k&n kit replaced oem air junk. then replaced k&n tubing with spctre, kept k&n filter and mount, opening clearanced to match cressida AFM

 

It's all there if you read it. In particular about the heat...

Everyone that's done dyno tests on the K&N cone that I've seen (especially folks w/ next gen 3.4s) actually see a HP and torque DECREASE w/ the K&N. It's never to late to return it. Or sell it on ebay...

 

A little proof on why POD filters and "cold air intakes" are bs.

 

Folks get distracted by confusing more flow w/ more oxygen. It's more oxygen that you need/denser air. Without having an air box (factory setup has), you're drawing in hot engine air, which actually has less oxygen atoms per given volume (is less dense) than colder air of the same volume (hotter means atoms expand and take up more space...). The 3vze engines w/ stock crossover in particular are often 30-50*F above outside ambient air. That reduces some at highway speeds, but it's still hotter than what you get w/ the stock factory setup.

K&N's sound cool but don't deliver more power. They do deliver more dirt to your engine which increases wear and the oil fouls your AFM, making it function less effectively, which reduces your engine's overall performance as well. And eventually necessitates a $300 part replacement... Some good threads on that on here recently. The scruss thread already shared has some really good info -- and that discussion is currently in process.

Here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...or-mod-272014/
And here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-setup-272137/

 

So it's looking like the s&b kit plus the 3 inch spectre tubing to the throttle body plus the 7mge flow meter is the best way to go on the 3vze ???? And a bored out throttle body !! As far as increased colder air intake is concerend.

 

I don't think the S&B kit is necessary, but it's a heck of a lot better than K&N. One of the folks on the cold air intake thread is doing some restriction/pressure testing in the near future to see where the restrictions are. As far as cold air is concerned, you just need to seal off your air intake from the engine bay (eliminating restriction/increasing air flow over the headlight ensures flow is such that engine bay is harder to draw). And the ISR delete will move your intake tubing away from your drivers side header, which will help keep it cool. But you need to insulate it from the engine bay heat regardless.

Generally for the intake/air flow dynamics of the engine, this is where I'm at (this is the quick and dirty -- details are fleshed out elsewhere):

I think the deflector mod is #1 -- or finding some other way to increase stock air flow. It's not enough w/ base setup... After doing the intake, next look at doing your exhaust proper. Several threads have discussed previously. Mandrel bent w/ crossover delete -- IMO, headers aren't needed. Details in other threads.

If you read through the threads I posted, one of them references something like a 30% increase in air flow w/ mandrel bent air intake tubing rather than the base specter kits, and describes what I'm thinking for that setup... You need to heat insulate your ISR tube regardless... A fairly cheap mod makes this next after exhaust I suppose.

AFM looks like a good mod, but you need to get a wideband 02 sensor to properly tune. So it's a $150-250 mod done right...

I see a benefit from throttle body, but again, if you spend time actually reading the threads just shared, you'll find that before going down the rabbit hole, you need to think through it. Without fixing other items that are greater restrictions, you're barking up the wrong tree.

A huge restriction on our engines as is are the factory heads and undersized valves. So machine your factory heads, or buy new performance heads bored for oversized valves.
To do this, you have to do the equivalent of headgasket job plus you might as well consider rebuilding your shortblock if you're doing the top to not have to do it later... In addition to the valves, you'll want performance cams. $2,000+ later, and only if you've done the stuff outlined above will you want to start on the throttle and plenum...

So w/ $4k+ into the engine not including labor, you might now have an engine approaching the performance of a stock 3.4 5vzfe, but you'll be getting 20% less in MPGs, when you could have just purchased a rebuilt with OEM components 3.4 5vzfe for $3500 that had most of these filter back to exhaust issues fixed from the start... So your call. Just think it through. And read. You get far more info on these boards by searching and reading than asking ?s... Some stuff like exhaust needs done regardless for a 3.4 swap, but by thinking ahead, you can fabricate so that you only have to pay for it once. Make a plan before approaching adhoc. A couple hundred here and a couple hundred there quickly adds up.

 

Thanks for the insight makes a lot of sense , but I don't know if there's anyone selling a complete 3.4 ltr. Freshly rebuilt and ready to drop in for 3500 , I know there's a place in Oregon called toy swaps only that will drop in a used 3.4 ltr. Into 1 st gen . 4runners but again these motors are used with 175k miles on them , so if you can tell me where I can find a complete 3.4 freshly rebuilt and someone who will install it and proof that it will pass smog in California all for 3500 I'm in !!!!!

