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Rear U-joint replacement info needed

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Old 01-10-2007, 08:44 AM
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Rear U-joint replacement info needed

I had a major wobble/vibration at 20-40mph and thanks to the site figured out it was in the rear driveline. I removed the driveshaft after figuring out the rear u-joint was shot.

Now I'm in the process of changing the u-joint and I have two questions:
1. I've done some searches but could not find any how-to's to replace a u-joint. Something similar to the Aisin hubs upgrade , CV axles replacement and Wheel bearing which I've found all from this site that have helped my out tremendously.
2. My driveshaft when holding the top section that connects to the transmission and the other side there is <1/32" or ~1mm of movement in the splines. Are there any specs on this? Is this what makes the klang noise that is fixed by greasing the axle spines?

I'm at work and will be going through the haynes manual as well when I get home.

Thanks in advance,

chris
Old 01-10-2007, 09:32 AM
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If its anything like my 1st gen its pretty easy. I find a socket that is about the same size (but smaller) as the bearing cap. Make sure you take the retaining clips out first. Use a hammer and the socket like a punch and hammer out the oppsite cap your hammering on being careful not to knock the cap you are hammering on all the way out. If you knock it out its a pita to get it back through. You also have to work on a vise or something that will let the caps drop though. Flip the shaft over and you can use a punch or ever the same socket (if you dont mind screwing it up) to push out the side that you started on.

To install first take off all the caps. Make sure you put them some where they wont drop. Put the cross in the shaft and place one cap on one side and than put the oppsite side on. If you look the needle bearings are only held in by grease and you have to make sure that none of them get missed placed. You should be able to hammer them in on a flat floor and you can use the same socket. The caps have grooves cut in them for the retaining rings. Make sure that you can install them on both sides and do so.

Sorry to ramble on but Im just tring to cover every thing.

On the splines Im not sure but if its not leaking there I would just grease it and not worry with it.
Old 01-10-2007, 10:30 AM
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Even though YT is the best site around, there are on occasion some other bits of helpful info out there in cyberspace.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ujoint_install/

Has some good pics and should give you ideas on methods of U-Joint replacement. I found it helpful at least.
Old 01-10-2007, 10:49 AM
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removal: when using a vise, placing the exposed caps on the jaws and hammering at the weld will drive out the cap w/o the chance of jamming the opposite cap in. then filp for the other cap and repeat.
Old 01-10-2007, 10:59 AM
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I've had the best results when replacing u-joints by cutting the old one off with a grinder (7" cut off wheel). I make 4 complete cuts near the retaining clips. Then pound out what's left of the bearing caps. Takes about 5 minutes to get the old one off and the new one on.
Old 01-10-2007, 07:24 PM
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Thanks everyone for the links and info.

So I bought my replacement u-joint but I don't know if I want to install it or return it and get another??

What I bought are, Rockford extreem heavy duty from Canadian tire ($30cdn). I tried doing some research on google and in general there is pro's and con's to them. I think I also found out that they are owned or affiliated with Borg-Warner. They do not have a grease fitting.

Any one use these? good/bad? I found that many people (google search) like the spicer.
Thoughts?
Old 01-11-2007, 04:39 AM
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Spicer is the better joint. Alot of after market places in the US carry them as a better product but they are usally more expensive. If you have no lift and dont do much wheelin I go cheaper.
Old 01-11-2007, 06:19 AM
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I just replaced the rear U-joint on my 84 runner on monday for the first time because it was squeaking louder than my flowmaster exhaust. I just went by the haynes manual and it was a piece of cake using the socket method. Just be sure you have either a hella strong vise or a press to get the caps out.

As for the joint itself, I used a toyota piece (the last one lasted 22 yrs or so, i figure thats not too shabby). It was kinda pricey at about $50, but it came with a grease fitting and leaves no doubt in my mind that it is a quality unit.
Old 01-11-2007, 07:56 AM
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Chris, I see you live in Ottawa -- Go to carquest on Startop, or Napa on Belfast, for about the same price you can have them with the grease fitting. In my opinion a better choice then the crappy tire one.

G/L
Old 01-16-2007, 07:37 PM
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I just wanted to update and say thanks for all the great feedback/advice.

I returned the original non-greaseable u-joint for a greaseable one. It?s still a cheepo rockford. But I was worried if I messed up on the installation ($88 OEM vs $28 CDN Tire) I?d be out the big bucks.. This way if the u-joint doesn?t last long; I?ll know what I?m doing when I change it and it?s still cheaper than OEM.

The u-joint installation with the help of everyone went super easy. FYI I tried the vise but mine didn?t open far enough so I just cut them with a cutoff wheel. Man was that easy and highly recommended.

I?m currently waiting for some bolts and nuts for the driveshaft (I grinded 2 of them off before using a longer bar to break the bolts free) and will install everything on the truck tomorrow (-4F/-20C) Should be fun..At least the garage will be a little warmer .



I?ll update again once installed.

Thanks again,

Chris
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