It is really easy to do, I've done it a couple times on my vehicles and once on a friends lumina and it works great, double clamping is the trick :}

Ps. One my first start up I had a fuel leak too, but luckily it was just because I didn't tighten the under the fuel rail fuel line 17mm banjo bolt, duh :}LOL

 

ohh ok. thanks! I'll pick up an FI fuel hose, and double clamp it on? if needed, in the future I could probably go to my uncles, and work with it there. he's got a heated garage and a hoist, and tons of tools. I'll try the pipe idea, for now at least

 

hey john, what exactly do you mean by double clamp? just 2 clamps on each end?

EDIT: nvm i figured it out, lol

 

Yepper, 2 clamps on each end when connecting a FI rubber hose to metal tubes on FI engines, be sure you use the right size, of to big it will pinch the rubber and not surround the rubber equally around to seal it, and place the process of making the clamp biggger or small like the screw kind or pinch clamps opisite of the other so they don't line up, put one up then put the other like down... Good Luck and have fun :}

 

omg,you guys have a lot of rust problem in the states

 

I'm in atlantic canada actually, lol. lots of rust issues, my moms car has a whole in the rocker that a soft ball could fit through.. lol.. thats why im storing my car for the winters.

I put on the line, tried starting, didnt start. looked under hood, gas squirting out, where the fuel thing bolts onto the intake air chamber. Im pretty sure the washers are there. Tightened it up more, tried again, i dont think its comin out from there anymore, going to get my mom to watch while i start it once she can come out. Hoping my battery doesnt die soon from turning it over so much, plus its been cold.

 

check the fuel damper,they leak at time.

 

Is the fuel damper just that bolt at the end of the fuel rail? I don't think its leaking from there

I also don't have these plugged in, was hoping it'd just be emissions that would suffer if they weren't plugged in, I almost had everything back together when I realized they wouldn't reach, because I put the wiring harness under the fuel rail stupidly..



It keeps puffing out pops of smoke, i can't tell from where, smells kinda weird. My next step will be taking apart the intake side again, and putting the harness over the rail, so they'll reach, and try again with them plugged in. For now, I need to catch up on some school..

 

Okay, so worked on the truck today, got them plugged in now, but still won't start. Its smoking when it turns over. Going to get some help now, my friends friend apparently is right into Toyota, hes got a 2wd at my school. I'm gonna ask him if he can get it going, if not I'll tow it to a garage. Their charges should be way less than the original head gasket price would be, so I'm not looking at it as a total fail.. yet. lol.

 

Could it be possible the distributor is throwing off timing? I think I've got it about the same spot it was before. I know it could cause a misfire if its not in the right spot, but could it do so much as to not even start? I've got lots of gas, new plugs and wires, maybe I need the check into the vacuum hoses. But I didn't think they could stop the whole engine from starting, maybe I was wrong..

 

What is it doing when you turn it over? is it kicking, hit and miss? What? Timing could definitely be a problem. I ended up having my distributor off a tooth and too advance and it wouldnt start unless I floored it and then it ran like crap. But you'd hear it with the starter turning the engine then stopping or slowing down. What color is the smoke?

 

What do you mean by kicking, hit and miss? As in like, it starts to fire, but then stops? Its not really doing anything, its not catching at all. Like, doesn't seem close to starting. Haven't tried touching the gas pedal. I do believe I lined the distributor gear up right, but not sure about like, how you can twist the distributor by loosening it's bolt. I don't think I hear anything either, its basically a clean turning over sound, except a weird sound it made once, but hasn't made it since. :s Can't really tell if the smokes a color, seems white maybe? or greyish.

 

Hmm. Even when its off the thing should kick, and I mean, you hear and feel it have at least one cylinder fire at least once. I'd verify you have spark and fuel.

 

Yeah, thats what I was thinking..

Not 100% sure on how to verify that. After taking off the fuel rail, had some spray, and pour out while it was off. Would that guarantee its getting fuel? I suppose it could be getting stuck in the injectors, but they worked before, I doubt they would all completely clog up at once since then, right?

For getting spark, its got new plugs and wires, the NGK come labelled so they should be installed in the right order.. maybe its something to do with the distributor.. Should I remove one spark plug wire at a time and try starting it, and see if the wire sparks? Did that with my civic before, but I think I made sure it was grounded before I started it or something.. The distributors plugged in too. hmm..

 

Well an easy way to check if fuel is at least reaching the cylinders is to turn it over with out the plugs and you'll smell it. I did that just to prime my oil pump. I sure smelled the fuel. I forgot to pull the efi fuse. Make sure the distributor is not plugged in, or the coil/igniter.

Grab a screw driver and stick it in the plug boot on a wire and see if it throws a spark to the valve cover.

 

doing some troubleshooting tonight, ill keep you guys up to date on how it goes

I'm looking at the emissions control diagram with the vacuum hoses in my haynes manual, the 1989 22re doesn't look the same, but the 1990 does. Looks like the hoses weren't right when I bought the truck. Maybe the engines out of a 1990+ or something. Anyways, maybe re-arranging these half a dozen hoses will help it start

 

So we thought it was the fuel pump for quite a while, couldn't hear it priming.

Turns out its off timing!!!!!

We took off the intake, and tried rolling it over. It keeps shooting flames out the intake, so the intake valves must be open when its firing.. would explain why its not kicking at all, and why its getting fuel and spark, but not starting! The chain must have had too much slack at one point, and came off timing on the bottom pulley thing..

One part of me wants to tow it to a garage, and pay them out my ass to get just it fixed and over with. But the other wants me to work non-stop on it for hours on end, preparing for exams at the same time, and get this thing finished before christmas..

I'm gonna put some dry socks on, and let myself fill with motivation, lol. Setting the timing should be interesting and another first, I should probably replace the timing chain while its off, hell, maybe some more stuff too. Suggestions?

Will my headgasket be ok? Do I need to loosen the head bolts to change the timing chain? I don't, right? So the HG should be fine

 

valve cover- take it off
oil pan- drop it

you now have access to both sides of the timing chain. set to tdc, and see where your "bright links" line up. if they're off, squeeze the tensioner and allow for slack in the chain. then adjust the chain to line up, and release the tensioner. probably easier with 2 people, and shouldn't take too long. the only thing you'll need to get extra is some more rtv for the oil pan

 

Wow, that would be 10x easier! oh wait, I have to drop the diff, to drop the oil pan.. correct? Still may be easier..

I'll read into how to adjust the tensioner, and look for my bright links again. I looked for a few seconds before while it was apart, didn't see any different links near the top, I'll look again. Theres no replacement gasket for the pan, only RTV gasket maker is used? Oh, I see lots of pics on your re-build thread, I'll browse through that

Thanks a bunch

 

most people don't use an oil pan gasket, as they tend to leak a bit. rtv is cheap, readily available, and easy to apply. make sure the mating surfases are clean before applying rtv. once you start to squeeze rtv out from between the surfaces, stop and let it cure for an hour or so. then continue to tighten it on. you may not have to drop the diff, as you can probably do all your work with the pan resting on the diff. though, if it's too much of a pain, there's only 3 bolts for the diff.

the tensioner is self-adjusting. when i said to squeeze the tensioner, i meant to press it in with a screwdriver or something to give you enough slack in the chain.