Post pics of pickups with 2" lifts and 33's
07-08-2013, 10:15 AM
#41
Registered User
^um...show us these "3 inch BJ spacers".....pretty sure BJ spacers this tall don't exist and if they do they would be outright dangerous to run because of the leverage theyd put on everything. Perhaps you have 1.5-2" BJ spacers with some t-bar crank to net you 3" from where it was before? Same with AALs - 2" should only give you around 2" lift unless paired with shackles or blocks to go higher. Maybe you're just saying you're at 5" lift from previous state of typical saggy toyota suspension?
07-08-2013, 12:06 PM
#42
^tires don't really count as "lift" even though they do give extra height under the axle. on your rig, you could have a 2-3" lift via bj spacers + t-bar crank, regardless of it being called a "3inch lift" by the manufacturer - technically not 5inch lift though it may be 5" taller than stock. crazy if you got 3" height gain from tires alone -- were you running a 27" tire previously?
What all of us posting in this thread need to note is the measurement from the center of the axle to the bottom of the fender lip for front and rear.
This is the true reading for determining how much lift your rig actually has, since it's a good measuring point that ALL of our rigs can be measured from unless you have non-stock/chopped fenders. Another good measurement, though not as relevant to the topic of this thread, would be the belly height of your rig - so from ground to the frame or lowest point between the axles (like t-case crossmember).
On my truck with a 2" OME lift, the distance is around 22.5" from center of axle to fender for f/r on an unloaded truck. Don't know the belly height off hand.
What all of us posting in this thread need to note is the measurement from the center of the axle to the bottom of the fender lip for front and rear.
This is the true reading for determining how much lift your rig actually has, since it's a good measuring point that ALL of our rigs can be measured from unless you have non-stock/chopped fenders. Another good measurement, though not as relevant to the topic of this thread, would be the belly height of your rig - so from ground to the frame or lowest point between the axles (like t-case crossmember).
On my truck with a 2" OME lift, the distance is around 22.5" from center of axle to fender for f/r on an unloaded truck. Don't know the belly height off hand.
01-22-2014, 09:40 AM
#47
Registered User
here's my 32x11.5x15's on a 5" lift, and they don't rub at all. but make sure your wheels have enough offset or else you will rub the tie-rod and I have stock gears,
a buddy of mine had 33's and a 4" lift and they fit nicely, and ran fine, slower than stock tires but not obscenely so
a buddy of mine had 33's and a 4" lift and they fit nicely, and ran fine, slower than stock tires but not obscenely so
01-22-2014, 10:21 AM
#48
Registered User
picture heavy 
yea heres a few side shots with the 32's
due to the wrong offset of my wheels (I didn't pick them out) my 32's would rub on the tie rods, so I had to get 1/4" wheel spacers, well that put the stance wide enough to just go clear over these
here's a few of my truck with 36" tires, over all they cleared, just a little rub when at full crank, they rode the same as the 32's (little bouncier) but i could coast longer without much slow down. I normally run steel rims (with the 32s) and these 36's have alloys so over all the wheels and tires weigh about the same
due to the wrong offset of my wheels (I didn't pick them out) my 32's would rub on the tie rods, so I had to get 1/4" wheel spacers, well that put the stance wide enough to just go clear over these
here's a few of my truck with 36" tires, over all they cleared, just a little rub when at full crank, they rode the same as the 32's (little bouncier) but i could coast longer without much slow down. I normally run steel rims (with the 32s) and these 36's have alloys so over all the wheels and tires weigh about the same
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