92ehatch

The question comes up. I don't know if it has been done. Don't know if it's necessary. But here goes.

This pertains to the newer style 22re idle control valve located on the throttle body as the older is different. The older is easy and the adjustment is listed in the fsm.

I was bored and had one of these laying around and is similar to a Honda fitv so i figured why not.

First take the cap off of the end of the iacv.





Those notches allow you to unscrew the assembly. I hit this one with pb blaster then used a hammer and small chisel to loosen. I finished with a flat blade screw driver.<br/><br/>Take note of how it looks<br/><br/>Also spring warning. Flying pieces





These are the guts how they come out. Clean these





Inside, clean this





Reassembled. Notice how many clean threads there are. This is the adjustment all the way down. This would render the valve bypassed causing no cold idle. The first pic was factory setting. If you had one that wasn't sealing you can thread it a little further closing the gap and thus helping it seal better. This setting is not recommended

sticksnstones

If you do not put this back very close to the factory setting you will no longer have high idle at start. In fact, after adjusting and leaving it with a lot of threads and reassembling, it idles low at start (500rpm) until fully warmed up as OP noted you have rendered the valve unable to work..Then you will be removing it multiple times trying to get it right.
Mark with a paint pen, measure the distance it's set in, or count threads BEFORE removing/adjusting. Hard earned advice
Thanks to 92ehatch for giving us a reference.