V6 oil cooler
#2
Flex-a-lite makes some quality components...https://www.flex-a-lite.com/transmis...l-coolers.html
If the cooler's fins are destroyed, you'll likely want to install a new one.
Eliminating the cooler is not the optimal move IMHO.
Cheers
If the cooler's fins are destroyed, you'll likely want to install a new one.
Eliminating the cooler is not the optimal move IMHO.
Cheers
#3
Hey this engine oil cooler is mounted to engine block it’s purpose besides engine oil cooling is relocating oil filter. Bottom end of engine blew so cooler is full of filings don’t want to eliminate it but new from Toyota is~$1500 looking for other fixes thanks
#4
https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...571035030.html
A lot less than $1500 (remember to add shipping from Florida).
My '94 does NOT have the oil cooler. Someone smarter than me might know why some have it, some don't. Mine is 4wd (though "just" a pickup), so I would think I would need an oil cooler as much as anyone.
A lot less than $1500 (remember to add shipping from Florida).
My '94 does NOT have the oil cooler. Someone smarter than me might know why some have it, some don't. Mine is 4wd (though "just" a pickup), so I would think I would need an oil cooler as much as anyone.
#6
Interesting, my '93 3VZ DOES have one, also just an extra cab 4x4 pickup. My JDM 5VZ I just picked up just has a cap where the oil cooler would be. I was wondering how important it really is, since the 3VZ one looks like it would swap over without much hassle.
#7
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#8
Oil cooler
Toyota say 4wd trucks have an oil cooler 2wd does not. I also found the 95 V6 has the same oil cooler which solved the problem for $50 at a junkyard. Better than $1500 from Toyota. Thanks
#9
If you have the OEM oil cooler the water pump has the extra steel pipe port on it to supply coolant to the oil cooler. The water pump without the oil cooler is different on the 3VZ-E. When installing the oil cooler or a block-off cover it is really a good idea to use new O-ring seals between the block and under the screw. For redundancy I applied Loctite 515 gasket eliminator on the external surfaces that are outboard of the o-ring seal. The oil filter and the oil cooler see the oil from the oil pump first then the main bearings in the block get the oil pressure after the oil passes through these two-external-to-the-block components. If and when the internals do grenade with a spun bearing or some other such distress, the oil has to go through the the strainer in the sump, the oil pump and then the oil filter before it can get to the oil cooler. So the chance of the cooler getting contaminated are fairly slim but not impossible. When I had mine off I used liberal amounts of carb-cleaner and compressed air to flush it for what it was worth.
Hayden 291 is a remote oil filter kit that I am running on my 91's 3VZ-E and I have put the oil filter inside the front DS wheel well. As a precaution I double hose clamped both oil lines between the block-adapter and the oil-filter-header. This makes the filter changes so much nicer. The oil filter header will allow you to run a much longer oil filter like a Fram; PH-8 or HP-1. I prefer WIX but know the Fram numbers by heart. If you could find a spot you might run a cooler in series with this kit, in front of the radiator but with AC it is quite busy behind the grill.
I run O'Reilly 20W-50 in my engine and had put a small washer under the pressure relief spring in the oil pump when I did the rebuild. As the oil pressure is around 10 PSI at idle on the 3VZ-E I figured this was some cheap insurance with the added oil lines I was putting into the system. As a result the oil pressure gauge is always between the two lines on the high pressure side of the sweep when buzzing along on the freeway or when it is first started and the oil is cold. When its warmed up at idle the gauge is between the two lines and never below the lower one. This was not the case before the rebuild. I also ran a Professional Products oil filter without any bypass for the first two oil change intervals of 2,500 miles. As this filter has no by pass the lint from the shop rags was the first thing I saw on the first change as break in was started. The second change was some really small metal particles presumably from the bedding in of everything and on the final and last change the 20 micron screen was devoid of anything I could see. There is nothing like the feeling of a new well broken in engine that is at the start of its service life. So I just installed a PH-8 last Friday and the oil needed is 5.5 to 6 quarts to get it topped off due to the filter being about twice the size of the OEM or the Prof Products filter I had been running.
Hayden 291 is a remote oil filter kit that I am running on my 91's 3VZ-E and I have put the oil filter inside the front DS wheel well. As a precaution I double hose clamped both oil lines between the block-adapter and the oil-filter-header. This makes the filter changes so much nicer. The oil filter header will allow you to run a much longer oil filter like a Fram; PH-8 or HP-1. I prefer WIX but know the Fram numbers by heart. If you could find a spot you might run a cooler in series with this kit, in front of the radiator but with AC it is quite busy behind the grill.
I run O'Reilly 20W-50 in my engine and had put a small washer under the pressure relief spring in the oil pump when I did the rebuild. As the oil pressure is around 10 PSI at idle on the 3VZ-E I figured this was some cheap insurance with the added oil lines I was putting into the system. As a result the oil pressure gauge is always between the two lines on the high pressure side of the sweep when buzzing along on the freeway or when it is first started and the oil is cold. When its warmed up at idle the gauge is between the two lines and never below the lower one. This was not the case before the rebuild. I also ran a Professional Products oil filter without any bypass for the first two oil change intervals of 2,500 miles. As this filter has no by pass the lint from the shop rags was the first thing I saw on the first change as break in was started. The second change was some really small metal particles presumably from the bedding in of everything and on the final and last change the 20 micron screen was devoid of anything I could see. There is nothing like the feeling of a new well broken in engine that is at the start of its service life. So I just installed a PH-8 last Friday and the oil needed is 5.5 to 6 quarts to get it topped off due to the filter being about twice the size of the OEM or the Prof Products filter I had been running.
#10
I opted for the oil cooler upgrade as I decided to replace the timing belt anyways. The oil cooler from my 3vze bolted directly to the 5vzfe, as well as the coolant nipple, and the timing belt kit comes with the water pump designed for the oil cooler.
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