 

Thanks for the insight makes a lot of sense , but I don't know if there's anyone selling a complete 3.4 ltr. Freshly rebuilt and ready to drop in for 3500 , I know there's a place in Oregon called toy swaps only that will drop in a used 3.4 ltr. Into 1 st gen . 4runners but again these motors are used with 175k+miles on them , so if you can tell me where I can find a complete 3.4 freshly rebuilt and someone who will install it and proof that it will pass smog in California all for 3500 I'm in !!!!! Other wise I'm thinking a complete 3.4 ltr used goes for around 2 k and another 1500 to rebuilt it plus around 1500 to install it in a 1st gen 4runner that's around 5k plus it has to pass the smog coach here in California which could be a headache .

 

Sorry for the repost wasn't able to delete first post on my phone , but yeah I know the 3.4 ltr swap is the answer to first gen 4runners but 3500 is not what it's gonna cost to drop in a complete rebuilt 3.4 including labor I know guys on here have done it for around 3500 but they did all the labor them selves and doubt any one them took the time to rebuild them and probably didn't have to worry about smog issues .

 

I also did the math on a 190 hp 3vze and for a rebuilt one with oversize valves goes for 2k plus 200 to have the heads ported , plus 900 for my mechanic to install it plus already have a mandrel bent exh. System plus bored out throttle body an extra 350 that's 3450 , it will probably be the same hp as a stock 3.4 but it will be rebuilt and installed and know it will pass smog now that I can believe it will cost 3500

 

Sorry guys didn't mean to get sidetracked on the isr thread .

 

Don't know anything about these guys, but: http://www.yotashop.com/5vzfe-27/

You'd also need all the swap components, but you could probably buy a completely trashed donor, a donor w/ engine already pulled, or even a cash for clunkers donor to pull everything you need off of for $500...

Install and all custom parts is about $1500 to $2000 by ToyOnlySwaps.com once taking away the cost of the engine. So that's $5k full in for what's for all intents a completely new engine versus $3500 for an engine of unknown origins.

Well, found this one for $1500, but that seems too cheap for what all they say they're doing: http://www.123engine.com/toyota2.php
Maybe not, but you'll have to search and see what folks say about them.

 

2 3"to2" rubber things from lowes
1 3" 45degree
spectre filter
adapter
2 breathers
1 piece of 3" pvc

pretty cheap..... most money was the filters

I am already pretty sure I will be coming up with something else in future but for now this works

http://s560.photobucket.com/user/jon...301.jpeg.html]

 

 

 

Well this is my new 22re in my auto cross truck







what it looks like now

 

My ISR pretty happy with it, don't know if I should go with the open filter.

Does it add anything?

I don't really drive through rivers, and live in Texas, we do have pretty good rainstorms but that's about it.

Cost a bit more than I would have hoped but got everything at Autozone and earned my Reward.

Long bent 45 deg. piece 40.00
2.5-3" adapter
3"-3" adapter
6" straight piece.
2 ft 3/8 hose





Attachment 98839

 

The open filter doesn't really add anything.. It does increase the chances of hydro locking. Unless you're just that concerned about aesthetics, just leave the stock airbox.

 

Just ISR'd my '89.
Used a Spectre kit I got from autozone for 50 bucks (hey, its an aluminum pipe), along with an extra coupler, a set of vaccuum hose attachments, and a bit of fuel hose I had laying around. Total cost is around 65.
I had to cut the pipe down by about 2 inches and the pre installed vacuum ports are a PITA , but otherwise its an almost perfect fit. Damn clean looking install to boot! (now if only the rest of my engine looked that clean.)

 

So glad to see another RHD 3VZE as well... most seem to end up with a Commode V6 in them or a Lexus V8....

After a quote of AU$140 for a new intake hose from Toyota (they had been good recently with prices for bits and pieces) I've set off on the making my own option.

So far it's looking like $30 for 3" 45* mandrel bent section of exhaust, and about the same in hose fittings from the local ag supplier.

Now on the subject of those fittings; I can see that I need one for the rocker cover breather, that's easy. What is more confusing is how people have managed the idle up for the PS and AC (AC doesn't have a belt so isn't a problem... lack of PS on the other hand is a problem). In Blu's write up, you can see the spur that it comes off on the lower box (bottom RHS of picture):



Blu's picture from the ISR mod destructions

Am I right in thinking that this is the 2nd fitting that he described as being used for the emissions gubbins, or are the US/Cali spec engines that different that even the vacuum hoses are run differently? On the US market stuff, it looks like the Idle up is controlled via the capped outlet on Cuba's picture and into more plastic that then runs in. Is that correct?

When I look on ToyoDIY diagrams, I get that the hose is for idle up for the accessories, and that makes sense having followed where it runs.

Any feedback? I'm going to be picking up the parts on Monday...