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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Oil Problem or no ?

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Old 08-18-2018, 07:05 PM
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Oil Problem or no ?

So I have been watching this oil pressure gauge as of late. Have not been able to detect a pattern but heres what I have.
Needle sits on L or just above L most of the time. Then on occasion it will fire up to the middle and respond as I think it should for a short time then back to L.

I have checked the oil level and it reads Full. What do I check next. I don't see any leaks ? I just cant imagine that I am able to drive all over town on L oil and not set a code off or have an issue. Right when I am sure the oil pump is out it will respond fine (about every 25 miles or so for full set of shifting) then back to sitting at L.

Engine temp gets to center and holds never goes up.

I don't know. Oil was just changed at Toyota (27 bucks) about 400 miles ago but as I said it reads fine. Is my old engine in need of a heavier weight oil ?
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:08 PM
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This is pretty much what I see most of the time.
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:33 PM
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Start by checking the gauge: http://web.archive.org/web/201102052.../6combinat.pdf (the gauge will read "low" with a broken wire to the sender; I imagine a bad sender may do the same.)

Then get a mechanical gauge and check for sufficient oil pressure: http://web.archive.org/web/201311071...56oilpress.pdf
(Note how low it is at idle, compared to 3,000 rpm. My truck puts the oil gauge just below center when cold, but once warmed up, at idle it sits as low as yours.)
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Old 08-18-2018, 07:50 PM
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I was thinking oil pressure sender also. But everytime I think the gauge is shot it will work for a cycle of shifting. Sending the gauge to just below center and I think all is fine. Then heads Back to L on the dash and holds that.

There is no check engine light. Not looking for more bad news but how do you know when your oil pump is out ?





Last edited by Spread5150; 08-18-2018 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 08-18-2018, 08:14 PM
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The engine freezes solid.

There is no "code" that has anything to do with oil. Don't take the absence of a CEL as any consolation.

That's WHY you have an oil pressure gauge. Since yours is intermittent, I would check the gauge first. I've given you links with how to do that. That will also "check" the oil pump by verifying that you have sufficient pressure.
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Old 08-18-2018, 11:13 PM
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yeh sounds like a wire is loose, and is intermittently making contact. could be in the gauge or the sender aswell.
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Old 08-19-2018, 03:03 PM
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https://www.autozone.com/external-en...eVehicle=false

So for the sending unit I came up with this. Anyone know which is the correct one. I notice the one for 38 bucks says for gauge .. The other two say for light. Trying to get the right one ordered. Do all trucks have both or just one.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:03 PM
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Did you test your sender? Did you test your gauge? No? That's okay, just keep ordering parts blindly. You might even fix it! More likely, you'll go bankrupt long before that happens.

The video of your combination meter (instrument panel) shows an oil pressure gauge. Why, then, would you consider ordering a switch for a light, instead of a sender for a gauge ?

By the way, Autozone part PS328 shows up to me as $52. Autozone is a brick-and-mortar store, and so has different prices for different places, and I DO live in the high-priced part of the country. But that seems like a big difference from $38. Personally, I'd get my sender (AFTER I CONFIRMED BY TESTING THAT MY OLD ONE IS DEAD) from RockAuto for $29.

Last but not least, consider ordering the cheaper "switch" (for a light) instead of the "sender." (for a gauge) I am told that the moment you turn on the key the switch will short out the gauge and destroy it. Then you won't need to test either part.

Last edited by scope103; 08-19-2018 at 04:05 PM.
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Old 08-19-2018, 04:30 PM
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I wont be the one doing the work on the truck. I wish I had the time to tinker with it. I will leave it at a shop. While they do great work they do tear me up on marking up the parts. Using a brick and motor store and paying 10 bucks more is not a big deal to me since if I am wrong on the part and it is another piece I can return it at the store. They will surly test the oil pressure as you suggested (really because you suggested it I will ask them to so I thank you for the suggestions) I will drop it off in the next day or so but I will have to continue on to work. I am trying to get her going for Thursday to take to the hunting ranch. If it ends up being the pressure sender, having it on the seat and telling them to put it in is helpful to me. If they have to go get it ... It will cost me 75+.

I use the suggestions here to help me go in with a little knowledge on the truck. If I can show up with parts I save a lot.

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Old 08-19-2018, 09:05 PM
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yehh taking n board scopes offensive remarks at your intelligence, i think ts only sensible to assume its the sender or a wire.
Bankrupcty from buying a few car parts??? realy? did we need to go there ahaha.
For some people its a matter of pulling out the diagnostic equipmet we keep in our garrages, for others, its a matter of checking our sanity online, and buying parts.
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Old 08-20-2018, 09:30 AM
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The senders fail commonly. Many times when they do they will take the gauge with it. Id say to pull the sender and connect an actual gauge and verify pressure is where it should be. If it checks ok connect a small incandescent light bulb to the sender wire and the other end to ground. The gauge should read high. Don't connect the wire straight to ground as it can ruin the gauge. If that works and you can't find a loose connection anywhere then get a new sender.
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Old 08-20-2018, 09:52 AM
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Scope103's post was an exaggeration, but he does have a point.

The point here is that we don't want to waste money buying parts that might not solve the problem, or possibly implant another problem.

Often times, we see people asking for help here after they replaced perfectly fine OEM parts with the cheapest aftermarket parts that do not last, in an attempt to solve a problem. Sometimes I have seen "new" parts cause additional problems which can be frustrating to figure out.

Do not take these things too personally, we just want to help you find the problem without just firing the parts cannon at the problem.

The way the gauge is reacting while driving indicates an electrical problem. Mechanically, I really see no way for the engine and oil pump to loose or gain oil pressure with no other problems like you describe.

The problem can still lie in the gauge assembly if there is a lose connection within the gauge itself.

Hopefully the gauge will act up for your mechanic so they can see what you see.

Good luck!

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Old 08-21-2018, 07:05 PM
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Got it fixed. Turned out to be Pressure sender after all. Thank you to EVERYONE who helped and responded. Total cost was about 100 bucks. Next up. Shocks !
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Spread5150 View Post
Got it fixed. Turned out to be Pressure sender after all. Thank you to EVERYONE who helped and responded. Total cost was about 100 bucks. Next up. Shocks !
<-- devil's advocate
Or maybe you just paid 100$ for someone to clean and tighten the little spade connector.
Or maybe it's just waiting to act up after it doesn't think you're taking it back to the mechanic (Toyota jail!!)


Glad to hear the dash didn't have to come apart. One of the issues we see with these after all these years is the screws attaching the gauge to the circuit backing out and making it act wierd based on vibration and moisture.
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Old 08-21-2018, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Spread5150 View Post
Got it fixed. Turned out to be Pressure sender after all. Thank you to EVERYONE who helped and responded. Total cost was about 100 bucks. Next up. Shocks !
Excellent!



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Old 08-22-2018, 01:33 AM
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oh but how are you telling us, how do u have a computer?? Ur suposed to be bankrupt
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Old 08-22-2018, 04:34 AM
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i Was lucky not to go bankrupt on this project for now. I have a car audio habit that is taking care of that ....
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