found this for you to check out, forgot i had it in my favourites:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/hottoy/west/

lee

 

Update.

I was told that BFG is going to discontinue the 33/10.50 in favor of the 12.50. Of course the guy had a full set of 31's sitting there that he'd make me a "great" deal on.

Oh and I got in touch with the local U-pull-it place and they sell CV third members (like on the front of our IFS trucks right?) for 25$ and the complete rear axle for 110$.

So if I have to go with 31's then I need no lift at all. If I can find out which toyotas came with 4.56's or 4.30's and get those thirds cheaper then I can still lock the rear and have some extra money for some rock armor.

 

I think the 4.30 comes from a 22RE w/ automatic and the 4.56 is 3VZE with automatic. Remember that you won't be able to put an Aussie locker in a V6 rear differential if that was your plan. You can still go with a Lock Right though, but I don't think that its quite as good as an Aussie in on road performance or off road reliability.

The Rubicon only has a 32" tire I think. I think also that it was the 33x9.5 that is being discontinued, not the 10.5.

 

According to Isaac you don't need to lift for the skinny 33's (if you can get them) My thinking on the 31's was that you wouldn't "have to" re-gear. At least "right now". All your stuff would still be useable in your future plans and the only thing you would be out is your time and energy to put in the lunchbox locker. It would be a good idea to find out the real deal on the skinny 33's because if you gear for them and can manage to get one of the last sets floating around, you will still be faced with what to do when they are used up and only 12.50's are available. If they are in fact discontinuing the 10.50's, that would probably be of a lot of interest to many on this board. I hope it's like Matt said 9.50 and not 10.50 (though I hate to see either one go)

Oh, and while I hate to belabor the point, I'd still strongly suggest the Budbuilt skid/crossmember. It will gain a lot of clearance (maybe more than the 33/31 difference) and provide protection.

 

The stock tires on 2005 model (TJ) are 245/75R16 which is 30.46 in by 9.64 in. 32" (255/75R17) are on the 2007+ (JK) Rubies.

I second the cross member / skid emphasis. No need to re-gear diffs if staying with 31" tires and doing the T/C re-gear.

 

Yeah my issue now is whether or not I can get them. I've sent an email to BFG and will post the reply.



I took a look at that thing and it looks pretty tough. 175$ isn't too bad either.

 

An alternative
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Tires/Sup..._pn=SSTSAM-83R

 

BFG is looking at discontinuing the 9.50.

I SERIOUSLY doubt that they would be discontinuing the 10.50, considering that they are producing one for the new KM2.

Do not weld the diff unless you don't have to drive on the street. People do it all the time, I realize, but people smoke crack too.

x a billion on the budbuilt stuff.

 

 

Sooo, are you saying that welding your diff is ok as long as you smoke crack? cause my dog just said...never mind.

 

Exactly.

Welding a diff and smoking crack are similar.

It seems like a good idea at first, though you are hesitant, because people have warned you. You do it, and for a while, it feels great. Then all of the bad parts start to catch up with you. In the end, you would have been happier without it.

Very similar indeed.

 

I have to find the pictures of me pulling out three diffrent Rubies on 1 trip, and a H3. I never understood the Jeep thing. There is no sub for traction, get the power to the ground.

 

I doubt also that BFG is going to stop the 33/10.50 line.

So it looks like Discount just lost my business. I hate folks that lie. My next option is the Tread Wright retread site. I've found a nice set of 31's that I'll probably order mainly because they are 75$ a shot and I can keep the stock look of the rig. I'm thinking a "sleeper" look for a locked and geared trail rig will be more fun although I might not put the "Save The Whales" sticker on the back. That and I can't count how many "trail rigs" I've seen with unscratched armor and nice chrome that I KNOW haven't seen rocks in a long time..... if ever.

Planning on going to the pick in pull tomorrow as they have a few Toy's there that I can grab the thirds from. At less than 200$ (possibly less than that since the thirds are considered CV members and sell for 25$ a piece) I can't go wrong. I've dropped the lift idea and will go with the smaller bump stops. The locker in the rear is still on the board as well as some home made armor.

The only porblem now is having the time/money since my divorce is about to be final and I've a house on the market to sell.

All said and done the Jeep issue isn't even a thought anymore. I can easily follow him anywhere since I found out he's had this thing since 2005 (when he got it new) and has only ever locked it in on a trail once and has zero trail time on anything technical.

So with new options (that save money) and a higher level of skill you guys are going to watch me build a sleeper. This is going to be a great summer.

FYI this is what I learned to wheel in.





Yes those are poser pics but I never really cared about snapping photos while on the trail.

and right before I sold it.

 

Do you need the house to sell or can you afford to stay there yourself? Because nothing sells a house like a 4X4 spread all over the driveway.

Yeah, it's funny how the better I've gotten at wheeling, the less I'm interested in taking pictures of it. I end up relying on the pics of other folks.

 

True, welding a diff on a daily driver is not a fun thing to do - stress on the axle shafts, and really worn tires suck. Which is why I said to get a spare third and weld it for this "competition" only. I've seen lunchbox lockers blow up (both Aussie and Lockrite), and I've seen properly welded spider gears go through hell and survive. If I had to pick what I wanted for trail-use only, a spool would be #1 on the list, and a welded rear end is #2.

 

Here in Logan where I live there are many capable Jeeps, so I won't bash them either. (The wife drives a Cherokee. GASP!) My 86 has a rear Lock Right, 4.56 gears, a Rhino clutch, and a new 22R with a cam and a Weber, and even with no lift and factory IFS, can hang with all the severely modified Jeeps, and even spank some. My driving skills aren't up to par with the truck. And I saw someone on here quote that they know someone who can go pretty far with and IFS truck. I would focus on locker(s), maybe (if you can spend the cash) a doubler setup for the t cases, and good tires. I run the BFG all terrains, but the muds are an excellent choice too. The doubler would put you on more of a level playing field with the Rubicon. Also, I run 32's on my truck with no lift and no fender trimming, nor cranked torsion bars, and have more ground clearance than a Jeep. So go out there and do us Yota guys proud!

 

I understand the need for traction (i.e. lockers, tires) but without flex (i.e. IFS) you WILL be lifting tires. That's where the Rubicon's front axle is superior

 

STOCK Rubi's (or stock SFA Toyotas for that matter) don't flex any better than our IFS ... worse if they leave the swaybar hooked up.

 

I think flex is a little over rated if you have lockers. Sure in some situations you need flex, but when I was pricing stuff out- Aussie locker ($300) vs. BJ spacers/ shocks/ alignment ($125 + $200 + DIY) I know which one is more cost effective.

 

Flex keeps you off your lid. The more your tires are on the ground, the less likely you are to roll over.

Not to say lockers don't help out the IFS situation some, but they're no replacement for having all four tires on the ground.