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Rear window problems on 1990 4Runner

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Old 11-03-2013, 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by clok
does anybody know if these 4 relays are found in the tailgate behind the rear panel ? and are they easy to get to ? thanks.
Driver Side rear panel, near the pocket there. Fairly easy to get to...
Old 11-03-2013, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by a51young
Driver Side rear panel, near the pocket there. Fairly easy to get to...
Ok I know about that one which is the main relay but are there 4 little black box type relays located inside the tailgate ? I can hear them click when I roll up the window using the keyhole but no clicking noise when trying to roll down the window ?
Old 11-03-2013, 08:40 PM
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My window goes up and down fine with the console switch, my gate switch needs to be rekeyed and doesn't work as my driver side door lock was apparently hungry one day and bit my original key in half. All new locks, except the gate lock, I forgot that one. My gate goes down sideways/wonky/wobbly due to a bad track right now, but goes up just fine. I'm not to worried, it's staying up for the next 6 months. The 1st 4 months will be -20 to -50 and my window won't go down period during that time unless in a heated garage, lol.
Old 11-03-2013, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by clok
this is the same problem i'm having.
Originally Posted by clok
Ok I know about that one which is the main relay but are there 4 little black box type relays located inside the tailgate ? I can hear them click when I roll up the window using the keyhole but no clicking noise when trying to roll down the window ?
Where do you hear the relays click? In the tail gate? They're not in the tailgate.
Locations and schematic are on my post here

Your console switch works up & down?
Key switch only works for up?
If so, looks like it's either the key switch is bad or its connection to pin 11 of relay is open.
Schematic is below (Ignore added switch- that's for my mod). If you're ready to do some checks, let me know.
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Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-03-2013 at 08:54 PM.
Old 11-03-2013, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
Where do you hear the relays click? In the tail gate? They're not in the tailgate.
Locations and schematic are on my post here

Your console switch works up & down?
Key switch only works for up?
If so, looks like it's either the key switch is bad or its connection to pin 11 of relay is open.
Schematic is below (Ignore added switch- that's for my mod). If you're ready to do some checks, let me know.
so should I replace the back door control switch first ? It looks like it's connected to pin 11 on the window relay , and where is the back door control switch located ?
Old 11-03-2013, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by clok
so should I replace the back door control switch first ? It looks like it's connected to pin 11 on the window relay , and where is the back door control switch located ?
No, don't throw parts and money into a problem without verifying what's broken- leave that to stealers and dishonest/incompetent mechanics. This forum is for doing things right and saving money. Backdoor switch is mechanically connected to the key. Maybe other members have pictures/write-ups.

You still have not answered my questions.
Does your console switch work up & down?
Key switch only works for up or down?

More questions:
Have you found the relay?
Are you able to disconnect connector so you can do tests?
Do you have a multi-meter?
You ready to do some tests?

We'll go from there.

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-03-2013 at 10:21 PM.
Old 11-04-2013, 05:50 AM
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I had the same issue, key didn't work for down but all other switches worked. I just spliced a new line in near the relay box and ran it to the key switch. Fixed my problem. Tested it first to see which wire and if it would fix it.
Old 11-04-2013, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by a51young
I just spliced a new line in near the relay box and ran it to the key switch. Fixed my problem. Tested it first to see which wire and if it would fix it.
Way to do it. Not sure if relay pin-outs and wire color on second gen V6 are same as our 22RE's... Was it pin 11, on yours, too? Quite possibly, the break would be wire loom flexes between tailgate and body.
Old 11-04-2013, 09:37 AM
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I dont recall which one it was
Old 11-04-2013, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RAD4Runner
No, don't throw parts and money into a problem without verifying what's broken- leave that to stealers and dishonest/incompetent mechanics. This forum is for doing things right and saving money. Backdoor switch is mechanically connected to the key. Maybe other members have pictures/write-ups.

You still have not answered my questions.
Does your console switch work up & down?
Key switch only works for up or down?

More questions:
Have you found the relay?
Are you able to disconnect connector so you can do tests?
Do you have a multi-meter?
You ready to do some tests?

We'll go from there.
yes my console switch work up and down.
Key switch only works going up. I know where the relay is at behind the rear drivers side panel. I would be able to disconnect connector because I replaced it about a year ago. No I don't have a multi-meter but might be able to borrow one tomorrow other wise I'm not ready to do some tests. So guess I have to get a hold of that multimeter first.
Old 11-04-2013, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by clok
yes my console switch work up and down.
Key switch only works going up. I know where the relay is at behind the rear drivers side panel. I would be able to disconnect connector because I replaced it about a year ago. No I don't have a multi-meter but might be able to borrow one tomorrow other wise I'm not ready to do some tests. So guess I have to get a hold of that multimeter first.
Cool. I strongly recommend getting you own. One job you do yourself without relying on a stealer or incompetent shop and the multi-meter would already pay for itself. Plus you'll save time and learn more things more quickly because you would not have to wait to borrow one every time you need it.

I don't want to beat up my nice Fluke so I reserve it for use at home in safe, clean environment; for rough-and-tumble conditions on the road, I got a model just a step up from this one

Advantage of having clamp-on ammeter is it's convenient, and will find good use for troubleshooting circuits that have high currents. i.e.:
How much current does it take to energize starter solenoid?
Run headlights?
How much current your alternator is really sending to electrical system? To battery?

Last edited by RAD4Runner; 11-04-2013 at 09:49 PM.
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