V6 3.0L Water pump Removal
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
V6 3.0L Water pump Removal
I need to replace Water pump in my V6 3.0L pickup truck. Someone please direct me to a Tech Write up documents, I would like to see I can do this job or not. I am just a rookie on auto rapair with a little below average on Mechanical things.
Thanks.
Louis.
Thanks.
Louis.
#2
It doesn't seem too hard. THe water pump is a part of this timing belt write-up.
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/v6tbelt/
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/v6tbelt/
#4
Yeah, it's not too hard at all. Took me about 6 hours to do mine. The crank bolt is a major pain though. Once you get past that, it's easy...just a bit tedious to get the timing to line up sometimes.
If you don't have a Torque wrench that will go to 181 ftlb/torque, you can pick one up at autozone for free under thier loan a tool program. You may need a pulley puller from them too.
Well, have fun!
Daniel
If you don't have a Torque wrench that will go to 181 ftlb/torque, you can pick one up at autozone for free under thier loan a tool program. You may need a pulley puller from them too.
Well, have fun!

Daniel
#6
Originally Posted by snap-on
to break the crank bolt loose i use the engine, to tighen it back up, you have to have some sort of bar to keep the motor from spinning.
might as well do the timming belt while your in there.
might as well do the timming belt while your in there.

Yeah, I used a bar to keep the motor from spinning both to remove and to tighten the bolt. It works good.
#7
I didn't have to touch the crank to do my water pump. Are you talking about replacing the timing belt while you're in there? It would be a good idea, and the only reason I'd see for having to do anything with the crank bolt.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by DH6twinotter

Yeah, I used a bar to keep the motor from spinning both to remove and to tighten the bolt. It works good.

#9
They don't have the bolt pictured in the write up from what I can see, but here is where it screws in (red arrow).

I suppose if you are not going to do the timing belt, you could just take the belt off the cam sprockets and let the belt just hang there off the crank sprocket. Would save you the pain with the crank bolt, but I highly recomend changing the timing belt while you are already torn into things. Change the thermostate too.
Make sure, when you are done, that all the marks line up (green lines on the crank sprocket and also check the marks on the cams). Rotate the crank 2 times by hand when you are done and recheck all marks.
Well, hope that helps!
Have fun all.
Daniel

I suppose if you are not going to do the timing belt, you could just take the belt off the cam sprockets and let the belt just hang there off the crank sprocket. Would save you the pain with the crank bolt, but I highly recomend changing the timing belt while you are already torn into things. Change the thermostate too.
Make sure, when you are done, that all the marks line up (green lines on the crank sprocket and also check the marks on the cams). Rotate the crank 2 times by hand when you are done and recheck all marks.
Well, hope that helps!
Have fun all.

Daniel
Last edited by DH6twinotter; Oct 28, 2005 at 09:51 AM.
#10
Originally Posted by DH6twinotter
They don't have the bolt pictured in the write up from what I can see, but here is where it screw in (red arrow).

I suppose if you are not going to do the timing belt, you could just take the belt off the cam sprockets and let the belt just hand there off the crank sprocket. Would save you the pain with the crank bolt, but I highly recomend changing the timing belt while you are allready torn into things. Change the thermostate too.
Make sure when you done all the marks line up (green lines on the crank sprocket and also check the marks on the cams). Rotate the crank 2 times by hand when you are done and recheck all marks.
Well, hope that helps!
Have fun all.
Daniel

I suppose if you are not going to do the timing belt, you could just take the belt off the cam sprockets and let the belt just hand there off the crank sprocket. Would save you the pain with the crank bolt, but I highly recomend changing the timing belt while you are allready torn into things. Change the thermostate too.
Make sure when you done all the marks line up (green lines on the crank sprocket and also check the marks on the cams). Rotate the crank 2 times by hand when you are done and recheck all marks.
Well, hope that helps!
Have fun all.

