I have read somewhere about upgradeing stock front calipers to a pair of Calipers from a 2000 thru 2002 Tundra and they bolted up except for triming the dust sheild. I have searched here any have not found anything, has anybody done this upgrade. If so maybe you could chime in.

 

it only works on third gen 4runners not 2nd gen the mounting holes on a 2nd gen are 3.5 inches center to center the 3rd gen and tundra are 4.5 inches center to center

 

ok, thanks for the info.

 

Have you thought about upgrading the rear to disc?

 

thought about it, but have not gotten much past that. I have heard good things and bad about doing it. Your thoughts?

 

you could loose your parking brake depending on the kit you buy but other then that there great.

 

Yeah I haven't really delved into it too much. I guess my whole reason for looking for an upgrade is that I tow a travel trailer for longer stays when we are out trail riding for the weekend. I was wanting more stopping power with the Runner. Oregon does not have much flat ground at least in the Willamette Valley. You are either on a hill going up or on a hill going down. While up is not a problem- well not a problem with as much as can be expected with the 3.0. The going down the hill can be a challange. Yes I know trailer breaks. The trailer has them, but I just have not installed the controller in the cab yet.

Does the rear disc's provide more clamping power at all 4 corners rather then drums rear? I am disapointed that I can't fit the Tundra breaks, I was really looking forward to do that upgrade.

Any input or ideas on rear disc's. Anybody that has done it, and pro's vs. cons once the swap was made.

Possible fixes to the problem-- Straight axle swap and 1UZFE. At least that would fix the up hill problem Still have some more parts to get before I can swap the motor. I am so looking forward to the engine swap.

 

your best upgrade is going to be going Full Floater in the rear, and do a rear disc brake upgrade.

i've heard if you doo the full floater, well then you can use ALLLLLLLL different kinds of calipers and be able to keep your e-brake without a "sketchy" transfercase mounted e-brake.
Line-Lock's are also an option for an e-brake, but i've heard they can bleed off..
i've also heard from someone that they used the front calipers off of a '80something toyota car..and he rigged his e-brake to work.

 

http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/new...uct.php?id=128

you can get these with the parking brake. and line lock is an illegal form of a parking brake and with line lock you have to make sure your brake lines are not rusty or you will blow them out. the t-case e-brakes are nice but i think there illegal on the street to. and the can be very "sketchy".

 

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...e5a5a8ba84649b

 

i never paid any attention to the price on the FF conversion...Close to $700...YIKES.


although i have a few questions.


reading this http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/fullfloater/
you'll notice the Brackets that are essential in making this thing possible....would you be able to pick up JUST those brackets, and basically build your own kit?

although i think you need longer axle shafts...? pick those up too.


so instead of buying the kit, just buy the axle shafts and the brackets.. and cut the price in half?

 

I really like the FROR full floater I just can't justify ponying up over $1000. Believe me I've spent quite abit of time drooling over them. Haven't heard any success stories about the parting brake if you run the supra rear caliper.

As for Sky Manufacturing and Dave Offroad Performance. Well I'm sure that they are a wonderful kit itheir pricey and both use special parts that can't be local sourced and installed. Rotors have to be machined. Never heard a positive success story using the rear parking brake calipers either. Just different designs for actuation.

I've got a kit that was designed to use the solid axle rotors and calipers. Its from a company caller Trail Rough (or Tough) looks really nice. I plan to use a line lock on the front line, just for trail stops and leaving rig running. A line lock will not make an Ebrake no ifs, ands, or buts. When the hydrualic fail the line lock will not work. I may go with a tcase brake one day but realalisticly my parking brake was slow to stop my truck and that was two brakes applying friction. Somehow I don't seem to think that a single brake on the axle spinning 5 times faster than the tires is going to stop the rig anywhere the same as the factory. I could be very wrong but haven't heard any one with a positive e brake located at tcase story. Bu I have heard they work very well for a parking brake. Just a little bit of what I'm thinking and planning.

 

the e-brake is meant to be used when the vehicle is STOPPED.



i've heard the T-case E-brake works well, just some people are scared of it...if it's properly adjusted, and you really rip the handle...it works just fine!

i have no e-brake at all right now, and i haven't had any problems just puttin it in gear..but i hate having to shut off my rig then start it again when i'm on an incline and gotta get out

 

Sorry dude but you are confused parking brakes are for staying stopped; E brake aka emergency brake is for well of crap my brakes aren't working. Thus the name. Lets stick to facts. the t-case brake may work like a gem for a parking brake but the line lock is a fraction of the cost. Yes more difficult install. I also want to run a rear heater, with dual case it can present a problem. I have yet to hear a success story of a tcase brake making a good e brake. I have yet to hear a success story of a tcase brake making a good e brake. yep said it twice.