i don't have power to coil any suggestions checked the fuses they were all good. Any help would be appreciated

 

engine?

 

Check the ground cables. Also fuse's.

 

Wow. It looks like if you try, you can write your question so briefly that no one can understand what you are asking.

What do you mean "I don't have power to the coil"?
http://web.archive.org/web/201212070...12onvehicl.pdf

Most likely, your B-R wire to the ignition switch is open.

 

Diddo what scope said, its likely your ignition module, the aluminum deal your coil is mounted to, which sucks because its probably the most expensive component under your hood. $300 to 400 new. You can search GM ignition module swap, alot of people do this because its a fraction of the cost of a new toyota switch, the down side is the GM switch is not nearly as resilient as the toyota switch, so alot of guys carry spares in the glove box. They still last a few years if wired in correctly. The toyota ones last forever so a used one is a good option too, expect to pay 100 or more from a wrecking yard. You can usually find them on craigslist for half that if your lucky.

 

If by "don't have power to the coil" means he doesn't have 12v to GROUND on the + (B-R) terminal, then it's not the igniter, it's the connection to the ignition switch (or the switch, but that takes out a lot of other stuff with it). To "fire" the coil, the igniter grounds the - terminal.

If, instead, he means "I put my multimeter from the + to the - terminal on the ignition coil, and got 0v," that's normal.

Note that those are both voltage measurements, not power measurements. The ignition coil is a (auto-) transformer, so it consumes almost no power.

In other words, no one knows enough to say whether it is grounds, or igniter, a broken connection, or a bad switch. But hey, go ahead and replace all of those. There is always a tiny possibility that while you are doing that, you might accidentally fix the real problem. Not the way I would do it.

 

could defiantly be the ground, but just taking his post at face value and speaking from experience if your coils not getting a signal or "power" its always been the ignition module for me. Dont know how the connection at the switch could go out? Unless the failed switch got so hot it melted the solder, which would ultimately be a failed module/ ignitor. Which is another thing id check, every time ive had one fail, after cranking the engine for several seconds the ignition module would be hot as hell.

 

Yes I'm sorry
the ignition coil is not getting power.
i ran a wire from positive battery terminal to ignition coil and it starts right up

 

I am no mechanic, just trying to get it running.
so if it starts with power from battery to coil then would that be a bad module??

 

I checked the coil with a test light, probably not the correct method but got nothing while turning the engine over

 

yeah thats what it sounds like. New ingition module should do it.

 

I didn't notice a response to this question: "engine ?". Not long after I got my Toyota pickup with the 22R engine, I changed the oil and filter. After I finished the truck wouldn't start. It would turn over but not start. So I started looking at the area around the oil filter and there was a small wire that connects to a small device on the block near to where the filter mounts. When I installed the filter I had caused the wire to disconnect. I reconnected the wire and my truck started up. It appears that small device supplies a ground to the ignition system as it has only the one small wire attaching to it.

 

ummm... yeah... what year Escalade are we talking here?
A problem well-stated is a problem almost solved.

So Ignition coil is good.
Find the schematic, trace the wire that goes from battery, to ignition switch then eventually yo ignition coil and find where you lost connection.

 

I would like to see what the fix for this is. I too have had to deal with it. It sounds easy just to follow from where power starts to where it should end at (Coil) but was not as easy as it sounded. I would like to see if you find a break in the wire or a failed component. Thanks. I had to swap a harness to fix my issue. Just dont remember which harness it was.

 

I am reasonably certain that the igniter GROUNDS the - terminal of the coil to fire it. We have no idea WHERE on the coil Rudyk connected 12v, but I'm guessing he connected it to the + terminal (he would have started a fire otherwise). Since that allowed it to run, the igniter (I assume that is what ChinkTruck is referring to with "ingition module") appears to be working.

So I would advise Rudyk to first, throw away that "test light" and drop $5 (!!) on a real digital multimeter. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-90899.html Then just measure voltage TO GROUND at the + terminal of the coil. It should be 12v with key-on. If not, the problem is in the connection from the coil to the ignition switch.

And just to state the obvious: running a wire from the battery to, well, anywhere on a guess is a good way to do some real expensive damage. That's why we all use multimeters.