How much lift should I get?
#42
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Hey man! U should be just fine with the 4'' inch bracket lift and 35s. Worse case scenario u might rub a lil' bit but thats an easy fix. U can still add the 1.5'' ball joint spacers up front and i would spend the money on a set of full 6 inch leaf packs for the rear; I hear deaver makes the best packs money can buy or skyjacker and superlift are other options, definately a better choice than the blocks that come with the lift kit - IMHO. Or maybe just a 1 or 2 inch body lift with the 4 inch suspension and you would clear no problem; Roger Brown makes the best body lifts for our toys and are around $150 shipped. I know my rig is a different body style completely but as for ifs front end, i run the rough country bracket lift on my runner, have been for over five years now and only have had to replace the idler arm twice, once my fault, the other, wear and tear. I do only run a 33 as well but am planning on going bigger someday here, for now tho, i love my set up and it has never left me stranded on the trail. Here in southern Oregon we do a lil' bit of all wheeling and I DO use my rig so thats my .02 for ya, good luck and have fun doing it!
#45
Registered User
yea don't let the web wheelers scare you away from the bracket lifts...if they were such crap, then why does a whole crap ton of people run them????
IMHO though you should get the pro-comp stage two lift. it's better.
IMHO though you should get the pro-comp stage two lift. it's better.
#47
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#48
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Auto trans, comes with the crossmember needed and the right diff drop brackets and everything. Don't get me wrong guys, I too would love to straight axle this rig but for what she is I wouldn't trade or sell her for the world. I've literally had this thing on it's side in a 5 foot rut and then on top and the only thing to break believe it or not was the linkages to the rear axle! Yes the bracket didn't move, never bent a thing in fact, alignment is the main issue, just don't go around booney bashing it and you'll be fine. Also not using the bumpstop extensions will GREATLY increase up travel or u can buy low pro's. Hope that helps man
#49
Registered User
With a 4" bracket lift you really should be running 35's. With the added top heavyness of the bracket lift you'll need the extra weight on the bottom anyway.
I'll keep my BJ/33" combo I want to run. If I wasn't worried about busting a cv, I would just go low profile droop stops and keep my t-bars cranked for now. But I have yet to wheel it with the t-bar cranked by 1" and the 33's, so what do I know.
Also, if your worried about doing a little pounding on the pinch welds etc etc to clear 33's on stock suspension, and this isn't directed in no one particular, but maybe you shouldn't be wheeling your truck and stick to the mall parking lots. Nothing wrong with that BTW. I have a friend of mine here and next time I see her, I have to get a photo of her Tacoma that is sitting on 35's and it doesn't see 1 ounce of dirt off-road.
P.S. running with no bump stop extensions and a bracket lift IMO is an idiotic move. Unless you want to bust CV's every other time you go out in some nasty stuff. Yes staying off the skinny pedal helps, but there are times you just have to use the power of the truck. And those types of spots are where you WILL break CV's. And if your running that way and haven't broken a CV, then your not in anything that you need the bracket lift to begin with.
But then again, people who have seen me wheel my truck, know I know when and when not to use my gas pedal. In other words, lifts of any sort should not be used to compensate for driver's lack of ability. Especially those that considerably raise the center of gravity of the truck.
I'll keep my BJ/33" combo I want to run. If I wasn't worried about busting a cv, I would just go low profile droop stops and keep my t-bars cranked for now. But I have yet to wheel it with the t-bar cranked by 1" and the 33's, so what do I know.
Also, if your worried about doing a little pounding on the pinch welds etc etc to clear 33's on stock suspension, and this isn't directed in no one particular, but maybe you shouldn't be wheeling your truck and stick to the mall parking lots. Nothing wrong with that BTW. I have a friend of mine here and next time I see her, I have to get a photo of her Tacoma that is sitting on 35's and it doesn't see 1 ounce of dirt off-road.
