Corey

iTrader: (1)

My rear window has always been a faithful little bugger, until last weekend.
I was helping Vince with some fog lights and getting into the back of my rig to get to my tools.
When I would turn the key to put the window back up, it was getting sluggish.

Last night I had it down to get some tools out and the same thing happened, only it stopped about 2" short of being closed.
I went into the cab and fired up the engine to get more voltage and it did go up.
I used that switch to put it down again, and it would only go down 2" :eek:
If I kept the switch on, you could hear the rpms drop as the alternator would make the whine when it had resistance on it.

Same thing today. However when I turned the key back there, I could force the window all the way down with a little pressure and it would go down OK.

I am thinking it may not be the motor, just the tracks need a good lubin'.
I have never done this before. Is it as simple as taking off the plastic section on the tailgate and spraying some white lithium grease along the sides?

I bet I have a lot of pitch in there from the tree I park under.
I know there is pine needles always around the opening at the top of the window.
Maybe the pitch has gummed up the tracks pretty good.

Dealer wants $35 to $70 to lube it if that is all it is.
A new motor is $200 to $250 if needed.
Of course I'd get it from a discount online dealer if needed, or have my dealer match it.

I am leaning to the theory though that it's gunked up from that tree and just needs to be lubed.
I'd rather lube it myself if it's not to hard.

BTOWN4RUNNER

Yeah, from what you are saying, the motor seems to have a heck of a time moving the window, due to increased friction, due to dirt/sap/crap buildup, due to the trees, due to mother nature, due to...LOL...anyways, I too believe that your problem may be dirty tracks. I would check it out and see what you can do. I am sure that it is not too hard to do and you might even be able to do it yourself and save all that money! Goodluck and let us know what you find out! :beaver:

Robinhood150

Definately sounds like a lot of friction in the tracks. Electric motors draw the most current when they stall, that's why you have the symptoms you described.

You've probably already checked it, but Roger Brown has a write up on the rear window (or maybe that was just electrical?).

Steve

mark from uk

i get that problem on mine and i have no tree to park under all i do when it gets a bit slow is to spray the rubber with a little silicon polish and wipe off anc access and it seems to do the trick so now i do it every time i clean the truck

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guy's. I will mess around with it tomorrow probably.
I'll peel back the rubber on the sides and insert the litheum nozzle in there and blast the smitherines out of it

You should see all the gunk I get from that dang tree. Yesterday when I washed the rig I took a toothbrush to the trim around all the fender flares and pulled them out a bit.
Also took the toothbrush to the tops of the window Vent Visors, and around all the window molding.
That crap gets everywhere. I have some pitch on my roof under the rack that I don't even bother to scrape off it's so thick.

A new manager took over yesterday here and I asked her if she could look into the posibility of some of us having a carport, ah excuse me, rigport to park under.
Corey
PS, thanks Steve. I will have to check Roger's pages too.
Just about everything for the Toyota is covered on his pages.

BTOWN4RUNNER

Corey, what did she say? :beaver:

Corey

iTrader: (1)

She has to ask the owner about it first.
I have a feeling he will say no though.

Heck, these unit are well paid over a hundred times, and he is raking in the money from them.
It would be nice to add carports for those who want them.

I could always move to some other place, but I hate moving.
Next time I move, it will be to buy a place again, but I am not ready to do that now.
Corey

josh

Corey, the motor died on mine a few weeks ago. It got to where when I tried to open or close it it would squeek A LOT and would roll up unless you helped it. I replaced my motor and it made a huge difference. It is good as new again. If you have an FSM it is pretty simple. Just strip it down and take out the "Window Regulator" that has the motor attached to it, then unbolt the old motor. Be careful when doing this though, because the "arms" that raise and lower the window are spring loaded, and the gear on the motor is what holds tension on them. I almost lost a finger when I was changing mine. It took me all of 20 or 30 minutes. One helpful tip if you do change it...when removing and replacing the handle it is hard to snake the rod down through the gate to where it hooks into the regulator if you do it as stated in the FSM. What I found, was that if you take out the 2 screws in the upper plastic trim so you can bend it out away from the gate, then you can slip it right in.

Luke

Corey, I used to get the same trouble with mine until it packed up completely. I was lucky and managed to get the Dealer to do it under warranty and they replaced the motor and regulator. What i do about once a month now is pop off the piece of carpet on the tailgate and remove the metal cover. Next I get some spay grease or silicone spray and give the tracks that the glass runs in inside the tailgate, a bloody good spaying. You can see the tracks quite easily when the glass is up about half way. I find if i do this then the window seems to work well all the time. And I use my rear window alot as I am always getting kit in and out of the back (tools etc.)


Hope this helps

Luke

williemon

I tore mine all the way down around christmas. Pulled the regulator out, cleaned and waxed the glass and the tracks. Lubed the rollers, arms and the metal window track. Cleaned everything first though before I did the lube. Even took the motor apart and the gear housing. Cleaned, sanded and relubed everything. Put it all back together and it all works well. Only other thing I can think of would be to remove the relay board and clean the relay contacts.