Need some advice plz
#1
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Need some advice plz
So i have a 93 22re pickup and my battery died the other day cuz my alt. diod went out and so i got a new alt. well i jumped my truck off cuz the battery was still dead a little
and it cranked right up and then after about 20 seconds it started sputtering and died and i can't really figure it out it was like it was flooding it's self out
does it sounds like a maf sensor or computer ?
and it cranked right up and then after about 20 seconds it started sputtering and died and i can't really figure it out it was like it was flooding it's self out
does it sounds like a maf sensor or computer ?
#2
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try charging the battery a little before you start it. thats what i did when i got a new alt. dont know if thats your problem but that would be the first thing i would try
#4
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Make sure the new alternator is good. The truck should run even after you start it and disconnect the battery. The sputtering would indicate that there isn't enough voltage to the ecu, fuel pump and injectors.
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so yeah,as long as i have the jumper cables hooked up it runs fine but if i un-hook them it spits and sputters then dies.Any ideas ?
and i have a new alt. and good battery.
and i have a new alt. and good battery.
#7
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did you have this new alternator bench-tested before installing it?
sounds like either A) you were sold a faulty alternator, or B) the main charging fuse (60 amp fuse) has blown, possibly when the regulator when out in the last one
OOOOR...
C) there's a bad ground to the engine block and/or alternaor casing
OOOOOOORRR.....
D) the wiring harness that plugs into the alternator is damged...
sounds like either A) you were sold a faulty alternator, or B) the main charging fuse (60 amp fuse) has blown, possibly when the regulator when out in the last one
OOOOR...
C) there's a bad ground to the engine block and/or alternaor casing
OOOOOOORRR.....
D) the wiring harness that plugs into the alternator is damged...
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 04-23-2010 at 10:21 PM.
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#9
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Years ago when engines had points, condensors, etc before all of the electronics, you could start a vehicle remove the battery cables from the posts and it would still run. Today you can't do that and you don't want to try because it will fry much of your electronic circuits, especially the ECU. If you boosted your truck with the other vehicle running, your engine could be running as a result of the other vehicles electrical system. So shut it off and boost your truck just off of the battery. If your truck will not run, the problem is in your electrical system, if your truck runs okay as long as the jumper cables are on, your electrical system is fine but your battery is toast. 12 volt batteries can be fine today and fail tomorrow, that's just the way they go. You may have checked your battery with a DC voltmeter and registered a good voltage reading, but what is that voltage when you put a load (starting current) on the battery? If your battery has shorted plates as soon as you put a load on that battery your voltage is going to drop dramatically. Unless you have had a battery discharge test done on your battery, there is no way of knowing that your battery is good for sure. Most major auto parts stores have a load test bench and they can test your battery and many will do it for free.
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