The bolt holds the axle stub inside the hub. Normally you take the outer part of the locking hub off, remove the bolt and washer then remove the hub body off the axle shaft.

 

This will give an idea of what the bolt does. Although he is working on Toyota without locking hubs, you will see the bolt. The locking hubs use the same configuration.

 

Oh My God!

That video (as hard as it is to follow) shows exactly how NOT to remove the 1/2 shaft from a Toyota truck! You do need to remove the "gold bolt" (though usually before removing the flange nuts), but you don't remove the large axle nut. And you certainly don't remove the lower ball joints as he was planning to do at the end of the video.

It looks like the author didn't realize that you can't remove the 1/2 shafts with the wheels dangling from the lift like that; the angle of the shaft is wrong, and it won't come out. Instead, you have to lift the rotor as though the truck were sitting on suspension. Remove the cir-clip, the 6 bolts holding the tulip to the diff. flange, and out she comes.

But, to be fair, I have no idea (from this video) what his end goal was.

 

I agree 100% on the video, posted it to show the 12MM bolt that holds the axle shaft. Here is a better explanation.


http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/autohub/

 

Here's the depth measurement I'm talking about. I get 8.5mm as shown in the picture.

 

Those Milemarkers (or Warn?) might look deeper, but I don't think they are. They just lack that ridge where the stock hubs have the extra snap ring.

EDIT: been a while since I've seen a drafting scale

 

LOL

There was a day when engineering students had to *draw* before they were allowed to screw around on the computer! I think that changed about the day I got my degree.

 

Ya, I sometimes miss the t square and lead holder.

 

Thanks guys! Can't wait to get another cv axle and try this out in 4wd. Abby benefits on going with a cheap OEM axle over getting one from rock auto?

 

If you have the choice, find a nice set of OEM axles and R&R the boots and grease. The metallurgy is far superior to most parts store axles. I have personally broken at least one Advance Auto axle. My relubed OEM ones continue to hold up well.