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Even though I have my key code(stamped on passenger door lock) I didn't have any way to look up the 6 digit code for the wafers.
So I just did trial and error. Doing one wafer at a time, putting the key in, till I got all six right. Then I wrote it all down so I didn't have to go through that again.
I'd pull the passenger door panel and get that code. It's good to have, and I'd recommend getting a key cut from code before you start rekeying the ignition lock.
Getting a trace cut of a worn key is sorta like making a copy(xerox) of a fuzzy photo. Once you have a key cut from code you can use it to have more keys cut using the less expensive trace method.
Sounds good Jim, I'll do that. I just want to confirm that I understood correctly what you said about the S vs K key:
The key on the bottom is for a "K" series lock. That's what was available in 1987. The key is aftermarket, but still has a fair amount of plating left. Once the plating wears off the underlying metal will wear pretty fast, like the other one in your picture. The other key, the one with the extra groove running down it's side, is a "S" series key. Iirc , "S" series were installed on 1988 and newer.
So in the photo that I posted, the worn ignition key (with the extra groove), is the S series, that was put in as a replacement to the original ignition switch. And the other key, with more intact plating, the one that opens all doors and tailgate, is the original K key. Yes? Sorry if I'm dense, this is all new to me.
So my strategy will be to get the take the new K ignition cylinder, and use the rekeying set to make it work with the original key, after (hopefully) getting a brand new key made at Toyota using the code I pull off the passenger cylinder. Right?
Hi Leon,
I bought the kit that @Jimkola recommended to me. But I haven't done anything with it yet. We are very busy with another project at the moment. It is next to the OME suspension, 1" body lift, hood struts, and other parts I got last months.
Another thing: I can use the same key for ignition, doors, and fuel tank lid in both of my '88 4Runners. The Xtra has two keys, one of which opens the FTL.
Hi Leon,
I bought the kit that @Jimkola recommended to me. But I haven't done anything with it yet. We are very busy with another project at the moment. It is next to the OME suspension, 1" body lift, hood struts, and other parts I got last months.
Another thing: I can use the same key for ignition, doors, and fuel tank lid in both of my '88 4Runners. The Xtra has two keys, one of which opens the FTL.
Oh I know you have your hands full with other things, no worries buddy! I'll let you know how I make out with this project.
Correct.
The "K" key doesn't have the groove.
"S" series keys came out in 1988-89. So your ignition lock has been replaced at some point
Perfect, thanks Jim. I'm going to have a fun day tinkering with the ignition switch and the horn contacts, while I'm already working in that vicinity .
Hope it's OK if I keep posting on this thread. I received the ASP ignition lock, which looks like the right thing:
I'm assuming that in order to release the inner cylinder with the wafers, I need to remove this mashed down part on the lock, just to the left of the pin:
I haven't found any how-to's on how to do that for this configuration. @Jimkola , any suggestions on that?
I also received the wafer kit, which is a bit underwhelming, I knew I was buying a used item, but the kit is sort of a mess, with wafers in the wrong bins, and some old junk thrown in (including split wafers). I can't tell which parts are used and which ones are new. I may end up being able to find enough pieces to do my lock, I'll reassess after I dismantle my new ASP lock. Or I may just end up returning it. A local locksmith said they can do this for $50; given that this wafer kit cost me almost as much, I may just end up going that route.
Never mind, I figured it out . Just needed to depress that little piece in the back (circled in red), and the cylinder slides right out, no grinding needed. Now to figure out what wafers I need to match my door key!
OK, I'm in business, got all the wafers figured out and the ignition lock operating with the same key as the door locks. I won't bother cluttering up this thread, but I'll share more details on my build thread for anyone interested.
I finished the swap, but had a couple of interesting observations along the way.
First, I had a new key made from the code on the passenger lock cylinder. The key worked great in the new ignition switch, but... didn't work in the door lock, tailgate, or the fuel lid! I went back to the locksmith to complain, but he told me that this happens often, because the old cylinders wore down as the old key wore, so they sort of "wore in" together. But a brand new key would not have the same wear pattern as the old wafers, and thus would have trouble opening the old locks.
I was skeptical, but decided to try it out by re-wafering an old door lock. Lo and behold, the new key worked perfectly with the new wafers. So now I need to re-wafer all the other locks, and unintended consequence of getting a brand new key.
I also saw that the ignition switch I pulled out had a longer lever than my replacement switch, and the new switch would not fit into the steering column:
No big deal, I swapped the levers, and all was good. But I wonder why the levers were different length?
Anyway, all is good now, I just need to re-wafer all my other locks so I can use a single key for everything.
I finished the swap, but had a couple of interesting observations along the way.
First, I had a new key made from the code on the passenger lock cylinder. The key worked great in the new ignition switch, but... didn't work in the door lock, tailgate, or the fuel lid! I went back to the locksmith to complain, but he told me that this happens often, because the old cylinders wore down as the old key wore, so they sort of "wore in" together. But a brand new key would not have the same wear pattern as the old wafers, and thus would have trouble opening the old locks.
I was skeptical, but decided to try it out by re-wafering an old door lock. Lo and behold, the new key worked perfectly with the new wafers. So now I need to re-wafer all the other locks, and unintended consequence of getting a brand new key.
I also saw that the ignition switch I pulled out had a longer lever than my replacement switch, and the new switch would not fit into the steering column:
No big deal, I swapped the levers, and all was good. But I wonder why the levers were different length?
Anyway, all is good now, I just need to re-wafer all my other locks so I can use a single key for everything.
How do you swap the arms ?? I’m trying to get the correct ignition cylinder in my 85 and it’s been a bit of a nightmare. The one I had was wrong and you had to push the key in towards the center of the column real hard to engage the switch in order crank the truck over. The part with accessory and start written on it also was tapered in a way it didn’t look right with the plastic clam shell over the column. I bought what seems to be the correct cylinder but it doesn’t just drop right in. I’m starting to think the arm is the issue.
Never mind my last post I got mine to go together. It sure was a pain in the butt though. I’m still not exactly sure how I succeeded. LOL
It was a combination of really getting everything lined up and happy where it’s supposed to be… I think… and maybe some luck.
Mar 22, 2024 | 08:24 AM
