I just received and installed my Delta Current Control Fan Controller (i think the new model # is FK35, the 2sp cheapest). The reason i switched to this controller is because i had a Hayden 3647, so i could only run one speed on my fan, which was fine for the radiator, but not for the A/C in stop and go summer heat.
This controller is fantastic, and ramps up the speed on the fan, so it isn't a hard start like the Hayden units putting a tremendous initial draw on my wimpy stock alternator (soon to be a cs-130). Mostly the low speed runs, until the temp in the coolant doesn't drop enough and then the high speed kicks in. The low speed on the fan isn't too bad, but the high speed sounds like it will suck the grill thru the radiator.
I have no idea whether you can use a mustang fan, but i know lots of mustang guys use the villager/tarus fans because they have two speeds(3 wires...hi-lo-ground).

RB

P.S. Shipping and processing (about 3 weeks) isn't the fastest with the DCC unit, be patient it is a quality device.

 

I had this same initial idea, and drew up my complete wire diagram...hell, i even went as far as to take all the relays from the Quest i got the fan out of. The relays in the Quest were ALL 20amps, however i understand that the relays only need to withstand the initial 75amp draw of the fan, then 20amps. I am not an electrical engineer but i try to learn and do what i can, but i soon realized that the Quest/Taurus fan needed more then relays to function as it did stock....the ECU. Without the ECU the fan will not switch the low speed current off when the hi speed kicks on, if both lines are energized you will burn up the fan. For me to figure out how to:
Turn the fan on low when coolant reached operating temp, but turn off the low when the A/C was on to activate the high speed was worth my $80 to buy the proper controller....just my two cents.

RB

 

RBX, Which DC Controller did you buy, the 2SP?? or the FK50P?? The 2SP is doable at $79.95 but the FK50P is a little out of my price range at this time.

Also, I was thinking of going with the Hayden 3654 controller because it's a two speed controller. Whether or not it shuts off when the high side kicks in I don't know. I wasn't able to find that info online yet.

Thanks
RRIND

 

im trying to find my parts tomorrow. and hope to performed this set up on my 95 4runner also. i would also like to see pics on the truck already does any 1 have some pics.

 

I used the 2sp controller from DCC, the other units just have more added functionality I don't need. Plus the DCC unit ramps up fan speed to avoid the crazy initial draw on the altenator/battery. I don't think the Hayden 3654 has an A/C switch.
Pix, I don't have any but I will try to snap some this afternoon. Been meaning to anyhow.

 

today me and my bro head out to find some fans at a local yard. every van found are missing the fans like crazy. but did found one in good condition. took that bad boi out fast. oh yea it was like 90 dergrees outside also. then took off a taurus off to do my bros ae86 also. both of us are doing the converion but got to save some $ for the harness kit / relay kit. now.

 

I just did this swap last weekend and I learned something very important - radiator channels are FRAGILE! In test fitting I managed to pop a pin-hole in the radiator and had to replace it. Oh, one more note: the stock replacement from NAPA was the cheapest I could find but the mounting holes are in the wrong place. I had to drill new ones about an inch higher so the hood would close...

Fitment with a 22re is difficult as others have been finding out. The fan motor is pretty chunky. Inside of the shroud the motor has a little stub shaft and retainer that stick out. I found that these need to be positioned about 1/4" to 1/2" from the radiator fins so that the water pump shaft has enough clearance from the back of the fan. I opted to build side brackets like O Holy P did. However, I also put four 4" long #8 bolts through the radiator with fender washers and neoprene washers for cushioning. I put nylon spacers between the shroud and the radiator to eliminate any flexing of the shroud to discourage the little stub shaft from slicing into the radiator. I also trimmed the shroud ALOT, such that it was nearly flat, only about 1/4" of the curved portion remained. As far as sealing the perimeter I found that PVC closed-cell foam tape and duct tape did pretty well.

I have a question for everyone about the thermostat adjustment. I have my permanent thermocouple positioned about halfway vertically and maybe 1-2" horizontally toward the middle from the upper hose inlet. Is it best to adjust the thermostat to kick on when the water inlet temp reaches about 195*F? I am considering measuring this with another thermocouple temporarily placed very close to the inlet and adjusting the thermostat accordingly.

 

http://www.dccontrol.com/2sp.pdf
This is the install sheet for the DCC Fan Controller, it explains the location of the sensor, however, the DCC temp sensor is not like the Hayden. When my Hayden was installed i located it right above the return(bottom radiator hose) since that seemed to be the general consensus.
But, after reading lots more stuff, some folks claim that the probe should go at the supply side because this allows the more accurate measurement of engine fluid temperature....IDK.

Once i installed the DCC 2sp fan controller, and located the probe as per their directions. the system is rock solid...i can sit in 100* traffic for days, temperature on the truck never changes, and the A/C is icey. The other nice thing about the more expensive(reliability has been an issue with the Haydens) fan controller from DC Control is that it will ramp-up the fan speed so your alternator doesn't take such a hit at turn on. I haven't replaced my alternator yet with the CS-130.

hope that helps.
RB
RB

 

Cool, thanks for the input. I ended up tuning it with the help of another thermocouple as I described in my last post. Since the tstat opens around 195 I set the fan to begin running when the inlet temp reaches about 200. That way on the highway when the tstat dumps hot coolant the convection from highway speed can get a chance to cool it before the fan kicks on.

 

I don't have too much experience with electrical stuff, but couldn't you wire up a capacitor(like the kind you use for audio/subs) so that would take most(if not all) the initial amp spike caused by startup?

 

If you put the capacitor on the same side of the switch as the fan, that would actually make it worse.

If you put the capacitor on the battery side of the switch, I doubt it would assist at all.

Capacitors in car stereo installs are used to compensate for crappy wiring/batteries/alternators.

 

how did you wire this controller for a 2 speed fan?

 

Check out the diagram in post #6 of this thread.

 

So I also need the relays?

 

Subscribed!!

 

Only if you want it to work with two speeds like in the diagram. If you want to just get it working quick and easy, just hook up the high speed side to the thermostat, and it will work fine.

 

any one find a good source for high amp relays?

 

I would highly recommend the dcc control I listed in my post as it ramps up the amp draw on the fan and is specifically designed for these fans.

 

a bit of a thread jack...but....
Anyone try a 3vz alternator from a 92-96 Camry? I am in need of doing some engine work to the project rig, and figured i would through a higher output alternator on her while i had access. I have read the threads about the GM swap, but i am more interested in the Camry.

Thanks

 

RBX have you thought about getting a rebuild stock alt with higher out put