BRAKES BLEEDING ME DRY!!!!!


First of all this site is awesome! I too have fell victim to the (mushy pedal) it all started when I bought the runner 6 years ago. But I just recently realized how bad it really was so first replaced some questionable hard lines to the lspv, and then the m/c. No change in pedal. So new wheel cylinders and shoes with proper adj/ and bleeding, no change.Next on the list brake booster, guess what? no change. I am to the point that I am loosing sleep over this. I also capped off the rear line from the m/c and where the front line tees off from the pass/ side to the lspv and bled the front brakes, the front held good/ better pressure without the rear brakes hooked up. so then i capped the m/c entirely to check pedal press/ and it held good, to me this eliminates the m/c / booster and any adjustments on them that could cause them to act up.So now I priced a lspv from the dealer cause there is no aftermarket, just a little pricey for me to replace on a hunch $290 to $360. So to rule the lspv out I capped the front line at the tee on the pass/side going to the lspv and removed the rear line going to the lspv and ran the rear line directly to the tee/splitter on the rear axel. And nothing changed what a surprise. So I "bench bled" the m/c again but on the truck I noticed that the first half of the m/c strike the rear line of the m/c got pressure but the front did not, second half the stroke front line of the m/c got pressure but not the rear. I do not know if this is the way it should work or not does any one know ?PLEASE ANY IDEAS WELCOME I AM AT MY WITTS END HERE AND IT SOUNDS LIKE I AM NOT ALONE!

 

First of all this site is awesome! I too have fell victim to the (mushy pedal) it all started when I bought the runner 6 years ago. But I just recently realized how bad it really was so first replaced some questionable hard lines to the lspv, and then the m/c. No change in pedal. So new wheel cylinders and shoes with proper adj/ and bleeding, no change.Next on the list brake booster, guess what? no change. I am to the point that I am loosing sleep over this. I also capped off the rear line from the m/c and where the front line tees off from the pass/ side to the lspv and bled the front brakes, the front held good/ better pressure without the rear brakes hooked up. so then i capped the m/c entirely to check pedal press/ and it held good, to me this eliminates the m/c / booster and any adjustments on them that could cause them to act up.So now I priced a lspv from the dealer cause there is no aftermarket, just a little pricey for me to replace on a hunch $290 to $360. So to rule the lspv out I capped the front line at the tee on the pass/side going to the lspv and removed the rear line going to the lspv and ran the rear line directly to the tee/splitter on the rear axel. And nothing changed what a surprise. So I "bench bled" the m/c again but on the truck I noticed that the first half of the m/c strike the rear line of the m/c got pressure but the front did not, second half the stroke front line of the m/c got pressure but not the rear. I do not know if this is the way it should work or not does any one know ?PLEASE ANY IDEAS WELCOME I AM AT MY WITTS END HERE AND IT SOUNDS LIKE I AM NOT ALONE!

 

i know you said you have the rear brakes set up corectly but i had the same problem and thought the mc was going bad but luckily i tryed that first. i adjusted mine out till the drums were a little tight to slide on but once they were on you could hear them draging on the shoes but not really feel any resistance

 

your brake booster diaphragm might have a leak in it.

 

I have the same questions, mine did the same thing when I bench bled the new master!! I dont know what would cause this, Im tempted to buy the aftermarket bigger MC and see it makes a difference... Its scary and frustrating at the same time!