Hey all, I just purchased a new Rancho single stabilizer kit for my 93' 4runner. I've done some searching on the forums on how to remove the OEM "Bicycle pump", but i need some more info on how to remove it without industrial tools, just simple hand tools.

I've heard of heating the stabilizer stud on the tie-rod, and hitting it with a BFH.

Any alternatives?

 

A cheapo tie rod puller from harbor freight will make quick work of that thing. It's actually pretty difficult to get a good angle to hit it with a BFH. I didn't have the HF tie rod puller when I did mine, so I ended up torching it off, then torching the stud out of the hole. Based on my experience with the bicycle pump, I doubt you'll get it off with a hammer.

 

Autozone sells a "pickle fork" ball joint/tie rod seperator for $10.00. I have used mine for all kinds of chores. well worth the $$ and yes it will pop off the bicycle pump too!

 

Or you can go rent one for free. All you need is that pickle fork and a BFH. You might want some PB Blaster too.

I did mine in about 45 mins and that was with taking pics.

 

Thanks guys. Whats the change in ride and handling when I change to the Rancho stabilizer; other than the stock bicycle pump? I hear it's a really big difference.

 

If the stock stabilizer is still functional (i.e. the oil has not leaked out), you'll probably find little difference unless you are running wide wheels/tires or the tires are not well balanced or out of round. I have some removal tips on my web page: http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ringStabilizer

 

I just put on a new OME stabilizer and it handles better. I had no pickle fork and no transportation to get a rental so I took a pair of big channel locks and put it behind the spot where it mounted to and squeezed them while I beat the channel locks with a big hammer. It took about 10 minutes to get it off versus a pickle fork with maybe just 1 minute of work. I'd say get the rental or maybe just buy one and it will come in handy later on.

 

Exactly what he said.

 

Not sure about the rancho stabilizer, but my procomp stabilizer is at least 10 times stiffer than the bike pump. I had some shaking up front before the switch. Afterwards, all was well.

 

I use both stabilizers. Never bothered removing the old one.

 

My old bicycle pump is starting to leak quite a bit, and maybe when i pull it out, it wil start to bleed

Also, my alignment is messed; I should get the stabilizer changed before I get the alignment done.

 

Okay, I brought my Rancho Steering Stabilizer to an auto-garage, so I can let them install it for me. I was too lazy and I didn't have the time to install it myslef. Anyways, I brought the part along with the brackets to the mechanic, he took the stabilizer, and put up against the old one. And to my amazement, he said the stabilizer won't bolt in, and the mounting holes are all wrong, DUHH! Thats why I brought the brackets to mount it too! I told him that the passenger side bracket goes on to the idler arm, geuss what, he says there is no way it can go on the idler arm unless you weld it to the frame

Then, like most auto-shops do, they you make order OEM parts, when a part is worn out. But, I didn't want a OEM part. So then he calls the local stealership, and they're asking for $271 CDN for an OEM BICYCLE PUMP! So then I took all my parts and left the shop immeadiatly

 

Some install write-ups on the pge below:
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/suspension.html
I think OME makes one of the only true bolt-on stabilizers, many of the others need their own brkts. (like Rancho), I know the Rancho and Heckethorne stabilizers I've used on my '85 required additional brkts.

 

I purchased a stabilizer from JC Whitney - bolted right up, no brackets, no welding. Works fine for a DD and light to moderate off-roading. Getting the old one off was a PITA! Had to use the pickle fork, BFH and blue wrench, even after daily applications of PB for nearly a week beforehand. Gotta love Colorado salt & MagChlor!

 

I noe this sounds dumb, and out of hand coming from an exp. mechanic, but what does a leaky or bleeding steering damper mean, and what causes it?

I know its a bad thing

 

It means the shock seals have worn out and the hydraulic oil inside is leaking out. Once enough oil is gone, the shock no longer works (as in damping motion).

 

Ibought a procomp one from 4wheel parts a while back. I don't remember having any issues with removal and I didn't need any brackets to mount it.

 

Yup, the procomp ES2000 is a perfect fit.