Daniel
#11
youll see the white tick marks on the cam wheels. These line up with marks on the black sheetmetal backing plates.
so yes technically you can replace the waterpump without takeing the lower crank pully off
#12
Snap-on and bassinfool are right, you don't have to take the belt off the crank pulley unless you want change the belt (recommended). Also, in the picture above, it looks like they removed the power steering pump. You don't need to do that.
Here is an AutoCAD drawing I whipped up for the bar that keeps the crank from turning:

Buy a peice of steel and cut a hole large enough to fit onto the crank pulley and around the little tabs sticking out. Use the end of the peice of steel sticking up (or resting on the ground) to keep the crank from turning. Put your socket (19mm I think) through the hole in the steel and onto your crank bolt and rotate with your rachet. Use your PS pulley bolts to hold the piece of steel onto the crank pulley
Hope that makes sense. Kinda confusing.
Have fun.
Daniel
Here is an AutoCAD drawing I whipped up for the bar that keeps the crank from turning:

Buy a peice of steel and cut a hole large enough to fit onto the crank pulley and around the little tabs sticking out. Use the end of the peice of steel sticking up (or resting on the ground) to keep the crank from turning. Put your socket (19mm I think) through the hole in the steel and onto your crank bolt and rotate with your rachet. Use your PS pulley bolts to hold the piece of steel onto the crank pulley
Hope that makes sense. Kinda confusing.
Have fun.

Daniel
Last edited by DH6twinotter; Oct 28, 2005 at 12:36 PM.
#13
(pics are of my truck) and i took the power stearing pump off because it was leaking and well, your there anyway why not. i dont think you HAVE to but every time ive done one on mine i have.
i made a bar out of angle iron for mine but just bolted to 2 bolts that were next to each other, leaving the center open for the rachet.
i made a bar out of angle iron for mine but just bolted to 2 bolts that were next to each other, leaving the center open for the rachet.
#14
Oh, I didn't realize that was your truck.
I noticed the bar on the crank in your picture there. Looks nice! Looks a lot more like a real tool than my crappy piece of steel.
Doesn't toyota (or somebody) make a tool similar to this called an SST or something? Seems like I read that somewhere. 
Well, have fun all.
Daniel
I noticed the bar on the crank in your picture there. Looks nice! Looks a lot more like a real tool than my crappy piece of steel.
Doesn't toyota (or somebody) make a tool similar to this called an SST or something? Seems like I read that somewhere. 
Well, have fun all.

Daniel
#15
How hard is it to replace a water pump in a 92 Toyota truck ? It is 2 wheel drive 5 speed 3.0 engine ! As fare as I can see the water pump is on the front of the engine . It looks like I have to remove the fan and a few pulleys and the pump is right there ! Any help quick tips or ideas sure would HELP OUT ALOT !!!!
#16
All answers are found in The Good Book. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...67timingbe.pdf
The water pump is "on the way" when replacing the timing belt, which you almost certainly should do (since you're in there).
To replace the timing belt, you need to remove the crank pulley, and to do that you need a crank pulley holding tool. Several were described in this thread (though most of the pictures are long gone). I am partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/
Some might suggest "alternate" methods for removing the pulley (such as using the starter!) Just remember that however you get the pulley bolt out, you've still got to put it back in, and the spec is 181 ftlbs! You will still need some sort of tool or method on the re-install.
Good luck!
The water pump is "on the way" when replacing the timing belt, which you almost certainly should do (since you're in there).
To replace the timing belt, you need to remove the crank pulley, and to do that you need a crank pulley holding tool. Several were described in this thread (though most of the pictures are long gone). I am partial to this one: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/
Some might suggest "alternate" methods for removing the pulley (such as using the starter!) Just remember that however you get the pulley bolt out, you've still got to put it back in, and the spec is 181 ftlbs! You will still need some sort of tool or method on the re-install.
Good luck!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
GreatLakesGuy
The Classifieds GraveYard
8
Sep 4, 2015 09:27 AM





