Second Blown HG on 3VZE: Desperate
Apr 20, 2009 | 02:39 PM
#142
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From: Harrisburg, PA
You didn't happen to hook up the battery backwards, did you? Someone did that to mine last year and it blew the same fusible link, and toasted my alternator. Just something to keep in mind lol. You don't have to admit it if that's what you did, but if you did, keep your eye out for these things
Apr 20, 2009 | 04:24 PM
#143
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
No, I think it blew a long time ago when i was pulling everything apart. It's been so damn long I'm having a helluva time remembering where all the blasted vacuum hoses go (like a newb!).
Apr 25, 2009 | 10:05 AM
#147
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
Apr 25, 2009 | 10:53 AM
#149
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
The only code I'm getting is 41, TPS. It was unplugged & I replugged it so I should be good now. What the hell is up with that IDLE??
I need ideas, guys.
CHeck how much it was SMOKING when I started it!
I need ideas, guys.
CHeck how much it was SMOKING when I started it!
Last edited by TNRabbit; Apr 25, 2009 at 10:57 AM.
Its like my truck finally just started up..
Apr 27, 2009 | 01:05 AM
#156
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From: NW Ark on wooded ten acres...Ozarks at large!
So, what was the idle problem?
Bigger question............how in the hell did you manage to get 210psi? Wow! What......were the valves too tight or something? Have you run a compression test recently?
Bigger question............how in the hell did you manage to get 210psi? Wow! What......were the valves too tight or something? Have you run a compression test recently?
Apr 27, 2009 | 02:55 AM
#157
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
I drove her into work today; so far so good!
the idle problem was the EGR valve; it's FUBAR so I unplugged the vacuum hose from it and it works like a charm. I'll stop by Radio Shack today & get a resistor so I don't have to look at the CHECK ENGINE light the rest of my life.
I'm guessing the 210 psi compression is from the original HG recall by the dealer. It was done about 3000 miles before I bought the truck in 2000 (it had 92k on it at the time & looked like a new truck). It's always had that since I've owned it. I changed the mixture by moving the VAFM adjustment 3 clicks richer to compensate for the higher compression. It still sounds like it runs out of air above 5k RPM but I've been chasing that demon for over 4 years now & have just about given up on it. I haven't done a compression test since putting her back together, because it's a PITA to take all 6 spark plugs out..!
The valves were within tolerance when I rebuilt the engine, so no changes made there. I DID torque the head bolts down about 1/16 turn beyond what the FSM said for torque, which ended up being @120 ft/lbs. One thing I did was a suggestion from Ted @ engbldr and that was to torque everything down to the 1st 90 degree turn then back them all off to zero & start over again (chasing the threads down). I was also concerned about bottoming the head bolts down so I took a Dremel tool & ground down the ends just a touch (not into the threads). So far so good.
The real test will be I have to tow our boat @ 80 miles to get it serviced (SeaDoo jet boat). Total towing weight will be in the neighborhood of 2000 lbs. I'm more than a little nervous about this, but if it isn't going to take the heat, I don't want it under the hood.
Things are getting dicey with the economy & me right now, so if it craps out, I'll probably just part the entire truck out. It would kill me to do it, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do....
the idle problem was the EGR valve; it's FUBAR so I unplugged the vacuum hose from it and it works like a charm. I'll stop by Radio Shack today & get a resistor so I don't have to look at the CHECK ENGINE light the rest of my life.
I'm guessing the 210 psi compression is from the original HG recall by the dealer. It was done about 3000 miles before I bought the truck in 2000 (it had 92k on it at the time & looked like a new truck). It's always had that since I've owned it. I changed the mixture by moving the VAFM adjustment 3 clicks richer to compensate for the higher compression. It still sounds like it runs out of air above 5k RPM but I've been chasing that demon for over 4 years now & have just about given up on it. I haven't done a compression test since putting her back together, because it's a PITA to take all 6 spark plugs out..!
The valves were within tolerance when I rebuilt the engine, so no changes made there. I DID torque the head bolts down about 1/16 turn beyond what the FSM said for torque, which ended up being @120 ft/lbs. One thing I did was a suggestion from Ted @ engbldr and that was to torque everything down to the 1st 90 degree turn then back them all off to zero & start over again (chasing the threads down). I was also concerned about bottoming the head bolts down so I took a Dremel tool & ground down the ends just a touch (not into the threads). So far so good.
The real test will be I have to tow our boat @ 80 miles to get it serviced (SeaDoo jet boat). Total towing weight will be in the neighborhood of 2000 lbs. I'm more than a little nervous about this, but if it isn't going to take the heat, I don't want it under the hood.
Things are getting dicey with the economy & me right now, so if it craps out, I'll probably just part the entire truck out. It would kill me to do it, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do....
Last edited by TNRabbit; Apr 27, 2009 at 06:25 AM.
Apr 27, 2009 | 03:10 AM
#158
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From: Burlington, VT
Cool beans man. I'm sure the motor will hold up, man.d
I could do this with a thread tap before I put my heads on, right?
I could do this with a thread tap before I put my heads on, right?
Apr 27, 2009 | 03:25 AM
#159
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From: TENN Native Languishing in Virginia
I sprayed PB Blaster in my bolt holes & let it sit for a few days, then blew it out with a long, thin air sprayer & 150 psi. Then I ran cotton cloth down into them to get out any other residue, blew them out again, the installed the head. I torqued them down like Ted said (it pre-flattens the HG), then backed off & re-torqued. This helps to get a more consistent pressure & helps avoid needing to re-torque the head bolts later (A GIGANTIC pain with the 3vze). SO, the short answer is, you need to go through the entire process for it to work correctly. I also put STP Oil Treatment (a GREAT assembly lube) on the threads & under the head bolt washers.
Last edited by TNRabbit; Apr 27, 2009 at 03:27 AM.
Apr 27, 2009 | 05:36 AM
#160
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From: Atlanta, GA
Thats way funny. I just got done doing the heads on mine. my power is also down. i have a tvv valve on the way (one of the outlets broke) therefore the bottom outlet is wide open and the vacuum line it goes to is capped. could that be the power loss?? or should i be checkin the EGR
