Bj spacer
#1
Bj spacer
Thinking about bj spacer up front on my pickup, I've searched around and haven't found anything on my question. Would I be able to run just the bj spacer up front with no lift in the rear? Or will it eat up my cv's? I want the front end to sit higher in the front like a pre-runner, if anyone can help me out that would be great....
#2
Yes, you can run them up front with no lift in the rear.
After you install the spacers you can set it at the height you desire. You can go up or preferably down by adjusting your T-Bars. I would not adjust your T-Bars all the way up with the BJ Spacers installed.
If you have manual hubs I wouldn't worry about your cv's.
These spacers were designed to provide more travel (not lift) with IFS. Down travel that is.
After you install the spacers you can set it at the height you desire. You can go up or preferably down by adjusting your T-Bars. I would not adjust your T-Bars all the way up with the BJ Spacers installed.
If you have manual hubs I wouldn't worry about your cv's.
These spacers were designed to provide more travel (not lift) with IFS. Down travel that is.
Last edited by BeMiceElf; Feb 1, 2012 at 01:19 PM.
#3
You can use them without rear mods, however it would make more sense to raise both front and rear. In IFS trucks, the rear flexs a whole lot more than the front, but whatever floats your boat.
When installing tall BJ spacers, it is recommended to us a differential drop bracket so your CVs aren't binding, however this isn't completely necessary depending on height of spacer.
Read this here: http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BallJointSpacer.shtml
Torsion bar cranking, as Hunt suggested, is a fine option if looks is what you're after. It's also a free option. However, cranking the torsion bars results in a stiffer ride.
Try searching next time
When installing tall BJ spacers, it is recommended to us a differential drop bracket so your CVs aren't binding, however this isn't completely necessary depending on height of spacer.
Read this here: http://4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/BallJointSpacer.shtml
Torsion bar cranking, as Hunt suggested, is a fine option if looks is what you're after. It's also a free option. However, cranking the torsion bars results in a stiffer ride.
Try searching next time
Last edited by 93Xtra-Cab; Feb 1, 2012 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Hunt beat me to it
#5
Kind of a noob question, but I guess that can fly in here since this is the noob section, but can you crank the torsion bars up with bj spacers? I know you can crank them down to get the same height but softer ride, but I've never heard of anyone cranking them up, that's why I ask
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#9
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...owTo.shtml#4WD
The issue is the stamped metal surrounds the ball joint and that metal drops straight down. The ball joint is mounted at an angle and when you add the spacer in there, it pushes the ball joint into the outer stamped metal part and if it is in the way, either trim it back enough to fit the ball joint into or some folks have been able to hammer it back enough for clearance.
The second issue is depending on the wheel/tire combo, you may need a small wheel spacer (like 1/4") to let the tire clear the UCA/ball joint:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#BackSpacing
#11
It is pretty simple, if you find you have the stamped sheet metal in the way, you'll know it. And how much to cut? Enough to get the ball joint back in place. And it is not structural metal you are trimming, it is just some excess metal left from the stamping process. On the 2WD control arms, the ball joint basically hangs off the end of the UCA with nothing around it and those need no trimming.
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