This may help figuring out your ring gear: http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...ion-18588.html

 

Thanks much, this is the exact place I did end up figuring it out. Very much appreciated.

 

Ok guys my newest latest search is to make sure I get the right fluids for my truck, I’m currently switching from green antifreeze back to the good Toyota stuff that is in my other toyota. Now for the front/rear diffs, transmission (manual), transfer case, (gear driven) and I already know what I want to use in my engine. I’m thinking a regular 80/90 or 75/150 for the front and rear diff?? And no idea on the transfer case and transmission. Not sure if either of the 2 have any yellow metals in them. I know on my Volkswagen GTI I couldn’t use gl5 in the manual trans due to it having yellow metals in it.

 

I believe the FSM calls out 70W90 GL4 for the differentials, transfer case, and transmission. I'm pretty sure the weight is fairly variable, relative to the normal driving environment. I always used straight 90W when I was in Yuma, Az. There, a 95° evening was a cool, comfortable night. 110° was an average afternoon, and I drove my trucks and motorcycles on 125° afternoons several times.
The point is, they want GL4, not GL5 for all the gear-related lubes. The weights are pretty much up to the normal driving conditions.

Does this help at all?
Pat☺

 

Yes it helps, Now this is exactly what I thought as well, GL-4 and in my area a 80-90 would be fine. But all my reasearch everyone keeps posting a gl-4 or gl-5. I can see gl-5 being fine for the front and rear diff but not the trans case and specially the manual trans being it could very well have yellow metals in it?? Even if it does not the gl-5 could affect the shifting as well being I’m not sure if it’s designed to shift better with a less slick gl-4. Ive also read that the (syncros) not sure how that’s spelled. May not work properly with a gl-5.
My current thought was a good synthetic in all GL-5 in diffs and GL-4 in trans and case. But maybe I should stick with GL-4 for all.

 

Yes, use GL4 in the tranny. GL5 can cause shifting issues.. I use synthetic 75W-90 in the tranny, diffs & transfer case.

 

Do NOT use GL4 in your differentials - you risk destroying the ring and pinion. The ring and pinion are hypoid gears, which mate much like worm gears - in other words, the teeth slide over each other instead of rolling against each other like the gears in the transmission. The sliding action requires extra friction reducers, which GL5 provides. The owners' manual clearly specifies GL-5 for the diffs, and GL-4 or GL-5 for the tranny and tcase. GL-4 works better in the tranny, because the extra slickness of GL-5 makes the synchronizers not work as well.

 

I do apologize for my mistake. I was under the impression that it was all GL4 recommended.

I obviously need to go read the book again.

Again, my sincerest apologies for my mistake!
Pat☺

 

No biggie at all sir I’m just glad there are so many willing to help with questions, I do always research everything as well when I ask these questions but in my experience I always wait until I’ve done my homework before doing the job. Recently I tackled one of the aisin manual hubs which wasnt unlocking. After 20 minutes of trying to figure the assembly out I finally gave up and watched a utube video. Was definitely a huge help.

 

So the transmission does work better with the GL-4 that’s good to know, thanks. I wonder if it matters in the transfer case? I almost wonder if the transmission has gl-5 in it now being shifting is a tad notchy. Mainly when cold.

 

I had that problem too!
I replaced the hub, twice, with some a friend had. Apparently they either had the same problem, or developed it quickly. I gave up and put Warn hubs on, and it's not had the trouble return. I'm calling it a done deal, now.
I love these Warn hubs, BTW. Very easy to move, but not so easy they can move by them selves. They also have a very positive "click" when they reach the full rotation point, so there's no question in my little pea-brain that they're locked or unlocked. Double checked the unlock position several times over the months since I put them on, and they are positively unlocked. The half-shafts rotate freely.
I am also certain of the locked position. I can lay a short patch in 4HI. I live on a long, straight, dirt road, so it's easy to do, and see. Makes a ton of dust, too. FUN!
MUCH better over all than when I had the original Aisin hubs on. But that's just me. YMMV

Good luck, all!
Pat☺

 

i’ve rebuilt a few sets of aisin hubs, both the manual and auto hubs. the manual hubs are simpler, and more robust. they are better than the warn hubs for this application. warn makes excellent hubs for the dana 30 on cj5s, and they stand up to the abuse of the straight 6 engine and 34 inch tires.

 

My aisin hubs work great now, I think someone had just assembled the one side incorrectly which made it not able to unlock. I took both sides apart, cleaned, lightly greased and reassembled and they work perfectly now. Nice and easy to turn and everything.

 

My latest thing I’ve noticed, my gas gauge is not accurate, when full it shows about 7/8 of a tank and at 150ish miles now it’s showing dead empty. I know it has probably dam near a half tank being last time I filled it up it showed a half tank (before filling) and held 4 gallons. Someone along the lines has did a gauge swap and it may be the reason it’s like this. My last fuel mpg test I did I got 18mpg which was very impressive to me bing the traffic I drive through daily to get home from work. For example my commute I usually end up under 20mpg in a Toyota Matrix so 18 in the truck I was very surprised. Now I just have to figure out how many gallons the truck holds so I can have a better idea of when to get gas.

 

i’ve filled up on a few occasions with a bit over 17 gallons, but the tank was probably close to empty as far as usable gas in the tank. the oem tank has 17.9 gallons capacity. some 4runners have a low fuel warning light; when it stays on contiually, i find that i have about 1.5 to 2 gallons remaining. that’s for a first-gen 4runner. your 2nd gen might have a difference.

 

2nd gen?? Are you talking 4 runners or pickups? Because I’ve seen a bit of conflicting numbers when it comes to generations, seems I remember seeing somewhere my 1990 4x4 pickup was a 5th gen ?? Actually I’m even seeing 6th gen 89/95

 

eh, i guess i thought your 90 was a 4runner, rather than a pickup. one reason a bunch of us put our vehicle/specs in our signatures, so that others who offer help know what it is you have.

 

Going to do my valve cover gasket, is there a good brand I should choose?? And does it come as a set with the half moons/ and rubber grommets for the bolts up top?? Not sure I can even get genuine right now but if I do will it come as a complete set?? Going to investigate when I get some time but working now so thought I’d ask.

 

Some do, some don't. I'd never try to dissuade someone from going "only OEM," but RockAuto has photos of many of their parts so you can verify what's in the kit.

And this might be the right time for you to start a new thread; someone with more experience than me might be attracted to respond.

 

Where's the pictures of this rig!? That would also help confusion about what exactly you have

I bought a gasket kit off Rockauto last year, and it came with the half moons, but like scope says, the picture will show you everything it came with. I'm pretty sure I paid under $100 for the kit, before shipping. Haven't had an issue with the handful of gaskets I've used, I'm pretty sure the kit was "Engine Tech" brand.