Hey all quick question. Any problem with pulling the engine and trans together. It's a manual coming out of a '91 4x4 pickup. Using the tranny for my auto to manual swap. Engine is bad. Would like to pull them together and split them on the ground if it's not a problem to do so. Thanks.

 

Shouldn't be a problem as long as your lift can go high enough.

 

It's certainly possible, I didn't though, I dropped the transmission, then pulled my 3.0. My inspiration for not pulling them together came from this post: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f161...tml#post661468

The other option is to remove the radiator, A/C condenser (or is it the evaporator?), and the radiator core support, grille, and bumper then pull the engine/trans out through that hole. I think the radiator core support is actually welded in (vs bolted in) so that may be much more involved than it'd be worth.

 

Nope; Drop the trans out first. It makes pulling the engine and putting it SOoooooooooo much easier.

 

I tried to pull the engine, tranny and tcase as one unit. You would need the truck way high to clear the tcase. A two wheel drive I pull both together. On a 4 wheel drive, I drop the tranny then pull the motor.

 

Thanks guys. I guess I'll drop the trans first. I guess I'll have to rig up something for my floor jack if I want to do it this weekend as I haven't picked up a trans jack yet.

 

Either way, consider taking a few measurements first. A transmission attachment takes up vertical room, and you could end up with not-enough space to clear the transmission once lowered. On the other hand, my fancy high-lift "racing" jack requires a fair amount of force on the end of a long handle. Up close under a transmission, I don't think I could push hard enough on the handle to move it.

I've never removed my truck transmission, but I did from a Starion. I improvised a platform on top of a very inexpensive jack with a short handle; it had the right mechanical advantage so that I could move it under the car. But beware; a short, narrow jack will be very tippy with 100 lbs of aluminum and steel balanced on top.

 

I would recommend not removing a transmission with a transfer case attached using a regular floor jack. When you seprate it from the motor, it is going to roll to the passenger side. I would buy one from Harbor Freight or rent one if possible. Mine is a Harbor Freight and it works but is not the best and will explain below.

Also to clear the Stablilzer bar you will need to stair step it, back and down, back and down. Same for installing it. Up and forward, up and forward. Getting the bell housing over the Stablizer bar and to fit it to the motor. I have a hard enough time with a stable platform getting the transmission shaft into the Pilot bearing.

I had the shifter sticks and cross member off when I pulled the tranny but you can see the off set of the transfer case and why it will roll to the passenger side.


When pulling a transmission, the buckle will not let you tighten it all the way due to hitting the floorboard. What I do is get the platform under it and and back the tranny down and let it down low enough that I can then tighten the belt to where I can bring it down safely. The Stablizer bar and floor board will keep it from moving around to much that it wont come down on you if it makes a sudden movement. I dont use the floor board and stablizer as support, but it is there if something goes wrong. This is with the HF tranny jack. Other jacks might be better. It is what I got and what I use and works for me.

Poor design of the buckle.


When I install a transmission and transfer case. I am able to get it centered and tightened down that the transmission is how I want it when I go to stab the shaft into the pilot bearing. The other issue you are going to run into is getting the buckle to release to loosen the belt from the transmission. I lower the transmission which tilts the complete drivetrain, motor, transmission, and transfer case that it will let me loosen the buckle some but not enough to get the belt off the transmission. What I do then is remove the bolt that is holding the belt to the transmission oppisite of the buckle.

Here is the bolt I am refering to. With enough pressure on it, the bolt is not going to come out of the belt when installing the transmission. If you wanted to be safer, you could put a nut on it and I used to do that but the pressure needed will keep the bolt from sliding out. This is using a Harbor Freight trans jack. Others may not have this problem.

 

Reason I mention the roll it will do is that you have one or two dowel pins that are about 1/2 inch long. Once the transmission clears the dowel pins that is when you are going to see the roll and most floor jacks have a 2-4 inch platform and it is going to roll off of that platform. The belt keeps it from rolling.

When installing the transmission, after I have it bolted to the transmission, I lower it enough to get the buckle loose and remove the bolt. After the belt is freed, I raise the transmission and install the crossmember then remove the jack. The belt lets you center the transmission on the jack to stab it to the motor.

 

the more expensive hf trans jacks have adjustable outside support bars, but even at the minimum width setting, they are still too wide for our toyota trannys... what i did was brace the trans on the side with a piece of 2x4, to keep the trans from rolling... there is also an adjustment for the horizontal angle, on the jack.

those jacks come with a chain(not usable), not a strap, so i had to use my own strap(or two?), and in the end i had to cut the strap(s) to get 'em off, after the trans was installed.

with the engine/trans in the truck, you can adjust the up/down angle of the jack perfectly, but since you are doing an auto swap, you won't have that luxury... so you'll have to guess at the angles, and do the final angle adjustments when the trans is jammed up under the floorboards.

i have dual cases, which made it even harder to balance, and i did the whole job by myself, when i was 58 years old, lol... i struggled with stabbing it back in for over three hours, then realized that i didn't have it braced and adjusted right... once i dropped it back down, and took some time to strap in down and set up the angles correctly, it went right in... just getting it back in and fully bolted up took me over 8 hours :-/

i had to pull the last inch or so in with the trans bolts, which is a bit disconcerting, but it went in easily and smoothly... make very sure that you get every bolt on the bell housing off, the top corner bolts are hard to see.

 

If its a 22r engine and trans they are not heavy at all, i have done both "styles" and i think its more trouble getting them both out.