or you could buy this like I did: http://www.haydenauto.com/New%20Prod...r/Content.aspx

 

I thought the thermostat in the 22re kicks on at 192*....factory thermostat?
But i understand your explaination for the adjustable T-stat and fan running too much. Think i am going to use the wife's digital meat thermometer to get the coolant temp dialed in. Water temp gauge is on the menu,. but not drawn.


Full size eFan Schematic

I looked at the Hayden adjustable controller, but found a few posts that claimed they had replaced a few after the burned up....Seafairrinman(sp?) said he is running a fixed temp sensor... probe... because of the adjustable failing...IIRC.

thanks for the info, hopefully you all can see the diagram better now and give me some work to do.

Thanks,
RB

 

Using the wife's meat thermometer?
IDK dude... that could land you in Honey do jail for a long long time...

to say nothing of the fact it's not sanitary...

just sayin'

 

Thanks that's a little better, at least.

As far as the adjustable temp controller, I'd say its very helpful for dialing in the system. What temp all depends on where you place the sensor and what t-stat you have. I don't know about the 22re but the V6s have a 180* F OEM t-stat placed in the return line from the radiator. My 5VZ I'm using a 160* F T-stat.

 

the Meat thermometer....i'll actually ask her first....she has two....yes i would get a red-ass for that one. Last time she 'donated' a stainless-steel colander for a bike project!!
thanks for the concern

So adjustable it is. Now it is onto trimming the 95 Nissan Quest fan shroud.

thanks again for the tips folks

RB

 

glad to see that this mod is still going...and that it's getting easier and easier seems...can't wait to get a little time and cash and will power to do this lol

 

That would be the Hayden 3654. Summit Racing and others have them. They are a nice alternative to a lot of part sourcing and figuring!

 

Take note of the relay rating on those controllers to make sure they don't melt on you over time. Notice RBX has used 30-40 amps for the low speed side and 70- (something) amps on the high side. I still can barely read his print with my old goat eyes. RBX have you found a good source for those high amp relays?

 

I am actually planning on using a Napa ST85 constant duty solenoid, but i think that is just a single pole. In short, no not yet, when i do ill get it posted up.
A bit off track...but...
When i pulled the Quest efan, i scavenged all the relays and harness connections along with the 60amp fusable link. The interesting thing about the relays were that there are three, and they all have identical part numbers. However, they are labeled on the fuse block lid, Fan-Hi(twice), and Fan Lo(once). Perhaps this setup is cascading the relays in a different way then my drawing, or they are all 70+amps each. I will try to look up the part number when i get home to see exactly what these relays are rated at.
If anyone was interested in purchasing relays new, i usually get my stuff from digikey.com, or mouser.com since they usually have a helpful customer service rep to answer questions.
i will redo my drawing with larger text, for the old and senile. J/K when i drew it in AutoCAD i didn't take into consideration posting it up here. You could also right-click on the image link and select 'Save Image(orLink) As' so you can download it and view the diagram in all its hi-res splender.
BTW, i just updated the Post with the Schematic, and new links for your viewing pleasure.

RB

 

Got mine from Summit, has been working like a champ.

 

High or low speed fan? What fan?

 

the 3654 is rated for 50amps, i am trying to find the 'definitive' amp draw on the Merc/Nissan fan we are discussing here.
Does the Hayden 3654 Fan Controller allow for a switch and fan to be integrated without dismantling the board the relays are mounted on?

 

2-speed fan from a '95 Mercury Villager. Turns low-speed on at 185* and high-speed comes on at 195*. It is adjustable too. Also has a signal wire for A/C operation. You tie it into the A/C power clutch wire on the compressor, each time the compressor is running the fan will be turned on as well. Can't beat it.

 

I checked the Relays i scavenged from the Quest.
As mentioned before, there are 3 relays all with the part no. 25230 0B000 12v 4Z1N ( that is all the printing on the Nissan relay).
This is 4 leg relay, and from the looks of the wiring, it seems that the two hi-speed relays are parrelled from the 65amp fusable link. can anyone shed some light on why you would parrallel relays? My immediate guess would be to decrease load on initial draw.
I will try to draw this up, and post up how the quest fan was wired, unless someone can find a factory diagram....i haven't been able too.

RB

 

Its not a good idea to use parallel relays to double up current capacity. Better to just use a bigger relay.

I quote from this link: http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/io/io_5.html

I still think the best fan controller is a soft start, variable speed controller like the DCC units: http://www.dccontrol.com/index.htm

 

Makes sense, if this is true i doubt Nissan engineers would do this, maybe i missed something in the wiring when i defiled the Quest.
I found this on the interwebs....this relay is a 20a???

Relay Nissan 4pin 12 volt 20amp Nissan 4pin Relay
Nissan OEM Vehicle
25230-C9970, 25230-0B000, 25230-C9980, 25230-C9965

The DC controller does seem decent, but i am running out of money and need to get this rig on the road. I also like learning and electrical relays are definitely a deficiency in my tool box.

thanks for the help.

 

I think one of the Hi relays is on the AC circuit and the other is tied to the temp sensor... If the sensor reads a hi temp condition it triggers the low speed relay... if temp does not drop it triggers the hi speed relay, if you select the AC on the high speed is triggered from the other HS relay... I remember I asked a nissan tech about this a few mos ago and I think that was the answer. I can try and check with the dealer next week to confirm... the quest is an old model and the dealer said they have no tech mans. on hand anymore i had to talk to one of their old hands who'd been around back then and pick his brain about them....

 

question for those that have done this swap:
Did you clearance the fan shaft on the water pump after the mecanical fan was deleted from the system to provide more working room?
OR
Why would grinding down the shaft be a bad idea?

thanks,
RB

 

Grinding might be a bad idea if you get the shaft too hot it could damage the bearing or seal. If you do it, try to limit the temps, allow cooling time between cutting/grinding, use a heat sink, wet towel or something.

I didn't clearance it, but I don't have a 22re either.

 

Yeah, i really don't want to have to replace my water pump sooner then necessary if i heat the bearing beyond its tolerance so i think i will be leaving it alone. that nub is pretty stout, and even though i was planning to cut most of the material off, i would finish it with grinding....either it is going to generate alot of heat on the bearing.