mercury villager electric fan swap
#81
They both are activated via one temperature input sensor. So you can only pick one temp. It is adjustable though. The low speed turns on first at the temperature set by the little dial, and if the temperature increases 10 degrees higher than the initial low temperature set point then the high speed kicks on. Also the yellow wire can be wired directly to a 12v hot all of the time source and the fans will run until the temperature is down enough to turn the fan off. This will potentially run the battery down though, use that option at your own risk.
#82
Contributing Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: COTKU,Ontario,Canada
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No reason to hook up the elec. fan so it runs until the engine is cooled down after shut off. These things were designed to cool down by self circulation since the belt fan would not run w/ the engine shut off.
#85
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
Posts: 4,222
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
I'm gonna start on this tomorrow. I've got my relay, 10 gauge wire(went big, so I won't have to worry about it), controller, New battery terminals(old ones are kinda nasty/don't connect properly/corroded as a result.
I'll be wiring up the high speed to a toggle switch later. Kragen didn't have a switch that I liked that would handle the load..... all they had were industrial all metal huge switches, or small wimpy switches.
I need to know how I can trim the shroud for the fan. It's too big for the stock mounting locations (it's a new on for a 1993).
Also, I noticed something with the high speed. It seems that you have to have power going to both wires to get the high speed to operate. The low speed will work with either hooked up, but the high speed will only work with both connected. For the toggle switch, should I wire it so I can make that independent of the thermostat controlled low speed? I think that might be handy for off road, or before I go up big hills, etc. Another thing, would back feeding current into the low speed wiring/ relay be bad for it?
I'll be wiring up the high speed to a toggle switch later. Kragen didn't have a switch that I liked that would handle the load..... all they had were industrial all metal huge switches, or small wimpy switches.
I need to know how I can trim the shroud for the fan. It's too big for the stock mounting locations (it's a new on for a 1993).
Also, I noticed something with the high speed. It seems that you have to have power going to both wires to get the high speed to operate. The low speed will work with either hooked up, but the high speed will only work with both connected. For the toggle switch, should I wire it so I can make that independent of the thermostat controlled low speed? I think that might be handy for off road, or before I go up big hills, etc. Another thing, would back feeding current into the low speed wiring/ relay be bad for it?
#86
Contributing Member
Don't know what to say about the high speed wiring needing both wires connected, my 2 speed Taurus fan wasn't like that.
#87
Registered User
Thread Starter
helping my friends!!
for the fitment cut a 1/4 inch from the height of the shroud
and check the fan for cont between both speeds there should be none,the motor is a single mass but is divided in 2 so each one is energized apart
and check the fan for cont between both speeds there should be none,the motor is a single mass but is divided in 2 so each one is energized apart
#88
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
Posts: 4,222
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
I think for the rest of the afternoon, I'll work on the wiring, and maybe get the thermostat hooked up. I still have my original electric fan I can hook up if I need to drive anywhere tonight.
If I can get all the wiring done, I can just focus on the fan fitment/trimming/mounting tomorrow.
#89
Registered User
No, hook up the low power for low speed and the high for the high speed. I don't know how it could hurt, but it isn't necessary to hook up both to achieve high speed.
I just sat the electric fan with shroud inside my stock toyota shroud and cut it to fit inside using a jig saw and/or a sawz-all. Then, I found it necessary to use spacers to set it properly inside the stock shroud to make it stand away from the radiator, and also away from the fan pulley. It works fine.
FYI, I found that it is probably a good idea to set the cut-in temp to be above 200 degrees to make it most efficient. Your thermostat cuts in at 185-190, but you only need cooling at a higher temp. With the higher cut-in temp, you can let the cool, normal outside temps cool the engine without need of the electrical fan. I am talking about freeway speeds in cooler temps.
I just sat the electric fan with shroud inside my stock toyota shroud and cut it to fit inside using a jig saw and/or a sawz-all. Then, I found it necessary to use spacers to set it properly inside the stock shroud to make it stand away from the radiator, and also away from the fan pulley. It works fine.
FYI, I found that it is probably a good idea to set the cut-in temp to be above 200 degrees to make it most efficient. Your thermostat cuts in at 185-190, but you only need cooling at a higher temp. With the higher cut-in temp, you can let the cool, normal outside temps cool the engine without need of the electrical fan. I am talking about freeway speeds in cooler temps.
Last edited by DJ99; 02-14-2010 at 03:37 PM.
#90
Contributing Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Lake County, CA/Sacramento
Posts: 4,222
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
No, hook up the low power for low speed and the high for the high speed. I don't know how it could hurt, but it isn't necessary to hook up both to achieve high speed.
