Toyota 4Runner first gen.
Do you know how to remove the ignition key cylinder?

 

With the key turn to acc. Then use a pick or similar tool to push the pin on the side. While the pin is pushed in you should be able to pull the lock out

 

I can see that pin here:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...locked-277237/

but my 4R doesn't have it in the same position.

 

Maybe a little further back? Partially obscured by the t.s. assy?

 

I have to remove the steering wheel to access to it, or do what this guy did


Thank you Jimkola

 

Removing the steering wheel isn't a big deal, just make sure to mark the position on the shaft before pulling it off so you get the splines aligned right when you reinstall. The other trick is to loosen the nut, but leave it on the last 3-4 threads. Then grab the wheel at the 9:00/3:00 position and pull/rock back and forth. Pull like hell. The reason you leave the nut on is so when the wheel does finally let go you don't smash yourself in the face.
That said, I think I'd find something a little thinner than a 16 penny nail, like a pick with a 90 degree bend at the tip. You should be able to snake it in their and push the pin in.

 

Thank you, Jimkola
I have 2 4rs, in one of them, to remove the key, I must go to ACC position, push the famous button in the steering wheel column, turn the key to LOCK and then remove the key. I think that is the way.
But in the other one, I can remove the key from whatever position it is in the key cylinder, I don't know why and that is what I'm trying to find out.

 

To push in the pin the lock must be in accessory. Once you push the pin in you should be able to just pull the lock cylinder out. You don't need to turn the key "lock".

If a key can be removed from the cylinder in any position that's from badly worn wafers(tumblers) inside the lock, along with a worn key. Every now and then a new key cut from code will fix it, but more often than not you need new wafers, too.
If the key is stuck in "lock" and you can't turn you can try jiggling it up/down while turning. Usually a build up of old oil and metal shavings from the key jams them, and if you can shoot oil in there you might be able to flush enough junk out to rotate the key. If everything fails then the last option is to get a punch and drive the pin in with a few hammer blows, but at that point you've lost the lock. ASP should have a replacement lock, but it'll come with a new key code. if you can extract the lock without damaging it you can rekey that one once you locate the parts
Rekeying a lock is pretty simple, but getting the wafers can be a pain. Most locksmiths are not helpful. There are 6 wafers in each lock, with four different sizes available. If you have a ultrasonic cleaner it does wonders for cleaning a lock up before you start taking it apart. Each wafer has a little spring, so it helps to have a tray or something to work on so you don't lose anything. The ignition lock is the easiest to learn with since it doesn't have the chrome bezel like the door locks.
This kit has everything you need to rekey every lock on your vehicle, with the exception of the tailgate. The only thing missing to do the tailgate is a replacement bezel(face cap). I just got some for myself, and I had to buy a package of 10. So if anyone ever needs a tailgate bezel hit me up.

 

That happens as they wear, over time. Both mine you can pull the key out with the truck running, off, whatever.
I am, BTW, still using the keys that came with each truck from the factory. But, even with a new-cut key, you can still pull it, so it's the lock cylinder, not the fault of the key.

Good luck, and have fun!
Pat☺

 

Oh, sorry, that kit is made by ASP and the the part number is A-30-104. That kit number has been changed a few times, and each revision covers more vehicle applications than you need(and cost more). so if you can find this kit on eBay or similar it should be $20-$40. this one they want $34.00. Higher end, but looks like it's never been used, even partially.
https://www.hawleylocksupply.com/Mer...egory_Code=ASP

 

You'll just need the first 7 characters of your model number. The model # would be on the driver's door jam label where you have the vin and tire psi info
https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/4runner/

 

Thank you, a lot of info.
That is the problem, I can pull the key out with the truck running, off, lock, etc without pushing the steering column button. That is what I'm trying to show in this pic (videos next time ) :



It works good in the other 4R:


They keys are new.
So the problem is worn wafers (tumblers).
Thank you Jimkola!

 

@SomedayJ , did you ever resolve this? My ignition key is different form the door/tailgate keys, which I find very annoying. I'm assuming the ignition is the original one, as it is very worn, and the other key is nearly new:




So I'm not sure which way to go - rekey the ignition cylinder to match the door cylinders, rekey the door cylinders to match the ignition cylinders? That wafer kit that @Jimkola recommended seems like a nifty project, and they still appear to be available. Or is it possible to buy an entire lock set for these trucks,?

 

The key on the bottom is for a "K" series lock. That's what was available in 1987. The key is aftermarket, but still has a fair amount of plating left. Once the plating wears off the underlying metal will wear pretty fast, like the other one in your picture.
The other key, the one with the extra groove running down it's side, is a "S" series key. Iirc , "S" series were installed on 1988 and newer.
Toyota no longer offers the original K ignition lock, and supersedes the part number to the S one for 1988. The exterior shape of the two different locks are identical.

I needed a new ignition lock, and found out the hard way about the changeover. I wasn't crazy about having two keys, which prompted me to get a rekey kit and fix my old lock. I sold the new S lock on eBay to recoup some of my money.
I dunno if a complete lock cylinder kit is available that has all five locks. Toyota doesn't offer a complete kit anymore, but ASP Corp. or a similar company, might.

 

Thanks Jim - to clarify, the worn key (with the plating mostly gone) is the ignition key; the one with more plating remaining is the door key. So you are saying that the ignition key is the S-series, and it's not the original one (since my truck is an '87)? So would that wafer kit work for me, or do I need to go a different route?

 

Yep, i knew the worn key was the ignition. Your ignition lock has been replaced at one time with an S series lock. And no, the kit I listed won't work with that lock.
You can get a K series ignition lock, just not from Toyota. ASP, the same company that makes that rekey kit, offers locks. Their stuff seems pretty decent.

 

Thanks again Jim. So is C-30-110 the correct ASP number for my '87? - https://www.anixter.com/en_us/produc...cks/p/CS718734
And what wafer set would I need to rekey it to match the door locks?

 

That part number is correct.
the original rekey kit number is A-30-104. Had wafers, springs, shutter doors, and most of the bezels(no tailgate lock bezel). That kit was superseded to A-30-116, but it covered 3 different lock series. Fine for a locksmith, but overkill for you.
i saw eBay had two of the 104 kits listed right now, but double what I paid. Might make them an offer and see if the bite.

 

Thanks Jim. I have a C-30-110 and an A-30-104 heading my way .

 

Even though I have my key code(stamped on passenger door lock) I didn't have any way to look up the 6 digit code for the wafers.
So I just did trial and error. Doing one wafer at a time, putting the key in, till I got all six right. Then I wrote it all down so I didn't have to go through that again.

I'd pull the passenger door panel and get that code. It's good to have, and I'd recommend getting a key cut from code before you start rekeying the ignition lock.
Getting a trace cut of a worn key is sorta like making a copy(xerox) of a fuzzy photo. Once you have a key cut from code you can use it to have more keys cut using the less expensive trace method.