So im going to be putting a 3" body lift on my 87 Toyota pickup along with 3" ball joint spacers and 4" packs in the rear with relocated shocks and u-bolt flip and all that junk.

But on the body lift. What kind of problems can I expect to run into? Lowering the radiator is no big deal. But what about shifters? and brake lines? Im also going to have to redo all my exhaust hangers. But if there are any other problems that may occur please let me know.

 

you sure you wanna do a 3" ball joint spacer? thats going to put your cvs a steep angle.

 

3" ball joint spacers is way out of spec. with spacers like that your truck would be underivable.

Secondly sounds like you are not quite sure what your getting into with the general questions you are asking.

Thirdly why are you wanting a body lift if you are planing to raise the suspension by 3"?

Posting your plans and expectations would be vary helpful for us to answer your question properly.

If my remarks seem rude in any way, it is not meant to be. I just get to the point. We all get a kick out of helping a fellow YT'er.

 

the only thing that I didnt like about my 3 inch body lift is the lowered shifters. you will get used to it, mine pops out of 4 lo and its very annoying. so annoying I took the whole shifter assembly and boot off.

 

What size tires are you planning on running?
I can fit 35s on my '95 4runner with only a 2" body lift. Have a little rub, but they fit. 33s are perfect.
If you are wanting to run bigger tires, you will probably need to regear the differentials.

Oh... What other problems with a body lift? The steering shaft needs to be adjusted.
The shifters can be remedied simply by cutting them and extending them with like angle iron or some tubing that you can weld onto them.

Brake lines may or may not need to be adjusted. Its possible to just uncoil some of the coiled sections up front, but you shouldnt take too much out.

 

So true ,I wouldn't do the body lift

 

[QUOTE=RogueYota;51695257]So im going to be putting a 3" body lift on my 87 Toyota pickup along with 3" ball joint spacers [/QUOTE

 

Your putting on 4" springs and a ubolt flip in the rear?! Even if you were to somehow align your front end with 3" BJ spacers you would STILL be riding like 5" higher in the rear?

I would recommend a few more hours of searching before investing any money into this project because you are headed down the wrong path....

 

Agreed. Unless you spend lots of time at the mall.

 

Meh, if it was me I'd avoid the body lift and just go with 6" BJ spacers up front and a 6" block in the rear..........












Kidding, just kidding. Best bet is to decide what you want to do with the rig, tire size, how you want it to perform etc. Let us know those things and we'll be better able to advise you.


Example 1: If you want to run 33's and cruise the mall then get a 2" body lift and you're done. Then you can spend the rest of your money on chrome, speakers and some bitchin' 20" wheels for your 33's.

Example 2: If you want to run 33's and take it off-road..... well that will involve a little more than just a lift although it does require a lot less chrome and fewer speakers.

Welcome to YT!

 

I've got as of right now 33 x 12.5's on my 87 and no BJ yet a little hammering and they clear just fine with a 1" t-bar crank, although left no room for droop. But will clear lock to lock and full stuff. 2" springs and 6" (1.25" lift) shackles out back and I am raked a little. The spring and shackle combo lifted me about 2-3" over the stock flat springs. Can't give a definitive answer as 3" total lift was achieved out back with a tire size change from worn out 31's to almost full tread 33's.

 

If you have to ask how much lift, you haven't done enough research.

3" Body Lifts are hidious, you'll regret this later.
3" ball joint spacers will send your CV joints to the depths of hell
4" leaf packs? why do you need this much lift?

 

do they even make 3" ball joint spacers? 1.5" spacer can yield 2.5" max lift with 1" added t-bar crank. With the BJ spacers in there assuming stock droop bump stops and not low profile ones the cv's will be fine especially with a 2" diff drop kit. Unless he adds that 3" body lift to clear 35's with very little hammering, then the cv's regardless of travel I would think would be at risk. Not to mention steering components.

 

Well I Appreciate the input guys. Idk what I was thinkin lol I have decided to be patient and buy everything I need to do an SAS and lift my truck the right way over time. Im giving myself till the end of the summer to get it done as I am not loaded and need to buy my parts over time.

I think I just got over excited about wanting to clear bigger tires and be able to go further offroad. So im going to do this the right way. Thinkin about 4" packs on 35's with 4.88's. Or rears up front. idk yet.

Anymore input you guys have please feel free to post it.

 

Just run a 2in BL and 33's until you feel you need more
and cut the IFS off.

here is my rig with 2 in BL and 33x12.5s

Works great.

 

if your gonna run 35s and do an SAS, get the 4 inch kit from allprooffroad.com, then do chevy 63s in the back. simple as that.

 

You can address all those issues, shifter extensions, short throw kits, drive train lift, etc. all will make the shifters work just like normal. Mine, w/ 3" body lift, work as well, if not better than stock. So that is blaming a poor result on the type of lift instead of an incomplete installation. Same can be true of any type of lift:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...tml#Aesthetics

 

I am leaving it as is now. drivetrain lift as soon as I can afford a budbuilt skid.

 

Ok so I figured out EXACTLY how im going to do this. Im going to run my leaf springs from the rear and put them up front and add a few leafs cause it will be way too soft by them selves. For the rear I picked up a pair of rear leaf springs out of a F150. Im using a trailgear spring hanger and allpro shock hoops. Also gunna use Hy-steer from trailgrear. So yeah thats what ima do now. If anyone has info the wish to share please do.

 

Take your shifter boot, slide it back about 2", and use self tapping screws to screw it back on. Problem solved!