P.S. running with no bump stop extensions and a bracket lift IMO is an idiotic move. Unless you want to bust CV's every other time you go out in some nasty stuff. Yes staying off the skinny pedal helps, but there are times you just have to use the power of the truck. And those types of spots are where you WILL break CV's. And if your running that way and haven't broken a CV, then your not in anything that you need the bracket lift to begin with.
But then again, people who have seen me wheel my truck, know I know when and when not to use my gas pedal. In other words, lifts of any sort should not be used to compensate for driver's lack of ability. Especially those that considerably raise the center of gravity of the truck.
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 04-18-2011 at 06:48 AM.
#50
Registered User
#51
Registered User
Junkers88, I can see how that conclusion can come about. I used to think the same thing. But it's usually driver error in that he's in some stuff that just overwhelms factory suspension and the truck "feels" top heavy. But that really has nothing to do with the body lift. Unless the body lift is on the truck with nylon bolts and rubber spacers. lol.
By driver error see my previous comment about lifts of any sort are not meant to compensate for driver ability.
By driver error see my previous comment about lifts of any sort are not meant to compensate for driver ability.
#52
Registered User
xxxtreme22r, I was being a little sarcastic there. It's hard to convey that in text. I have heard folks complain about body lifts but have never had any issues with them. It's like anything else, install it properly and you won't have any problems.
#55
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Join Date: Jun 2010
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Well i heard body lift can catch fire easier and they are wobbly...
you know like the body isn't connected and its just moving around the frame.
i also heard that body lifts are more expensive than bracket lifts.
And bracket lifts are teh best thing you could do to a truck!
Don't give advice if you yourself dont know what your talking about...
And dont get me wrong i have nothing against bracket lifts.
i just think a BJ spacer and BL would be more cost effective
and you'll get more from it.
But a 6 inch with 33s? COME ON. i see guys running 35s and 37s with the 4 inch bracket lift
you know like the body isn't connected and its just moving around the frame.
i also heard that body lifts are more expensive than bracket lifts.
And bracket lifts are teh best thing you could do to a truck!
Don't give advice if you yourself dont know what your talking about...
And dont get me wrong i have nothing against bracket lifts.
i just think a BJ spacer and BL would be more cost effective
and you'll get more from it.
But a 6 inch with 33s? COME ON. i see guys running 35s and 37s with the 4 inch bracket lift
Last edited by BoredOutnJackdUp; 04-18-2011 at 09:43 AM.
#57
Registered User
Oh.... I guess that depends on several factors. Never used a bracket lift since I could never afford one but I do hear that they are pretty darn neat.
Just an FYI I'm pretty much kidding about the first 4 replies, just keeping it light and fun here in the YT world.
#58
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Yeah i figured
And the advice comment was more directed to people saying that about body lifts
with zero facts or even instances to back it up!
99% of the post was sarcasm.
I think i just woke up on the wrong side of the bed this morning.
And the advice comment was more directed to people saying that about body lifts
with zero facts or even instances to back it up!
99% of the post was sarcasm.
I think i just woke up on the wrong side of the bed this morning.
#59
Registered User
#60
Registered User
Thread Starter
Hey man! U should be just fine with the 4'' inch bracket lift and 35s. Worse case scenario u might rub a lil' bit but thats an easy fix. U can still add the 1.5'' ball joint spacers up front and i would spend the money on a set of full 6 inch leaf packs for the rear; I hear deaver makes the best packs money can buy or skyjacker and superlift are other options, definately a better choice than the blocks that come with the lift kit - IMHO. Or maybe just a 1 or 2 inch body lift with the 4 inch suspension and you would clear no problem; Roger Brown makes the best body lifts for our toys and are around $150 shipped. I know my rig is a different body style completely but as for ifs front end, i run the rough country bracket lift on my runner, have been for over five years now and only have had to replace the idler arm twice, once my fault, the other, wear and tear. I do only run a 33 as well but am planning on going bigger someday here, for now tho, i love my set up and it has never left me stranded on the trail. Here in southern Oregon we do a lil' bit of all wheeling and I DO use my rig so thats my .02 for ya, good luck and have fun doing it!