Other folks who have done elec. fan mods (Taurus mod/flexalite mod) have reported no clearance issues with the stub, in fact they have generally left the disc the clutch attaches to in place. All they have done is either remove the studs or safe them with washers and nylok nuts. Look up "Taurus Fan Mod" there are a few threads on it that will give you some more ideas.

 

i did a test fit this weekend, and ...no dice. I can't get the fan into the engine bay. I don't think i removed enough material from the fan shroud to get it closer to the radiator. when mocking up and measuring for clearance i didn't take into account that the radiator in my truck tilts away from the core support toward the engine, there by reducing clearance for the fan by about an inch.
This is a two row original (OME) radiator, and i am going to change it out for a 3 row for the V6, i hope.
Can anyone tell me if the V6 radiator tilts in toward the engine like the 2 row?

thanks,
RB

 

I've never noticed any tilt in my radiator.

I think it will help a lot with the shroud fitting if you'll pull the radiator from the truck.

 

That is exactly what i did, because i was doing the timing chain also. So i had the radiator out, so i could mock up the shroud. And i didn't realize the tilt to the radiator.

Thanks,
RB

 

So last night i measured an aftermarket V6 radiator and it is about 3.125" thick. It does not tilt away from the core support like the 22re 2row rad does. My fan needs more room to fit so i need to try to remove more material from it.
In other news...
I spoke with coworker, EE(electrical engineer) and asked him to review my drawing, and discussed the wiring i found in the Quest. He told me that the reason Nissan is only using 20amp relays is probably because they are rated for a load much higher then the constant they see while the fan is running. In other words, the high draw from the fan kicking on initially is short, and the relay is designed to handle that draw for a set period of time before failure. So i will be using the Nissan relays(hope my 4Ruster doesn't know) as they were wired into the quest. I also asked about the constant duty solenoid, and he told me that would overkill, it would work, but not needed. As he put it, the relays were designed to handle higher amp draw for a short period of time before failure, and the fan would not draw high amps beyond the point of failure built into the relays.
I am drawing a new diagram, and hope to have it up tonight or tomorrow....Concept 2.

RB

 

Thanks for the info RB

 

Just a progress update
I am having a hell of a time fitting this fan, it's tight in there.
I am guessing most folks have the v6 that do this conversion?
Either way i have a new LARGE radiator, all brass/copper, 3" taller then stock, two rows(as deep as 3!)Had to drill new holes in the mounts to shut the hood, bur other then that it is basically the same width and depth as the stocker. Oh, and the tanks on this thing are huge compared to the stock. Ill get picks up once mounted.
I have trimmed, fitted, trimmed, fitted..repeat 8k times, and now i am ready for the final attachment to the radiator before it is mounted, since the rad and fan need to go in as one piece.

 

does anyone know what cfm this fan pulls? i know the black magic pulls 2800cfm and i cant seem to find out what the villager pulls

 

I am pretty sure it is 2500cfm, but i can't find the link now.

RB

 

ok thats alot better than my autozone crappy fan. and noone is hacing trouble with high rpm low speed over heating?

right now my 16" autozone fan cools fine around town but when i am offroad with higher rpm and lower mph's it starts to everheat because the fan cant handle it

 

A nice tight shroud helps a lot with low speed or stopped cooling, but you have to have a strong fan too. Ford makes (or buys) some very good fans.

 

ok that makes sense, and this villager is a nice strong fan? well im going to the local pull-a-part in about an hour to grab me one so wish me luck!

 

I only have experience with Taurus fans. I do have a Mark VII fan too, but I've never used it. The Mark VII fan has bigger blades but it looks like the exact same motor as the Taurus fans.

 

just picked up a fan from a 95 villager that doesn't have this yellow wire that you all speak of. i 2 plugs, a black wire in one and the other plug has a blue/white and a blue/red. im guessing this fan is a gonner because it shorts no matter how you wire it.

 

ok well the 95 fan was a dud. shorted out bad no matter what speed. anway, luckily i bought the insirance, and was able to get the same fan with the same exact wires off of a 1996 villager. the only difference is that there is only one plug as apposed to two but they are still the same colors. i cut it up and made it fit, added a little foam around the edges, and it fits as though it was suppose to be there. this thing fits soo much better than my black magic did its insane.

the only thing i was wondering is, do i need to seal all 4 sides? or should i leave a side open? i have the bottom side open but with one little slice from the air saw and some heat i can make that radiator fan look like it was always bent like that. haha

i love these simple swaps! thanks for sharing this awesome idea with us!

 

I closed up all 4 sides, so do most factory setups.

 

just put it in. it is kinda close. had to do alot of massaging!

 

Success...well sorta...
Stats:
Hayden 3647 fan controller
Nissan Quest Fan 93-95yrs
Over-sized radiator from performance radiator(brass/copper)

When this fan kicks on it sounds like my A/C is kicking on(engine rpm dive), and this is with the fan just wired on the low speed side. No pics yet, so it officially hasn't happened yet. But dialing in the 3647 was a cinch, but this controller is headed for the shelf.
I ordered a DC Control Unit specifically made for the Taurus 2speed fan. With the Hayden you only get the ability to run one speed, and i am guessing this fan was never intended to run on hi-speed from dead stopped.
On my quest to DIY the entire fan controller i overlooked a crucial element to this setup...the Nisan Quests ECU function in the cooling process. As stated before i scavenged all relays and fuse-able link, and completely overlooked the function of the ECU...DOH!!! In hindsight it really doesn't make a difference because i wasn't going to
cannibalize the Nissan ECU just to figure out how to get it to control fan speed.
Running this fan on low is fine for my 22re, but not for the A/C, unless you are moving. In stop-n-go traffic the A/C doesn't get cold enough in hot weather. When you are moving, on the highway, you notice just how cold the A/C should be when stopped.
That said, you can understand why i need the DC Control unit, turn the low speed fan on, and then ramp up the high speed if needed. I have to admit, the coolest(ha, that wasn't even intentional..coolest) thing is stopping the truck with the fan still running.
I would also suggest replacing the alternator with the suggested CS130, since the engine idles noticeably lower when the fan kicks on. So this is next on the list as well.
I haven't tapped into the ignition line yet....which is a question i have....What wire under the hood did you use for the 12v ignition feed to your efan?

conclusion for E-fan or Electric Fan:
High output alternator
Fan (buy two at a time from the junkyard)
Wire 8awg-10awg-12awg
Misc wire lugs and shrink and solder
DC Control http://www.dccontrol.com/fancontrol.htm (i will report results when installed)

thanks,
RB

 

Just did this whole conversion the other day, hardest part was getting the dang fan to fit! Got it off a 95 Villager and ended up hacking off all four sides so the fan blades are about 1/2 an inch away from the radiator. Works great, no overheating and MUCH quieter. I can actually hear my v6!

 

I definitely want to do this mod to my 1994 4Runner V6, but I have a few questions first. Can I use a fan from a 2004 Mustang instead of a Villager or Taurus fan..?? (It has two wires a red and a black.) Which fan controller should I get...?? I was thinking the Hayden 3654 because I want low and high speeds. And lastly, which relays should I run...?? I have Bosch 20/30, I also have Bosch 30/40 and Bosch 40/50s.

Thanks

RRIND