antondubbs

Alright, So here is the pickle. I embarked on changing out the knock sensor and wire (came with purchase of 4Runner) and that turned into gaskets (not heads), water pump, timing belt with idler and tension change (checked the marks for alignment three times before being satisfied. Did not want to fudge it all up) and an EGR delete kit from LCE. upon putting everything back together, I was having few little issues.

At first, she didnt want to idle on her own. Fixed that with sourcing some vacuum leaks and she came to. I was waiting on some crush washers to come in after I had put it all back together (forget to order after swapping out some injectors) so I had to take it apart when I got them. Without paying attention, I placed the plenum on top of the battery terminal while I still had the ground wire connected. I put it back together again, it ran for four Texas size blocks, and it just completely shuts off. Not a loss of power, it 100% cut out and would not come back to life. After sitting for about twenty minutes, I got it back home where it sits and will not start. It cranks, it sparks, but it does not fire.

The knock sensor is not connected to the ECU because someone before me screwed the wires up. I pulled them out and havent found the time to install the RG58 (or whatever it is) wire to reconnect (unless someone can source the factory wire number!!). I do not think the knock sensor connected would cause all of this to happen but you never know. I did not change the damper but have seen it probably would have been a smart idea to do. I do get fuel to both rails just have not confirmed pressure.

I have not checked cold start injector switch, fuel pump, or the injectors themselves. Before I just started throwing parts at it, I wanted a little direction given. If anyone could help, thats cool. If not, thats cool also. I have answers to whatever I havent made clear already. Thanks!!

antondubbs

After thoughtful time, I narrowed the issue down to a vacuum leak in the plenum (EGR Modulator) and a jumper wire shorting out/losing continuity. I replaced the wire and plugged the leak.

Now the issue is I can get it to crank and fire but only for a few seconds before it cuts out. I would like to assume there is not enough furl pressure or the injectors are not working properly due to the harness being old as dirt. However, I dont want to throw more money into it without knowing all ways have been tested and diagnosis is narrowed down to one issue. My question is, where do I even start? I have read about the noid light test and have seen the dizzy being turned out 180 degrees but I have not taken the dizzy out at all.

Any pointers?

Kolton5543

If it ran before but now it doesn't have fuel from the injectectors then one of two things likely happened. One you pinched some wires or left a ground disconnected. Neither of these are likely as you say it starts and runs for a couple seconds. Option two is the air flow meter. What many people don't understand is that the injectors still fire while cranking. The cold start injector is there just to richen up the mixture a little when its cold. If it isn't cold out its possible for the CSI to not even fire at all. It likely won't put out enough fuel to run at all. Maybe a few attempts to fire but thats about it. Usually what causes your problem is the fuel pump being turned off. The fuel pump is controlled initially by the crank signal. After the engine starts and the key is switched back to the run position the fuel pump control switches to a signal from the air flow meter. If this is unplugged, disconnected from the intake or any major leak downstream from it or if a ground circuit to it is disconnected, it will not send a fuel pump turn on signal. This means the fuel pump turns off and the engine dies.

As for a jumper wire you spoke of earlier. You should get rid of it and wire it correctly. Jumpers are for testing purposes, not permanent fixes. The intake laying on the battery is just a no no to begin with. Let alone with a ground wire still connected. And how long is that ground? The stock body ground is only a few inches long.

antondubbs

The word jumper was the wrong verbiage. It is actually the lead wire that goes from under the EFI relay within the engine fuse compartment to the battery terminal.

We also noticed that while it was running, the Intake Air Flow Assembly was hot as in you touch it and you get shocked. Could this correlate? I did the Fp to B+ and still did not run. So I assume the IAF is not the issue at all.

My other speculation is injector harness. My brother suggested maybe a security fault that would shut the truck off if I had disconnected the battery, which I did. However, I dont know of any security on the vehicle as PO did not mention anything.

Kolton5543

Unless its aftermarket there should be no security system to shut down the truck. The AFM should not be live in any way. I would look into that. What kinda shock was it? Like a light sting or tingle or a straight put you on your butt shock. If its a small tingle then it's possible a wire is shorted to it somewhere or the AFM itself is shorted internally. If its a bad shock, the ignition coil wire should run either under or over the intake. Was it the wire that got you?

antondubbs

The sting/tingle came from direct contact to the AFM/IAF itself. The coil wire is above the first elbow intake tube before the collector. I wish I could imitate the shock so I could volt test and see where it could be sourcing from but cannot get it to run without knowing what is wrong. I noticed that the part number 22250-65010 is no longer available. My question then is do I purchase a BWD or is there another, better option that will be as close to factory production.

antondubbs

With the MAF shorting out, will it contribute to the engine not wanting to stay running or idle? That is what is stumping me at the moment. I dont know what all pays into the idle that would stop it completely after start up.

