Recent radiator replacements
#1
Recent radiator replacements
It's finally time for another radiator and was wondering who makes an all METAL Brass/copper unit to fit in my '91 4Runner 3VZE 3.0 auto trans 4x4 A/C. Research has yielded the CFS brand model 2056 and of course a factory Toyota which cost more than the truck is worth!
Actually, I bought it new in 1991 and other than needing a new radiator, it's 100%. Just under half million miles, and still in love with this vehicle!
Actually, I bought it new in 1991 and other than needing a new radiator, it's 100%. Just under half million miles, and still in love with this vehicle!
#2
I bought my 87 pickup in 88. A few years later, lets guess around 91 or so, I put an all metal, 3 core, radiator in it. I lived in Arizona at the time, where a 100° afternoon is cool and comfortable. It's STILL in it. The same radiator. I'm getting close to replacing it, and it runs just slightly above mid throw on the gauge now. I've looked, and a lot of the down-tubes are either restricted or blocked completely.
I've talked to radiator shops, and it's actually either the same price, roughly, or more, to have the tubes rodded out, as it costs for a new radiator. Like a CSF, all metal, 3 core, just for example
Does this help any? Remember to change all 3 radiator hoses. Bottom, top, and jumper from the riser pipe into the water pump. Also, check that the water pump isn't got much, if any, water coming out of the weep hole under the pulley. Check the thermostat to make sure it's opening and closing properly, and replace it's gasket. Check the condition of the belt that runs the water pump and alternator. If it fails...
I replace the hoses and belts at least every 2 or 3 years, sometimes every year. It's payed dividends big time for me. I lube the u joints, double cardan (at least on my 4Runner before I sold it), replace the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, and plug wires, oil and filter (I don't drive as far as I did when I was working), bleed the brakes, including the LSPV, and flush the radiator, all every year. Without fail. I keep the old parts in the truck. That habit has saved my bacon more than once.
Good luck!
Pat☺
I've talked to radiator shops, and it's actually either the same price, roughly, or more, to have the tubes rodded out, as it costs for a new radiator. Like a CSF, all metal, 3 core, just for example

Does this help any? Remember to change all 3 radiator hoses. Bottom, top, and jumper from the riser pipe into the water pump. Also, check that the water pump isn't got much, if any, water coming out of the weep hole under the pulley. Check the thermostat to make sure it's opening and closing properly, and replace it's gasket. Check the condition of the belt that runs the water pump and alternator. If it fails...
I replace the hoses and belts at least every 2 or 3 years, sometimes every year. It's payed dividends big time for me. I lube the u joints, double cardan (at least on my 4Runner before I sold it), replace the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, and plug wires, oil and filter (I don't drive as far as I did when I was working), bleed the brakes, including the LSPV, and flush the radiator, all every year. Without fail. I keep the old parts in the truck. That habit has saved my bacon more than once.
Good luck!
Pat☺
#3
Yes, a big help Thanks for your input. Just did water pump, idlers, timing belt, thermostat and all drive belts... the radiator had a small pin hole in the top which I was able to repair with JB Weld. Even though the leak is gone, it's a sign that the radiator needs to be replaced just due to age. Never overheated, no reason to take a chance. Fully expect to do a 3 core since that's what it came with. Would like to know if the CSF brand is reliable/durable and worthy of installation in a Toyota! Appears it is the only brass/copper even offered now except for the OEM Toyota for $600 ~ or so!
#6
I replaced the radiator in my 1991 3VZE 4wd truck with the CSF about a year ago. The first one I got had a pinhole leak near the top hose connection, but whomever I bought it from (I'm thinking maybe JEGS) replaced it without any hassle for me. The radiator fits perfectly and the replacement hasn't given any problems at all.
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#8
Thanks for responding!
If I want to stick with brass/copper, there is no other choice from what I'm gathering. Hard to understand how a new radiator can have a pin hole out of the box since they claim to be pressure testing prior to releasing to the market but like anything else, it can happen, It is tempting to drop the new one off at a radiator shop and have them test it before installing to save 2 installs! Glad your 2nd one was good.... time to roll the dice and get this done! Thanks again!
If I want to stick with brass/copper, there is no other choice from what I'm gathering. Hard to understand how a new radiator can have a pin hole out of the box since they claim to be pressure testing prior to releasing to the market but like anything else, it can happen, It is tempting to drop the new one off at a radiator shop and have them test it before installing to save 2 installs! Glad your 2nd one was good.... time to roll the dice and get this done! Thanks again!
Last edited by Sequoia'd; Jul 15, 2022 at 01:09 PM.
#9
Thanks for responding!
If I want to stick with brass/copper, there is no other choice from what I'm gathering. Hard to understand how a new radiator can have a pin hole out of the box since they claim to be pressure testing prior to releasing to the market but like anything else, it can happen, It is tempting to drop the new one off at a radiator shop and have them test it before installing to save 2 installs! Glad your 2nd one was good.... time to roll the dice and get this done! Thanks again!
If I want to stick with brass/copper, there is no other choice from what I'm gathering. Hard to understand how a new radiator can have a pin hole out of the box since they claim to be pressure testing prior to releasing to the market but like anything else, it can happen, It is tempting to drop the new one off at a radiator shop and have them test it before installing to save 2 installs! Glad your 2nd one was good.... time to roll the dice and get this done! Thanks again!
#10
Best guess is some type of stress during shipping revealed a weak point that pressure testing did not expose. When they draw out the brass for the tank(s) there might be a "thin" place that passed only to fail once installed. I don't know.... wonder what the failure rate on a NIB radiator is?
#13
Just an update:
I went with the CSF-2056 radiator from Summit Racing and it is an OEM design. Easy install and fit was pretty close to the factory unit. Was about 1/4" taller but I had the room after considerable checking to make sure the hood would close.
Feeling like the ol' 91 is brand new again.... Water pump, timing belt, both idlers, thermostat, new drive belts, and my new radiator! just a shade under 500,000 miles and ready for another half million miles.
Thanks to those that replied!
I went with the CSF-2056 radiator from Summit Racing and it is an OEM design. Easy install and fit was pretty close to the factory unit. Was about 1/4" taller but I had the room after considerable checking to make sure the hood would close.
Feeling like the ol' 91 is brand new again.... Water pump, timing belt, both idlers, thermostat, new drive belts, and my new radiator! just a shade under 500,000 miles and ready for another half million miles.
Thanks to those that replied!
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