dntsdad

After month of oil leaking everywhere I finally did it today. $12.00 for parts and about an hour of work.

I went from the bottom. I have read about taking off wheel and heat shield but I didnt need to do any of that. 4" lift, no body lift.

I left all the hoses attached as well and replaced the Orings with it all connected. Easy as pie honestly. Have a drain pan ready; you will lose about 1/2 qt. oil. This I forgot until it was too late Damn mess everywhere!!!

Info for guys searching later:
24mm for the large center bolt, and 14mm for the keeper bracket. The washer with the seal in the center was hard to see and I almost missed it. Had to clean the bolt really well before I saw it attached and then had to wedge it apart with a small screwdriver and then trash and replace. The seal on the inside half (the small one) was hard to see at first since I was doing this one the truck. A small dental pick took it out in notime. Easy to get new one back in.

If you guys have an oil leak, take it on.

Tubbyfatty

No pics? haha jk.

Sounds like it was an easy job tho.

dntsdad

I planned on doing some pics but oil and my camera dont mix. sorry.

RMA

Didnt know this until just now reading your post, but there are 2 diffrent large center bolts 24mm like you explained and also 10mm hex .

I found 2 1990 3.0's with the 10mm hex center bolt.
my 1994 runner 3.0 has 24mm center bolt.
my 1988 4runner 3.0 has 24m center bolt.

TNRabbit

GREAT GOOGAMOOGA! That 24 meter center bolt must take one helluva socket...

clocklaw

OK, I was searching this morning to figure out if this thing comes apart to remove the o-rings, if I understand you correctly, you do not have to take anything apart (or bend the tabs out) just pick the old one out and slide the new one in?

vandert

Your correct, take it off the block, I cleaned mine while it was off, and then put the 2 new o-rings back on, one is kinda in there under a lip, was easy but I'm one who took the heat shields off due to making it much easier with no lift like on mine.

xxxtreme22r

PICS, I want pics lol. Been thinking of retrofitting mine with some junkyard finds, but not sure which years/engines I need to pull them from. Probably be cheaper than buying an aftermarket one.

clocklaw

Pictures as requested. I only had my Camera phone with me but it has a pretty good camera:

Oil Cooler laying on the workbench, you can see to the left that I have already ripped out the old gasket:


Old gaskets vs. new gaskets:


New outer gasket installed, working the inner gasket in:


Complete.....took about 5 minutes once the cooler was off and wiped down:


FYI, if the motor is in this position it is VERY EASY to accomplish the repair:

dntsdad

LOL. Ah thats the trick.....pull the motor to change those Orings LOL

NoahTheExplora

I pretty sure I need to reseal mine as well. It's either this or the oil pan directly under it. So there is only 2 seals one inner and one outer correct? Also my leak only last about 3-6 minutes after startup would this give a clue of wether it's the pan or cooler.
Thanks everybody i think this is my first post but iv been reading for like 6 months and have saved about 2000$ + from doing several repairs myself thanks to yotatech.

dntsdad

there are three.

The large Oring(2nd pics above), the small oring(3rd pic above), and the sealing washer(goes on with the bolt.

rlordjr

So glad to read this and bump it up! I'm going to do this tonite. My local Toyota Technical Gurus (Toyotech!) said only worry with the outer gasket (the big one). And I was planning to do it without removing the hoses (or the engine!) so I was glad to read that's what you did. And only a 1/2 quart! Jeepers, I was going to drain the whole motor.

rlordjr

Pretty easy indeed. I did pull the small heat shield bolted to the frame there to get a bit more room. My original (had to be) O-ring required some digging and some gasket remover to get out. PITA. It was hard and the big bolt holding it all on didn't seem to be very tight at all. Torque is only 43 ftlb but still felt too easy to remove. Anyway, new rubbery O-ring in place, wiped all the oil off that I could see, drove it around a bit and then parked it over a fresh piece of driveway. We'll see in the morning how I did!

stuforbes

First and fore most I know nothing about cars. I want to learn how to take care of the 94 4x4 pick-up I bought my daughter. Money's tight. But I digress. I have been unable to find directions for replacing the oil cooler seals. I am new to the sight, so it is probabley my fault I can't find it. Sorry. This is also a manual transmission. Not sure that makes any difference. Would appreciate any help on this matter. Thanks.

rhnt

just did this, i disconnected the two bolts one 14 and the other 1 inch (it was all i had but i worked) pulled out the outer o ring, barrowed neighbors car and ran down to the parts store. they didnt have it sooooo i asked them how about an oil filter gasket. the guy grabs a micrometer and measured it (284mm i think it was). he looked it up and wahlah 95 landcruiser 3.5l oil filter gasket did the trick and get this $5 bucks wooohooo. so if anything happens ill let you guys know.

ps this is my first post. been reading stuff on this site for years now and i just want to say thanks to all you yota fans out there, youre a big help!!!

bwilbert53

Reviewed this thread then took on replacing the gaskets/seals on my 1991 pickup 3VZE oil cooler. Took off drivers side front tire to access. Did not remove the coolant lines, just removed the heat shield, keeper bracket bolt and center bolt and let it hang while pulling gaskets and replacing.

Center bolt was biggest problem because I didn't have the correct wrench size and had to use a 10" crescent . . . just barely got it oriented & fit over the bolt-head. I believe it is between 26-28mm??

Hope the pictures clarify the job. I had more, but struggling to get more than 3 attachments in a posting - first timer, sorry.

mark3913

Hi, i'm a newbie and this is my first post,thanks for your patience. I have diagnosed a oil cooler leak,have read some great posts here but have a few questions. Can I remove the oil cooler without taking off the two attached hoses by clamping or blocking the lines.Also any other tips would be great. I was told a new oil cooler ran about $800 and that is out of my budget.I'm hoping it's the O ring and gaskets.Have already removed heat shield. Thanks in advance.
Mark

clocklaw

just an FYI, my new engine (yes the new new engine) has a block off plate over the oil cooler, and it is bypassed.

mark3913

Thank you, I don't have that block off plate and the additional info on the thread is very helpful. I guess I'll just try and replace seals without removing the hoses and keep a jug and oil pan handy handy just in case.