Also looking in to IAC and TPS and possible parts to replace.

akwheeler

First, 12 volt systems don't have enough voltage for you to feel a shock when you touch the wires. So your shock that you feel has to be coming from something like the spark plug wires.
Second, if your coil wire is shorting out you are not getting the spark you need at the spark plugs.
Third, if you wait until dark and try starting it you will likely see where the short is.

antondubbs

I did the test while it was dark. I did not notice any arching from any plug wires or coil wire. In general, I did not see any arching at all. I did, however, hear a shutter noise (like a butterfly is opening and closing) come from the MAF or TPS area (cannot pin point it as I am the only one to start and listen and observe). I heard it a few times before but did not pay any mind to it. I know on my Cadillac the TPS was the issue when I had a similar issue.

Not sure if this is further help but after I crank it over and it fires for that split moment, I have to shut the key completely off before I can get it to repeat cranking and firing for a moment (in other words, if I try to crank it under the same ignition cycle without resetting the key in to the off position it will only crank after the initial moment of firing).

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I have never gotten any codes for the Air Flow Meter unless you leave the cable disconnected. Only way I have ever gotten a code for the AFM. I have had some bad AFM. Test it per a Haynes Manual and see if the flapper operates smoothly.

If the EGR Delete was not installed correctly that could cause some vacuum leaks which will cause all kinds of problems. I used to be Anti-EGR but when cleaned and working properly it is not a problem.

antondubbs

I also did a code test today. 41 and 51 were the only two present. Since both revolve around TPS, I think I will for the change and get it ordered-even though I don't want to because I am not convinced this will fix the issue.

RAD4Runner

Sorry... what year Escalade are we talking about here? ... pls see signature

When you keep ignition in start position do you maintain combustion? What happens when you release the key? Do you hear anything click?

How about now, Have you already?

What did not run, the fuel pump or the truck?

Yes, and O.P. should hear C.O.R. click ON behind glove compartment, IF it is a 22RE ( I don't know about others. See signature)

Yes, and O.P. should hear C.O.R. click OFF behind glove compartment, IF it is a 22RE ( I don't know about others. See signature)

Could be. There are crimps on ECU to injector wires under the intake manifold (schematic here). Those get brittle/corroded could have been broken from all the work you've done.

Nate Allan

Before spending money on this issue, I would definitely do some more tests, I would start fresh, not having attempted to start the vehicle, start and run for it for a short period of time, leave the Ignition ON, in the same cycle, as in don't turn it all the way off as you mentioned previously, and check your voltage at your fuel pump. One of the previous posters said earlier if the sensor that is not connected in your engine compartment is the one that's supposed to be sending the signal for the fuel pump to activate after initial start up and it is disconnected, you will not have voltage to the fuel pump with the Ignition in the on position during the same starting cycle, If you DO have voltage, then your issue is somewhere else, but this is just a simple thing to test with a multi meter to prevent you from throwing money at the vehicle...

antondubbs

I found the issue in the wire harness it self. It seems the injector plugs-particularly 1, 3, and 5) lose continuity every time you hit a bump. I can move the harness one way and it will fire and run without any hiccups. The moment I move the harness the opposing direction, it will cut off and you cannot get it to fire back up. So, I am trying to track down a complete harness to replace but it seems 82121 is discontinued. I have found ACDelco plugs that can be soldered in but am hesitant to make that move. I will also be ordering a complete injector set becuase, well, it is only money.

Nate Allan

Just to let you know if you find an electronic store they should be able to provide you a specialty set of pliers as well as brand new crimp on connectors that will fit into the plug if you take some type of sewing needle and use it to take the old metal connectors out of the plug, take it with you or if you don't feel comfortable doing that get one from a junkyard to take with you cut it off of a wrecked truck, whatever the case might be, they should be able to get you the right type of connector and pliers to be able to cut the bad connections off of your wiring harness and just crimp brand new connectors on to the good wires that is left

Nate Allan

Also another option is to try and locate new connectors with pins and bare leads already attached to solder on to your wiring harness with shrink wrap, which might be an easier as well as cheaper option for you to be able to avoid purchasing solder in injectors, if yours are fine, Regardless having permanently mounted injectors to your wiring harness is not the correct solution. Fix it right, or you'll darn sure find the time to fix it again.....

scope103

If you're losing all three left-side injectors at the same time, it probably is NOT the connectors to the injectors. (and it is almost certainly NOT the injectors themselves, or the VAF, or any of the other parts you've been talking about replacing at random).

The left side injectors are wired together, and the right side are wired together separately. (they all fire at the same time, though). So you probably have a broken wire in the harness that goes TO the injectors. You'll need to very carefully unwrap the harness working back until you find the break. This is tedious, but there is no other way to find it. You'll need to remove some components; trying to pull the harness while it's threaded through the plenum will just break something else.

The connectors to the injectors DO wear out; usually the plastic clip that locks it into place will break. If yours warrant replacement, you'll need to get a set of the plastic connector bodies with the metal connector, and the crimp tool. (You won't find these at any electronics store, but search here as many of us have replaced ours.) OR, you can get them with pigtails already crimped on, and you'll have to splice the wires together. I think that's bush-league, but many do it.

antondubbs

Update:

Upon deeper inspection of the wire harness I found that the injector harness was split in multiple places. Now on to the next issue.