Ouch. Makes my wallet hurt just thinking about it.

 

FWIW Junker, this is the first build I've been excited about in a LONG ass time here on YT.

I'm so sick of seeing the bull crap SAS garbage. Finally someone with the sense to wheel what he's got.

Awesome job man!! I'll be following this one.

 

I did both ARB's and the 4.7 case on a college kids budget. All about pinching those pennies. Literally. And yes, I ate Ramen 2 meals a day for a month for the rear ARB I've got issues.

 

The cost of quality is soon forgotten... especially when you see the look on people's faces when you go right through a tough section that hung up every other "stock" truck. LOL

 

Isaac, there ain't enough bandwidth on the Internet to go into all that.

 

you're right there with me, buddy ol pal.

 

Oh I hear ya. I will eventually have that list of items myself. I just put my plan out there on the assumption (and I know we shouldn't assume) that Junker didn't/wouldn't want to drop that kind of dough between now and July 1st. Mine is the quick, low budget plan. Are you running the 33's on stock gearing? If so, how is it?

 

I assumed he'd be regearing with his lockers. Again, there's that assumption thing.

No, I am running 4.88's. I agree on the need to regear for 33's. Stock gearing would SUUUCCKKK.

 

For my birthday I want a pinyata filled with a locker and maybe some springs lol.

But if you are alternating between sand an rocks you may want to consider onboard air...

 

I am picturing you getting hit in the head with falling springs and diffs. Ouch.

 

Do us all a favour and convince you friend that your Toyota is stock. Maybe even put a couple soccer mom bumper stickers on.

 

Perhaps a "Save the Whales" sticker on the tailgte and a "Green Peace" sticker in the back window?

 

Thanks for all the help folks! I'll be sure and post up progress reports as I go along.

So far we have me installing a set of 4.88 thirds, a 1.5" bj lift for a little more down travel, 2" AAL rear (this will get replaced with a new set of springs eventually) 33/10.50/15 BFG Muds (with siping) and an Aussie locker in the rear.

The above stated is what we'll call our baseline build.

Now our options as listed by ya'll are.

A front locker
On board air
front and rear rock bumpers
rock sliders
a new crossmember
fuel tank armor
T-case gears
and one magic carpet.........

Lets start at the top.

Another locker is really a good idea and I've got the extra 250$ to get it and I can install it myself.

OBA is out of the question for now. The set up I want I can't afford and I don't have room for my York compressor under the hood.

Bumpers..... I had a buddy that was going to make be some bumpers and sliders but he moved out (I think he was angry) and I haven't heard from him since. Marlins are really nice but I can't afford those either.

Same with a cross member

The fuel tank armor, is the factory plate too thin? I'm not planning on beating the poop out of this thing just a nice slow idle.

T case gears. Now that's an idea! I may have to look into this further.

One magic carpet. Steppenwolf indeed!! I'm not sure what you do in your Yota but I'm there with ya!

I'm hoping to get into the hobby shop this next week or following weekend to start doing some of this stuff. It's neat since it only costs 4$ an hour to rent a bay with a lift and they provide all the tools, a tech to help answer questions and a certified welder to make repairs. This is going to be fun.

 

If it were me, the following would be order of priority to look stock & kick bootie (at low speed crawling and assuming you have manual hubs):

1) Lockers f/r
2) T-case gears
3) BudBuilt crossmember & skid
4) Sliders
(above is excellent with 31-32" tires w/o mud flaps and will probably outwheel him if he's stock and you're careful)
5) BJ spacers & rear springs
6) 4.88 gears & 33's
7) Bumpers
8) Fuel tank armor
9) On-board air

Be aware that your steering will be stiffer with a front Aussie locker when the hubs are locked and in 4WD.

You want your tires aired down for both. Go out to Moab / Green River / Hanksville and you'll want to leave your tires at 15-20lbs the whole time. At 20lbs you can drive on the highway, as long as you don't go over 60 miles per hour for long periods. (This assumes you have 31-33" tires w/ 15" rims).

 

x2 on the onboard air from 86 original's post. That should be about the LAST thing on your list.

No need to worry about the gas tank. I've whacked it a lot. It no longer holds the full amount of gas, but the skid is plenty to keep it from leaking

Steppenwolf rocks.

 

I haven't done anything too bad to the front bumper yet. I'd leave that alone as its expensive and this is, after all, only a Jeep. The rear bumper on the other hand is going to be an impediment. Especially with the Jeeps great departure angle. I think a Marlin Crawler rear bumper or something like that would be well worth your money. On the 2nd gen, I think you'd gain about 6 inches of clearance under the rear bumper. I bet it would still be worthwhile on the 1st gen.

 

Also, if doing BJ spacers, put on a idler arm brace and lower the suspension to stock height after the install. Put on low profile compression bumpstops (cheap!). You'll flex great.

 

If you want to save some cash for somewhere else, get a spare third for $100 or off a junker and weld the sucker. Save you $150 to go into something else.

 

I disagree. You'll pay that $150 in tires in short order from a welded diff, IMO.

 

You would need to pay someone at least $50 to weld the spider gears. so you're only saving $50. Your also out gear oil and at least and hour of your time. Not worth it.

Save $20 now and pay $400 later when your tires wrecked.