Hey Jason, Thanks for the good details, am planning to do this job this week. Question: if I want to take the oil cooler off but leave hoses on can I just crimp the lower to save the coolant and just disconnect cooler from the top{water} do I need to crimp that one also,can't imagine much water pumping out.Thanks for your help.
Mark
Truckee,Ca.

 

Bringing back an old thread but mine is now leaking pretty bad on start up so it looks like I will be replacing the seals. A couple of questions first: do I need to drain the oil and coolant? Also is the part number for the seal kit 1036? Thanks in advance.

 

Paul, I just replaced the Oring and gasket where the bolt goes thru. I drained the oil but did not remove the coolant lines so didn't need to drain the coolant. the Oring # is 90301-61003 and the gasket is #15785-35010. I changed them without taking the cooler out by leaving coolant lines attached and working with a small needle nose pliers and a dental pic,quite easy to do.Both were pretty rotten and with new gaskets it doesn't leak a drop in well over a year now. Hope that helps.
Mark

 

Thanks Mark, I found the seal kit, 3 seals, on Ebay for around $13.

 

Well I finally got around to doing this today as the weather finally improved enough to not sweat buckets while working. Anyway, I took off the tire and heat shield and what a pain in the butt it was to change those seals especially the large one. I left the cooler attached and trying to get the seal under the tabs with so little room was a major pain. All told it took me about 2 hours from start to finish but thankfully it worked and happy to report, no more leaks. I also left the oil in and only lost about 1/2 a quart at the most.

 

 

When I got my 1990 Toyota Pickup 10ish years ago I replaced all the coolant hoses and didn't think I was getting any water flow through the oil cooler, that the feed from the block was clogged and likely the cooler itself. I am presently replacing the timing belt including installing a new water pump, and noticed that water didn't flow out of the hose from the cooler when I disconnected it from the water pump, kind of confirming what I had noticed before. I seem to remember that the original hose between the block and the cooler was clogged with anti-leak goo and that the blockage extended into the nipple in the block. My question is do I really want to get the oil cooler to function, or should I leave it as it is with no flow, or should I plug the fitting(s) so the cooler itself had no coolant in it so it could not possibly leak coolant. If I don't fix the cooler is it fine to just leave it installed with new seals, or is it better to use an elimination kit? I run synthetic oil and very seldom tow anything, I do do a fair amount of driving on old mining roads but don't do much of any serious 4-wheeling. The rig lives in the desert but is only used during the winter months, but I would hate to have to walk 20 miles out to a main road because of a leaking oil cooler. Thanks.