Howzit Tekkies?
I finally got enough gumption to tackle my leaky Steering box yesterday. With the help of this:
http://web.archive.org/web/200503220.../taco/box.html
and this video:
and of course the SEARCH function in this fine website
I thought I had it under control until I got to this:




How do you get that lock nut? off? The seal on the end of that input shaft leaks and there's a few o-rings and teflon rings in there that can be replaced.
If you look closely at the first photo, you can see where I tried tapping it to try and turn that nut. The FSM manual doesn't go into how to get that thing off or
even what SST to use.
My best idea so far is to try and get a 46mm nut to fit in there (probably would have to do some grinding/drilling) then just use big channel locks to turn it?
or maybe this modified?

Any ideas?

 

How do I fix a high idle issue, pick up is stuck at 2000 rpms, 22re

 

I rebuilt the PS box on my '91 4Runner last fall. I had the same problem as you but my unit looks like the one in the video you referenced. There seems to be a number of different models of the steering box that the FSM doesn't cover. After tapping the notch area with a punch for awhile and having no success, I ended up rigging up a 2 pin wrench that inserted into 2 of the holes in the end plate. In your case it looks like they intended that a hex insert be used to twist off the end plate.

I think you are on the right track with using part of a nut of the correct size to fit into the recess. It would be necessary to cut or grind the nut to a sharp, flat edge so it didn't slip out (and drill out the center to fit over the shaft as well).

Make sure you punch mark the edge of the plate and the housing so you have a reference to re-tighten to the right spot. I had a couple of "oopses" putting mine back together (forgot to install the tiny O-rings for the hydraulic lines and didn't think to put thread sealer on the adjustment screw). After correcting those errors it worked perfectly and had zero leaks, so it was definitely worth the effort.

Good luck!

Jim G.

 

Thanks for your advice. It may be a little harder to find just the right thing as I am limited to the spots in my little town here in the middle of the Pacific but we gotta learn how to make do over here. I did a big oops when I crushed the oil seal on the pitman arm end cause I wasn’t paying attention.
I also have the box that’s on the truck now (and another in my parts truck so hopefully I’ll learn by then.

 

I went to the local Fastenal to procure this nut (after explaining my idea to a machine shop and they said they could bore the hole to fit) and lo and behold no nut will fit because the plate has an octagon!!


Does anyone have any other ideas? I even went to the Toyota Dealership and they said they didn't have the tool for it.

 

If it is an octagon, an appropriately sized square shaped block would work.

 

The "octagon" might be intended to be the drive, but I doubt it (a shape like that would be very sensitive to ever-so-slightly tipping the tool). I suspect the lock ring is supposed to be removed with a "spanner" like this https://www.otctools.com/products/spanner-wrench-2-4-34 or this
[Note that in the UK "spanner" is the name for what we in the Colonies just call an open-end wrench.]

 

i agree. get that lock ring off and the solution will be apparent,

 

Update:
I threw in the towel and sent the whole de-constructed thing to RedHead steering in Washington. It wasn’t for the lack of trying..I went to the machine shops, the Toyota dealership and a few repair shops. The closest I got was a transmission place that said they could probably take that plate off but couldn’t guarantee putting it back on.
so for about $450 with shipping I got a shiny reman. I thought the steering was stiff at first then I realized that that’s how it’s supposed to feel without any play.
stoked on Redhead and happy to support a small American business