tktmsa

Getting the adrenaline up, and psyching myself up to do a front diff replacement on the 94 3.0 runner w/ADD.

Been reading -up for the last couple months, but as I have experienced, once you get started some times you run into a problem area that can hold you back for a day or two, wondering if I can pick the proverbial brain of the forum on some first hand experiences. Any spot to be aware of or tricks to use to make it go a little more smoothly?
Thanks !
tk

camo31_10.50

why are you replacing the diff?

just the third member...or the ENTIRE differential?

kiyobrown

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...osting-204178/

the thread of the front diff removal (#3, first link) is the one I followed. Never ran into a snag.

Don't let it fall on your head, and give it a good spray of pb blaster before you try unbloting everything.

rogerman

PB blast everything that has bolts. Get a good floor jack or two. You will need a 19mm socket, (2) 17mm combo/box wrenches, jackstands (up to you), and a whole lot of elbow grease. Removing the front cross member can be a real pain and removing the CVs are just as bad. Take your time and pb blast way in advance.

kiyobrown

Come to think of it, I didn't unbolt the crossmember. I just unbolted the driveshaft, then the CV's, then the 3 main bolts and it came right out.

Rogerman, can you have a Loco Moco for me from Cafe 100? I won't get back there til November to have my own.

My Uncle Roy works at the Nihon right down by Banyan Dr and Lihiwai!

tried4x2signN

yeah... the whole diff or stub axle? Or the gears?

diff, see FSM...

Gears, see Zuk at Gearintalls.com... he is THE MAN!


NEXT!

85toyman

iTrader: (2)

Really easy to do. Just unbolt the cv's, and the driveshaft, and the 3 bolts holding it in place. Unplug the wires and vaccum lines and your set. Rogerman is correct on the wrench/socket size and just pull it out. You may have to wiggle it side to side as to get it out of the cv's, just keep working it. Watch your head it is heavy. If you have more questions just pm me and I will walk you thru it.

tried4x2signN

if you do any off roading now's the time for a CV quick disconnect mod.

Some guys drill the holes out and replace with grade 8 hardware...

I'm wondering if you can't tap the axle flange out and just bolt the CV to the flange...

It should work... The only prob I see is the threads pulling out of the bolts but grade 8 and it bolted all the way a round... it shouldnt be a problem...

I lost (it got stolen) a 5:29 True Tracked diff b/c of those damn studs...

toyNG

I found this link incredibly helpful when I did mine http://gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm

I also found it really helpful to use a tranny jack to bring the heavy sucker down, and even more helpful when putting the new one up. I also had to use a bottle jack to get the new diff into correct position...maybe my frame is out of line...but I've heard of others having to do that too.

kiyobrown

Already posted that link. It's the one in the ifs gear thread I was speaking of.

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

i've done this several times, both with and without removing the front crossmember. getting it out is the same difficulty, but getting it back in without the crossmember was much easier. when removing the 3 mounting bolts, d-shaft and CV bolts, remove all of them except for the one on the rear of the diff. that one, just loosen it up and remove it when you're ready to extract the diff, that way you use it to hold that sucker up there while you get everything else situated. as for your 12 CV studs/bolts, i chose to pop them all out and grind off the corrugation/ridges and converted them into straight up bolts. seems to work just fine and now they're not in the way as they can be completely removed.

there really aren't any snags for R/R your IFS diff other than it being really heavy and having an akward weight distribution due to the shape. other potential snags would be having a welded in IFS brace, a seized bolt somewhere, and the possibility of spreading your frame if you remove your crossmember and put the weight of the rig on the suspension - but other than that stuff it's a straightforward deal that can be done solo as long as you eat your wheaties and use your man-hands.

tktmsa

Man, you guys are great! A big thank you. I have located a couple diffs (4.56) gears I need to look at before I purchase, so I'll hopefully get one in the next two weeks - I think I'll get he PB going on the bolts today - pick up a couple more jack stands and borrow a tranny jack.

The diff on there now came with a gaping hole in it, my mechanic said looked like something wanted to get out rather than something hitting it.

kiyobrown

Do you know what gears you have in there now? Why the swap?

tktmsa

Has 4.56 in there now, 4x4 no worky. Thing was messed up; the sleeve used to move around since there could be no oil in the diff, so mech moved the sleeve to the unengaged position, till I could get a new diff.

kiyobrown

Hmm. Did you try messing with your vacuum lines? Could save you some cash if it won't engage bc it won't pull vacuum. Easy way to bypass and test.... Run a vacuum line to the pass side vacuum port, cap the driver side. Jack up the drivers front tire. With the engine running, and in neutral of course, throw the transfer case into 4h and turn the tire in the air. If your driveshaft turns, 4wd worky and you need new vacuum lines.

Worth a shot. Save yourself a couple hours of work and some money for gears.

Junkers88

Kiyo his diff has a hole in it. I think vacuum isn't really the issue any more.

I've done this a few times and I highly recommend removing the studs from the axle flanges and going with grade 8 nuts and bolts. I also recommend opening up the donor third and giving it a good cleaning and inspection. Also a good idea to pull the stub shafts and check the axle output seals (oil seals) for wear. It's easier to do all that stuff with the third on the work bench any way. Oh and you also might want to go ahead and fill it with gear oil while it's on the bench. It won't add much weight and it's a hell of a lot easier than when it's in the truck.

tktmsa

Junkers; good recommedations. Not clear on the studs to nuts and bolts change. Any links?

I'll open the new one to get a peek (open the old one to get a laugh)

What flavor of gear oil are we liking these days?

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

the conversion of studs to nuts are for the 12 (6 on each side) studs that mount your CVs to your diff output flanges. The studs have little ridges/corrugation on the shank and they get pressed into the output flanges of the diff, so they don't move. the issue with this is that there isn't much room, maybe 1/2" of play between the CV and the diff studs when unbolted - this makes it difficult to pull that sucker out of there as these studs can catch on the CV or something else. if you press out all of those 12 studs and just take a bench grinder to the ridges, you end up with smooth shank bolt that is easily removed thus giving you about 1-2" of play between the CV and the diff flange. also a tad easier to R/R your CVs with fully removable hardware. it's not a bad idea to put a little blue loctite on all the mounting hardware for the moving parts (CVs and front d-shaft) when you reinstall everything.

whichever gear oil you get, try to get it in the BIG jug with a pump attachment instead of individual quarts. makes life much easier for getting it into the diff and usually saves you a few bucks.

Kiroshu

Usually front diffs on stock toyotas are bullet proof.... wonder what made you think just cause the 4x4 doesn't work thats its the diffs fault... just curious... Its a 94 so its prob go a solinoid on the diff... Does the 4x4 light come on in the dash? Shifter no connected or broke... Checked hubs? CV axles broke? eh... here i am talking again...

kiyobrown

I'm a jackhole, missed that part of the post. hehehe

Thanks for straightening me out, prez.


At least I'm not the only one.



I was thinking he just had the cover off where the sleeve was. Public schools. sorry.