so its a good thing i got 3inch?

 

It is almost impossible to go too big of an exhaust for a turbo car. It can be done but it is not real practical at all.

 

ok well then ill get the rest of the exhaust system done to 3inch and not send the 3inch down pipe back.

 

Yes, it wont hurt and it'll give you room if/when you grow

 

Ya I just don't know how in the Hell its gone fit under my car. I tryed to upload a pic but even after I got it with in size it failed

 

Use an image hosting site like photobucket

 

I don't have one I was think of trying to link to my fb

 

Well the dyno results are in @10:1 afr's I made 102hp and 158ftlbs and then I leaned it out some got it down to 11.3:1 afr's and hit 106hp and 153ftlbs not very happy !!!!! Last trip was 110hp and 125ftlbs at 15:1afrs

 

Create a photo bucket. 15:1 afrs!?!? Your motor wont be a motor much longer that lean. Are you even making boost?? Thats near stock re-t power. And where is timing cause at that power it sounds like you might need to call search and rescue to find it

 

It use to be15 afrs befor I put the 22ret injectors and ecu. No I haven't installed the turbo set up that's still n/a !

 

What u mean I need to call a search and rescue team for my timing ? Timing is 4 degrees higher then stock cam is 2degrees retarded.

 

BTW those numbers are to the ground not fly so times by 25% to get fly numbers

 

Unless you are auto 25% is WAY too much drivetrain loss, more like 15-20% tops. Either way I only care about the wheel numbers anyways.

Post up the before/after dyno sheets and the changes to the tune/car.

If you leaned it out and lost power then something is wrong, either your gas is truly junk gas and can't handle the compression or the tune is wrong. Most likely the tune, there is a lot more to tuning then just adjusting AFR's.

 

I leaned it out and gained horse power and lost tourque that will always happen. Through out what I said about running 15afrs that was months ago. And 25% is right when dynoing in third gear 20-15% is 4rh gear where ur sapose to dyno for less drive train loss but uti doesn't want cars going over 115 on the dyno which my car hits 122 and 160 in 4th so can do a 4th gear pull there. And I know there is. But at 10 afrs to 11.3 is still to rich the motors boging on it self at that afr. Not that my car sounded that way it was such a nice clear crisp rev(music to my ears) should fog with some nos lol.

 

25% is way too high no matter what for your car. Even 4wd Auto trucks like mine are not that high. My truck is rated at 200hp at the flywheel, in stock trim they put down about ~165whp to the wheels. That is about 17% drivetrain loss on a 4wd automatic truck. Also about right from other official tests I have seen.

The drivetrain losses also don't change much for different gears, I dynoed in 3rd and 4th gear in my MR2 and the numbers were darn near identical. Only difference was the extra load caused slightly higher boost in 4th.

All of it is beside the point though since wheel HP is all that matters.

Far as the tune goes, with an old school Carb you are correct, you had to give up one thing or another but with modern EFI, this is not the case at all.

Leaning it out will NOT always cause a gain HP and loss of torque. That is bad tuning if it does. You tune each load cell to the optimum power, thus you get the best low end power and the best top end. If you are loosing low end then stop leaning out the load cells that are loosing power, they obviously don't like it.

If the top end likes it then keep leaning it out. There is no need at all to have the AFR's or timing be consistent all the way across, got to see what the motor wants. Sounds like the rest of the tune needs help, did you even adjust the timing? It sounds like it is off but impossible to know without at least seeing the dynos.

Same goes for timing, adjust each load cell till you see what it likes the best. Sounds like there is still power to be had unless you are just octane limited due to the 91oct, which is possible.

 

I done have a away of tunning it what don't u and s13 don't get about stock 22ret ecu? I cant advance the timing any more its already 40wot so yes i could of changed the cam timing but again this was just a run to get some numbers of what it made befor turboing it and to seevif the 22ret ecu and injectors fix my lean problems i had befor. 1

 

Still for not doing anything but backing off the fuel via the afm. 106 HP and 158 ftlbs ant to bad for a little ported head 170 cfm from the stock 102 and a lc efi pro which is so tight of a lobe center and is to agressive for the factory ecu so as long a the turbo set up only help HP ill be happy its already a blast to drive.

 

Well I figured since you said you leaned it out that you were able to tune it. You never said how you were "tuning it".

If you are using the AFM for tuning and the timing is at 40 degrees, I would try manually setting the distributor retarded a few degrees as that seems like a lot of timing and would explain the results. Toyota tends to tune the cars around a lot of timing and really rich AFR's.

You will need a standalone before going turbo for sure though, that tune will kill the motor quick with a turbo bolted on.

 

Why would it kill it ? That's why I though I would get water meth. And a 22re will only advance 28degrees from base when going turbo was just gone set it at 2 base

 

The water/meth is an octane booster, it helps keep everything in tact and knock at bay, it is not a miracle worker.

That tune sounds like it needs some serious help and 40 degrees of timing is going to be WAY too much for boost on a high compression motor. Sounds like it is too much for it even NA.

Even 28 degrees will most likely be too much, at the very least I would swap to a complete RET setup or better yet get the megasquirt before going turbo.