Mauk

I pull into 7/11 get a mt. dew then try to turn my 1990 pickup on and nothing..
no clicks or beeps. So I think its a battery terminal problem because its happened before. I go buy a new battery (optima red top ) and put it in and still nothing. Then I notice a wire coming from the fuze box on the left side engine bay just chillin there and a wire on the positive side terminal doing the same thing. Then I figure out that they need to be touching for the engine to turn over but when its started it doesn't need to be touching.

I know I can just splice them together but I would like to know if there is a better way/solution for this.
Attachment 93524

Mauk

Attachment 93525

RAD4Runner

We appreciate well-stated problems like this. When you describe a problem well, it's already half-solved.

That slacker of a wire (heh-heh) is the fusible link. Needed to start the car, and to charge the battery. Once the car gets started, even if that's disconnected, alternator will supply necessary power. However, when that's disconnected, no power from the alternator goes to battery to charge it.

Yes, there is.
See Phibert's post. He discussed how he properly replaced that fusible link wire.

Team420

That almost looks like the power supply wire to the fuse/relay box....

Sounds like you figured out your own issue tho....

The real question is.... wheres the little gremmlin living under your hood that cut that wire?

ETA: I'm surprised your headlights/radio etc... are working with that wire cut....

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Is your battery sliding around and caused it to break?

Mauk

I removed the coating from both wires because I wasn't sure if there was any thing there, and the wire on the pos. terminal was shoved into the fuze box wire.

Mauk

It slides a little bit I'm sure. I should probably stop driving it like hotrod haha

Mauk

Thanks RAD, I knew someone would like that haha
Is there a link to that fix?

Mauk

Here she is by the way
Attachment 93531

RAD4Runner

Discussed in Philbert's thread here.

Summary is this:
Replace that broken FS segment with the following:
10 gauge wire crimped in series to 14 gauge fusible link.
Connect so FS wire half is closer to battery.

Best to use the "parallel connector".


This way, standard wire and fusible wire will have direct contact, without possible weak metal of butt connector between them.

Thread ^^ discusses how Philbert decided on AWG 10 wire & 14 gage F.S. wire.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

HI Mauk - got your PM. Ray is right and linked to my thread. My thread has some photos of how I mounted up the new thicker wire into the fuse box, and then used theh parallel connector. I also soldered after that, just for good measure. Also, not mentioned here, make sure you insulate the wire with heat shrink - you DON'T want that wire exposed, where it can corrode, or worse, short out on the chassis when it touches it (it's grounded).

Hope that helps - PM me with any questions (Ray knows way more but I'm happy to also help where I can )

Mauk

Ok so i got this fixed now on to my more important issue.. "code 52 Knock Sensor"
thanks to the great techs at the TOYOTA DEALERSHIP! then i take it to my local mechanic and they thought it was the wire coming from the pig tail. NOPE! two days later I guess they finally found out that its a bad computer (ECM?) so 900+ dollars later there wasnt anything actually fixed.. so now i ask you who makes a good ecm or are they all the same? the mech quoted me like 700+ for it but see them online for like 300.
any input will be greatly appreciated! ive had it since late april and it still not in my name! hahaha

Mauk

So to be sure its the knock sensor have them check the computer first! mine was sending bad signals :/

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Did you figure it out after all - it was not the computer but the knock sensor was just bad?

all good now?