Going to check these out I think I may know what diffs these are though. The ones with the worm gear that can’t drive the spur gear.

 

a well-maintained 22re has no problem with running at 4500 rpm for a long time. mine performed just fine driving i-70 through colorado and other mountainous terrain out west on my 2016 July western trip. no chance to use 5th, and rarely 4th climbing those grades. heck, sometimes i had to use 2nd just to run at 45mph.

 

Wow sounds like it got a serious workout. I could only imagine hills like that in one of these trucks.

 

Well today I was stuck in traffic and while driving slow I kept hearing something. Got home and checked my front axles that were both in unlocked position. Well one was locked so I had to take it all apart and investigate why. Well I learned how to properly assemble my aisin hubs. Went ahead and redid the side that was working as well. Both are lightly greased with fresh grease as well.
So I’ve been driving around with one hub locked for a week or so. Wouldn’t think it would hurt anything???

 

it did. 8500 miles in 32 days, in pretty consistent 90 to 105*F temps (124*F in death valley). no mechanical issues, only needed to replace a burned out headlight in omaha on the way home.

 

I've had 3 22re over the last 22 years and I have next to never gone over 4k rpm. I just drive em to work and the occasional dirt road hunting and camping. No hard crawling or mudding. Freeway gets me to 70mph@3k rpm and thats fine with me.

 

You're fine. The ADD system in the later vehicles does essentially the same thing - disconnects one CV shaft from the diff and lets the other one spin the internals. You didn't hurt a thing.

 

Wow I never knew this and yes that definitely puts my mind at ease.

 

I don’t ever see taking mine to 4K rpm either. There’s something about the 22r I just can’t put my finger on, to me it seems like even 3500 rpm is revving it to the point I was almost thinking my tach was wrong. But I do know 70mph is sitting right about 3k for mine as well. I’m sure I can definitely rev it higher that I am being a lot of times when I shift to 3rd I do it a bit to soon. I find myself usually shifting at 2200/2500 rpms and going into 3rd sometimes that’s just not enough rpms.

 

Hello all the truck has been running great, it idles very smooth possibly a bit low rpms but never misses a beat. I do notice on cold start it idles fairly high until warm, Id say quiet a bit higher than it should. About 2,000 RPMS. Is there a way I could drop it a bit?? In a way that will not affect the warm idle which is a bit low if anything. Normally I’ll let a vehicle warm a few min on a cold start but with this 2,000 rpm cold start I let it idle in gear through the subdivision on my way to the main road which takes a couple of minutes.

 

Adjusting the IACV can lower the high cold idle:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...t-iacv-293778/

 

Awesome thanks very much, this is exactly what I thought I needed to mess with. After reading that thread I’m under the impression after cleaning the valve put it back in the factory position?? I’m not real clear on which way makes idle higher vs lower but from the read all the way in would be eliminating the higher idle which would mean turning out would raise the cold start idle. I’m hoping after cleaning and putting in the factory position it does the trick.
What should I shoot for on the cold start idle rpm?? I’m currently at or above 2,000 rpm and thinking 1,500 rpm would be nice.

 

I checked my cold high idle today, it's about 1250rpm. If you are going to take the IAC valve off, I would also change the rubber gasket (22215-35270) along with the TB gasket (22271-35020 or Felpro 60876). A leaky gasket will cause havoc on the idle. The screws securing the IACV are tight, best way is using an impact driver: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...stions-305617/

 

Cool I bet that’s why mine is idling high at a cold start, probably needs a new gasket. So I’ll grab both of those gaskets, that’s awesome you looked and seen your cold start idle for me. Thanks so much. I have to do my valve cover gasket too. It’s leaking pretty good. Well it looks like it is but I hardly ever see a drop.
I’m interested to find out what grating my truck is, 1990 4x4 I’ve seen there are like 3 different common gearing options 4.10 4.88 I forget the 3rd ratio but think it was in between 4.55ish I’m now wondering what mine is. Is there any quick way to figure it out?

 

Also, there is an O-ring on the idle adjustment screw that can dry up and mess with the idle. Part# is 90301-07001

 

Wow thanks man, very much. This oring on the idle adjustment screw, would it mess with the cold idle only? When warmed up she purrs like a kitten.
Also this idle adjustment screw, are you referring to the one that’s basically like a throttle stop screw?? I’ve not messed with that any but curios if I did need to make a idle adjustment is that where I would do it? The reason I ask is my 01 celica had this same type of throttle stop with a adjustment screw and I tried to use it to raise the idle and it would always work for a day or so then the computer would then idle it back down. Wouldn’t it be the same with the truck or are these trucks old enough where the computer doesn’t control the idle.
About to do some research on my gearing now.

 

Oh and the video on the gear ratio I do know how to do it that way. I’m hoping to fiind there’s a way to figure it out with my vin or door sticker.

 

I was able to figure out my gearing using my identification plate found in drivers door area and I do have 4.10 gearing with the 2 pinion setup. 8” rear pinion 7.5” front W56 manual tranny and RF1A transfer case. Also using my vin I came across my truck was built in Japan.

 

Don't mess with the throttle stop screw, this is the idle adjustment screw. There is an O-ring in there and maybe it leaks when cold until it swells up from heat?

 

Yes that is something I’ll definitely take a look at, thanks very much. I’ve found myself researching hours definitely learning a lot about the truck.