I just sat the electric fan with shroud inside my stock toyota shroud and cut it to fit inside using a jig saw and/or a sawz-all. Then, I found it necessary to use spacers to set it properly inside the stock shroud to make it stand away from the radiator, and also away from the fan pulley. It works fine.
FYI, I found that it is probably a good idea to set the cut-in temp to be above 200 degrees to make it most efficient. Your thermostat cuts in at 185-190, but you only need cooling at a higher temp. With the higher cut-in temp, you can let the cool, normal outside temps cool the engine without need of the electrical fan. I am talking about freeway speeds in cooler temps.
I just sat the electric fan with shroud inside my stock toyota shroud and cut it to fit inside using a jig saw and/or a sawz-all. Then, I found it necessary to use spacers to set it properly inside the stock shroud to make it stand away from the radiator, and also away from the fan pulley. It works fine.
FYI, I found that it is probably a good idea to set the cut-in temp to be above 200 degrees to make it most efficient. Your thermostat cuts in at 185-190, but you only need cooling at a higher temp. With the higher cut-in temp, you can let the cool, normal outside temps cool the engine without need of the electrical fan. I am talking about freeway speeds in cooler temps.
I got around to replacing my battery terminals, and wiring up the main power to the relay(with a fuse). I was a little confused with the wiring diagram, and controller wiring, but I figured it out, and I will wire that all up tomorrow.
I'm not going to wire up the high speed toggle switch up right away, I just want to know exactly how before hand.
I will hopefully have this all done by tomorrow night.
I'm putting the probe inside the radiator fins, since I don't trust the hose not to leak with the probe inside it.
#92
Contributing Member
...I hooked up either wire (white, and yellow) up to a battery, and neither would produce the high speed. Both powered the fan on low speed. That's why I'm wondering if I'm going to need to somehow connect the high speed up with the low speed so I can get the high speed to work.....
#94
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Clackamas, Oregon
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#96
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Clackamas, Oregon
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well try it again for a good solid 30 seconds, and see if the wire your using to power it its super hot. Thats one way of telling if your wire size is way to small. Thats the "I don't know crap about electrical, but i know that cant be good"
#97
Ran my first full tank with the elec. fan. Picked up an easy 50 miles without the manual fan (engine brake). I was getting about 240~250 miles from a full tank of gas with about 80/20 hwy/city. Now with the same combo of hwy/city I'm getting 300+/- miles from a full tank of gas. Pretty impressive IMO, definitely more of a pleasure to drive with out the whurring and lag from the fan being engaged. Elec. fan is working perfectly.
The following users liked this post:
runnermedic (11-22-2010)
#98
Registered User
eFan Schematic DIY
I have just about everything for this swap ready to go, except for a temperature probe/switch. I don't really care if it's adjustable, i would actually prefer a fixed 185*, i understand these are more reliable. What temp probe (switch) has good user experience?
I have included a schematic to help those wanting to install a switch and light. Please let me know if you see anything wrong(i know i am not drawing the DPDT switch correctly) so i can fix it and update this post so we don't have 11ty billion versions floating around the internets.
Efan Schematic
RB
I have included a schematic to help those wanting to install a switch and light. Please let me know if you see anything wrong(i know i am not drawing the DPDT switch correctly) so i can fix it and update this post so we don't have 11ty billion versions floating around the internets.
Efan Schematic
RB
Last edited by RBX; 04-14-2010 at 07:49 AM. Reason: added: large scale link to read the text
#99
Registered User
I would highly recommend you go with an adjustable thermostat. The reason for this is that 185 is way too low of a cut-in temp. That's the temperature that your thermostat opens, but your fan shouldn't come on until something like 195-200. At a 185 cut-in, the fan will be running constantly after warm up, even on the freeway, where its not running could be doing the most good. When the fan is running, it is putting a drag on your alternator and your mileage, and that defeats the purpose of the fan swap.
I accomplished this by adding a "real" water temperature gauge and a fan engaged indicator lights (low & high speed) inside the cab, so I could know exactly what the fan was doing. The probe is inside the upper radiator hose. Water temps mostly stay under 200F and the low fan only comes on when climbing hills. High speed always comes on when running the air conditioning. So far, in these cooler temps (< 60F) the fan has not come on while on the freeway.
I accomplished this by adding a "real" water temperature gauge and a fan engaged indicator lights (low & high speed) inside the cab, so I could know exactly what the fan was doing. The probe is inside the upper radiator hose. Water temps mostly stay under 200F and the low fan only comes on when climbing hills. High speed always comes on when running the air conditioning. So far, in these cooler temps (< 60F) the fan has not come on while on the freeway.