isn't the csi system. And since there are no idle, running issues what so ever, that leads me to believe it isn't a injector harness issue. But I will deff check that out too. While trying to crank when cold, it spins over several times just like there is no gas and then it starts to sounds like a Diesel engine that's trying to crank when it had air in the fuel system. This totals probably 15 seconds. Then it runs fine. Thanks for the replys. I will post back if I come up with anything.
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Old Apr 19, 2014 | 07:04 AM
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I copied this from 4crawler: "Besides the fuel pump, the CO relay also feeds power to the heater coil in the auxiliary/idle air valve (at least on the earlier 22REs). The coil heats up inside the valve and causes it to close off the extra air used to warm up the engine from a cold start." I haven't been able to find any more info on this heater coil. From what I understand, if the COR is giving you trouble on a cold start, you jump the fuel pump and if it works, then that's it. But I had already jumped my fuel pump so that leads me to believe the heater that 4crawler mentioned might be at fault but I'm not sure where it is to check it.
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Old Apr 23, 2014 | 03:45 AM
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So I let the 4Runner sit for a day and drove my tacoma to work. The next day I got in the 4runner and it cranked right up but it also picked up the thing where it idles up and down from about 1000-1200 when the brake is pressed and if just the clutch is in or it's in nuetral, it stays about 1200rpm. And now it's back to the hard starts. Does both of the problems suggest anything to you all or is it strictly coincedintal?
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Old Apr 24, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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From: Springfield, Orygun
Originally Posted by JasonYota
Do this^^ taking the throttle body off and cleaning it wouldn't be a bad idea either.
This, and your first post, about the cutting out on acceleration and load, make me think it's time to check out your TB. I had a similar cutting out issue. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...916&styleid=53
Also, the hard starting is probably cold start injector/time switch related. I've begun having a similar issue, usually after warming up then shutting down for 45minutes to an hour. Stumbles n farts, finally starts up, and smells rich when it does. Unplugging CSI fixes problem, at least appears to. Just haven't had time or cash to get on it yet.
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