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1990 4runner SR5 4x4 auto trans. Engine and transmission rebuilt less than 15k miles, or 2 1/2 years ago.
No problems until recently had to replace the accelerator cable. Also a complete tune-up.
Excited after replacing the cable and tune-up but now acquired another problem, now it starts and idles fine until I start to accelerate at which point it stalls, I can drive the vehicle if the rpm remains above 1200 and when I start off runs fine until I come to a stop then immediately when I attempt to take off it stalls. Again, I can take off if the rpm remains above 1200 rpm?
Just a thought, I get so few any more: Did you double check the TPS alignment after replacing the throttle cable?
Also, did you double check the timing setting? How about the idle setting...is it about 800-ish?
I'm sure someone will chime in with a more accurate idea, but that's what my pea-brain is screaming ATM.
[QUOTE=2ToyGuy;52441080]Just a thought, I get so few any more: Did you double check the TPS alignment after replacing the throttle cable?
Also, did you double check the timing setting? How about the idle setting...is it about 800-ish?
I'm sure someone will chime in with a more accurate idea, but that's what my pea-brain is screaming ATM.
Other than removing the TPS connector, which may have tweaked, I did not want to remove the throttle body to adjust the TPS. I did try and set the timing but before doing so I marked the original position and then jumped TE-E1 and the timing mark was considerably different I will give it another try. I set the idle at around 700, the engine starts up and hovers around 1200 rpm and once the thermostat kicks in the drops to 650-700 rpm, it is when I try and take off that it stalls if I can maintain the rpm at around 1000-1200 rpm it will take off and runs reasonably well?
Thank you for the input!!
TPS Readings
You don't have to take the throttle body off the intake to check the alignment. You can do it "in situ", or in place. Just need to pull the plug, and have a feeler gauge to insert into the the throttle stop screw to set the proper amount of "open" for the throttle body. What and how to measure and adjust is all in the FSM. Do you have a copy of the FSM? I strongly recommend getting one, even an electronic version. VERY handy to have.
Look here: 1990 4Runner repair manual and schematics
Just click the Download button. You will get the two manuals as a PDF downloaded to your HD.
You can print pages you might want to take out as reference while working on the truck
Make sure the idle, when warmed up all the way, ALL the way warm, is at 750 before you try setting the timing. According to the FSM, it should be 5° BTDC, with the jumper in. It's entirely possible the distributor is off by a tooth one way or the other, which would cause a lot of the troubles you're seeing.
All the above images are from the 1990 FSM I just downloaded
I hope something helps
Pat
Last edited by 2ToyGuy; Mar 29, 2020 at 01:58 PM.
Reason: wrong dist. setting
Setting the TPS is more difficult on the 3VZE than the 22re, because the TPS connector points the "wrong" way to get your multimeter in there. (lastcall has the 3VZE). But here's the FSM for it: http://web.archive.org/web/201108151...93throttle.pdf
Don't get too worked up about the exact resistances and the feeler gauges. All you're trying to do is get the IDL switch to open when the throttle opens. All the details are just to "define" what "open" means.
What they don't mention in the FSM but is pretty important is to check the resistance while you sweep the throttle from closed to open and back. The exact resistance isn't important, but you want a fairly smooth change. If you have opens or shorts the ECM won't know what to make of it.
How about we start with things that were worked on, crazy idea right?
Did you follow the FSM directions or "just slapped the new cable on", the book gives details about how much slack you should have on the throttle cable and transmission line pressure.
Sorry I don't recall them of hand, other than your throttle cable should have enough slack that the throttle rests on the stop screw. If you've got this overly tight it definitely effects you idle(IDL) signal.
I thank U'all for the diagrams and comments. I took pictures of the accelerator cable before removing and tried to maintain the original cable for comparison then followed the photo as close as possible; although it seemed once I set the cable to rest on the stop there was not much room for any further adjustments. Seems the solution is so close, starts and idles fine, hovers around 700 rpm, but there is a sweet spot where the engine is inclined to stall, get beyond that point the truck drives fine?
I am not sure how the distributor can be off when I took particular care replacing the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, yet it appears to be off, that may be where I start?
I thank U'all for the diagrams and comments. I took pictures of the accelerator cable before removing and tried to maintain the original cable for comparison then followed the photo as close as possible; although it seemed once I set the cable to rest on the stop there was not much room for any further adjustments. Seems the solution is so close, starts and idles fine, hovers around 700 rpm, but there is a sweet spot where the engine is inclined to stall, get beyond that point the truck drives fine?
I am not sure how the distributor can be off when I took particular care replacing the cap, rotor, wires, and plugs, yet it appears to be off, that may be where I start?
Again, Thank you!!
Emphasis is mine.
Yes that wouldn't be a bad place to start, comparing the old against the new. I recall some of these out there that are "wrong" don't recall if it was the cap had wrong angles or the arms on the rotor were too short, or both, they add up to giving a weak spark
Replaced MAS, Zoom-Zoom, now runs great!!Lesson learned had I not tampered with the TPS, which still worked, and the MAS, which I damaged, and discovered the frayed cable beforehand I would have saved time and $$$$$?? This is not the first nor last time I end up putting out $$$ for stupidity, hopefully, next time I get the urge to tamper it will be a reminder although it has not done so in the past?
Mar 28, 2020 | 10:15 AM
Lesson learned had I not tampered with the TPS, which still worked, and the MAS, which I damaged, and discovered the frayed cable beforehand I would have saved time and $$$$$?? This is not the first nor last time I end up putting out $$$ for stupidity, hopefully, next time I get the urge to tamper it will be a reminder although it has not done so in the past?
