Ok, so I checked it out and I'm not being limited by the overload stopping the leaf pack from flexing more. I think it might be from my EOM rear shocks. How big should I be upgrading to if I don;t have a lift, but need more movement back there.

I bough a pair of Rancho RS5000, expecting them to be a little longer and they extend to the same length and my stock rear shocks. So what I'm trying to say is, I don't really know who to proceed. I don't have a lift kit so I'm not sure how big of a shock I could buy before it's limiting me on the compression side of things because it's too long.

Any helps from the pros would be greatly appreciated. Learning curves suck! haha

 

Two measure ments are needed to get the correct length shock.

1--length from eye to eye with the Runner on level ground.

2-- Maximum expected extended length. With the wheel dropped as far as it will go, get another eye/eye measurement.

example -- If the shock measures with an extended length of 24 inches then find a shock with an extended length of 24 or 25 inches. That should do it.
Shock charts can be found online Google.com

 

Zuk you threw me curveball here, as far as the collapsed length goes. You said eye to eye with it sitting level, I thought that measurement was taken at full stuff?

 

You're right...absolute maximum stuff is very important....probably the most important. I was thinking that full stuff is also a hard measurement for most to come up with. Full extension is an easy number to come up with because all you have to do is jack up the rear with a Hi-lift and get the wheels to come off the ground. Full compression is a bit trickier but I guess it is possible by finding the right drainage ditch and hitting it diagonally....or placing bricks under kitty-corner wheels.
Shocks should not be used as "limiter straps" or compression bump stops. Shocks are more likely to survive when they are used in full extension mode...but they don't take kindly to the compression mode. I ruined a set of Bilsteins because the original lift packs were sagged out and the shocks collapsed fully a few times and that killed them. My coils now prevent that from ever happening again.
With the ZUK coils on, it's fairly easy figuring the maximum compression it might see. By measuring the eye/eye length and knowing that the coils turn into a "brick" at 4.75"~5" length, one can figure the desired collapsed length of the shock.
In short, a little thought with math needs to be done to get the "just right" shock....and having a shock chart is nice too.

 

Here's one of the shock charts I referenced....Bilsteins are not cheap but I have been spoiled for what they do to my "control" of lean and ride qual.
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/site/bilstein_5125.cfm

....and here's where I found the best price on them....2 for 141 out the door...free shipping and a $10 discount for ordering 2 of them.

http://www.ajusa.com/browse/Shock-Ab...Struts/251/0/0

 

thanks ZUK, I have also seen people use what you had said about truck sitting level measurement and then subtract the measurements for the upper and lower bump stops and the subract a small amount for bump stop squish. Maybe a half inch or so.

BTW none of my current measurements are matching anything as far as all of the recommendations I have seen on 4crawler etc etc for the fronts. WHat's really odd in my case is without BJ spacers and roughly a 1" crank I am getting 12in and 17 in. And that's with what is supposed to be a stock height shock in there as well. PC ES3000. I know the t-bar crank wont "open up" the travel and thus the 5" travel amount will stay the same but what seems to be the consensus, is that a 10 X 15" shock is used with a 2" lift.

But this is neither here nor there as it has nothing to do with the ZUK rear. So I'll leave it at that. More info is in my build thread a few pages from the end.